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Think I Need an Alternator, Please Help.

1stgear

Member
89
0
6
Location
Thomasville/GA
I was driving my m1008 back from lunch last week and the passenger side alt belt went south. Prior to breaking, I smelled burning rubber so I thought the alt locked up. Took the truck home and checked the alternator - the pulley spun like a champ.

Put a new alt belt on Monday night. Drove the truck on Tuesday and was going home and I smell burning rubber again. This time the belt didn't break but the #2 alternator light won't go out. Pulley is spinning freely. I ASSUME it means a new alternator for me.

Two questions >

*Can an alternator lock up and then spin again? I find that hard to believe, but that has to be what happened.

*Where can I get an alternator for my truck? If I take my core in is this something NAPA, Autozone, or some other parts store can get. Or is the alternator a special one just for the MVs?

Thanks for any help!!
 

devilman96

New member
2,056
16
0
Location
Boca Raton, FL
It’s possible to have a seizure and then spin freely again after cooling down, ether a bearing is going out or part of the winding is coming apart inside.

You will not find these at Napa / AutoZone / etc as you need an isolated ground for the 24V; however you can get one built locally at a auto electric shop. Or if you need I have them in stock with no core charge.

http://www.odiron.com/store/index.php?cPath=17_39
 

CARNAC

The Envelope Please.
Supporting Vendor
8,277
617
113
Location
Corpus Christi, TX
I have had this happen also right after putting my truck back on the road.

Highly suggest NOT going to NAPA. The generator is around $200!!!!!! Pull it off and take it to a good rebuild shop in your area. I was really impressed with my rebuild. They cleaned it in some kinda machine and it looked like a new one. BOTH (I said screw it and bought a second gen out of a junker and had it rebuilt) are running like champs and I have less than $100 into both of them. Actually now have two other gen's that I am getting rebuilt for a potential future second CUCV.

Would always suggest having at least one spare around also.

Am now looking at having a spare starter also. Gonna get a junker and have it rebuilt.

Trick is finding a good rebuild shop. For that you will have to ask around your area. Good luck.
 

FSBruva

New member
629
1
0
Location
Marietta, GA
Don't know how often you get up to the Atlanta area, 1stGear, but I recently had my deuce alternator worked on at a shop up here. They do a lot of contracted rebuild work for Fort Gillem's trucks, so they usually have the parts on hand, and charge a fair price for labor. Check out C & S Auto Electric in Mabelton, GA.

Matt
 

1stgear

Member
89
0
6
Location
Thomasville/GA
Thanks for the fast replies.

I'm a long way from ATL, however I might send my shot-out alt up there and get it re-built if that's something that they'll do.

Unfortunately, there's no place around here that can re-build alternators or anything like that. Very small town.

I ordered one from OD IRON as the price seemed very reasonable. It shouldn't take too long to get here since it's coming from Boca and I'm in deep South Georgia.

Thanks again.
 
190
0
16
Location
Albuquerque NM
The only thing that keeps me from getting a gear reduction starter is my lingering suspicion that they are more prone to overheat in extended cranking. I have no proof one way or the other.

Also, when I needed to replace mine, the only thing NAPA had in stock was the non-reduction type.
 

mangus580

New member
6,010
282
0
Location
Western NY
thedeliverator said:
The only thing that keeps me from getting a gear reduction starter is my lingering suspicion that they are more prone to overheat in extended cranking.
Why would you think this? A gear reduction starter doesn't work nearly is hard, therefore should be LESS prone to overheat.

There is a reason that GM switched to the gear reduction on all the 6.5 engines.
 

M725

Member
245
1
18
Location
Ellicott City Maryland
mangus580 said:
thedeliverator said:
The only thing that keeps me from getting a gear reduction starter is my lingering suspicion that they are more prone to overheat in extended cranking.
Why would you think this? A gear reduction starter doesn't work nearly is hard, therefore should be LESS prone to overheat.

There is a reason that GM switched to the gear reduction on all the 6.5 engines.
And you shouldn't be cranking the starter for extend periods with out a cool down between tries anyway.
 
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