To beadlock or run-flat or not to beadlock or run-flat...That is my question...

[dronsen]

Hopefully some of you can enlighten me (even more)...I've read a lot here about specific application of beadlocks and run-flats, how to install, etc., but I have not satisfied my lack of understanding as to when SS members choose to use or not use either. Assuming I purchase wheels with or without, does anyone have advice about when I would want (or not want) one or the other? I am looking for input with regards to driving conditions, aluminum vs. steel, balancing issues, CTIS interface, highway vs. rock crawling, weight vs. ??, etc.

I think I've only seen pix of one style beadlock and two styles of run-flats - pix below - identification would be helpful. Interested also in hearing pros/cons on the different styles.

Is there any logic as to which wheels always come with which system (i.e. do all aluminum wheels (mounted from auction sites) always come with run-flat style "X") (any wheels always come with bead locks)? Can run-flats be combined with bead locks?

Thanks for putting up with my questions - Looking forward to hearing your feedback.

Thanks,

Dave
View attachment 643651View attachment 643652View attachment 643653View attachment 643654

 

[tobyS]

Dave, the attachments don't seem to work, at least for me. I have many of the same questions and hope you get good replies by the people with more experience.

I think it all depends on your primary use for the vehicle. Since most civilian uses are on the road, that would seem to rule out run flats.

 

[dronsen]

Here are pix - not sure why they didn't load properly

 

[droprat]

I recently ran my XZL 14.00's with runflats and dropped air pressure down to 10psi for sand driving. One tire fell jus below 8psi and went flat almost lost bead. I raised psi to 12-15 psi and all tires held air with no further issues.

 

[Smike740]

I am lookng forward to the more experienced replies.
From my limited experience with my 94 M1078, my truck originally had the bead locks in the bottom most picture. The MRAP replacement tires and rims I purchased had the run flats pictured in the upper right of your post. I went ahead and left them in when I installed them on my truck. I haven't driven it enough to say if they cause any problem, so far they are ok. My opinion is you should at least run the beadlocks if you plan to air down the tires at all with CTIS to make sure the bead stays seated.

 

[NDT]

1. FMTVs never had runflats, they have beadlocks (picture shows one on top of boxes)
2. The first generation Caiman MRAP, based on the MTV chassis, used the runflat in the picture with the little girl.
3. The first generation Caiman MRAP used the same wheel as the FMTV, then later the aluminum wheel.


The runflat in the picture with the little girl is a nightmare to remove. Plan on an hour with a Sawzall for each one.

 

[dronsen]

I found this video: http://ronsen.us/2ckwnto - so getting the one-piece off of the wheel is not the issue - getting it out of the tire is? Is the bolt-together type a later generation (presumably due to these issues)?

 

[NDT]

I found this video: http://ronsen.us/2ckwnto - so getting the one-piece off of the wheel is not the issue - getting it out of the tire is? Is the bolt-together type a later generation (presumably due to these issues)?

The video is a HMMWV 37". That method does not work with the runflat little girl picture. Dismounting the tire/runflat from the wheel is never an issue, regardless of whether there is a runflat or beadlock inside.

Folks typically want to get rid of runflats to reduce unsprung weight. They are heavy.

 

[dronsen]

Bump