Tranny inspect

[ldmack3]

Working my winter project, doing the inside of the cab, and I want to pop the top off of my tranny for a visual. Looks pretty straight forward and simple.
Clean it off good, put shifter in neutral, pull 8 bolts, lift off and throw away gasket. Good visual and magnet check.
Reassembly is making sure forks go in proper place.

Any tricks I need to be aware of or critical areas to inspect?

 

[cbrTodd]

Working my winter project, doing the inside of the cab, and I want to pop the top off of my tranny for a visual. Looks pretty straight forward and simple.
Clean it off good, put shifter in neutral, pull 8 bolts, lift off and throw away gasket. Good visual and magnet check.
Reassembly is making sure forks go in proper place.

Any tricks I need to be aware of or critical areas to inspect?

From doing it a while back, there was no trick to it, it was straight forward like you expected it to be. It wasn't hard to get all the shift forks to line up for reassembly.

As far as things to inspect, check all the gears for chipped teeth, and be aware that the rounded edges of the unsynchronized first and reverse gears may have some minor chips from not waiting until things stop spinning before trying to engage them. The one in my truck, my spare, and my parts unit all do. Not a big deal as long as the damage is small.

Check the teeth on the engagement collars for the synchros to make sure they aren't heavily worn. If you have a gear that is hard to mesh, that could be the culprit - #4 had half the teeth worn off on mine. This may involve needing to push the shift collars forward or back, just return them to center before reassembly. Make sure there isn't any slop between the input shaft and the main shaft where the roller bearings go - any looseness there could indicate a problem with those rollers. Check to make sure that the gears that spin on the main shaft don't have too much play. Check that the bearings spin smoothly without slop on everything when you have the transfer case in neutral and the clutch pressed in.

Make sure the pads on the shift forks aren't bent or worn too badly. Make sure all the set screws holding the shift fork parts are still safety wired. If all that checks out, short of measuring anything for wear / tolerances or taking it further apart, it should be good to put back together with a new gasket and rock on.

If you do find a worn out synchro or something wrong with the main shaft or components on it, that can all be done without removing the transmission from the truck, you just have to remove the jack shaft to the transfer case and the associated seal housing and output shaft bearing. I replaced that synchro in an afternoon and had it buttoned up the same day.

 

[ldmack3]

Ok here is what I see with a quick visual.
Chipped and worn teeth on the 1st/reverse gear, looks like rust where the shift fork goes, some wear on shift forks and again what looks like rust.
Based on the attached should I replace the chipped gear and can this be done wo removing the tranny. I really don't want to remove the tranny.
Need some advice from those that have been here before.
Thanks in advance.

 

[cbrTodd]

That chipped gear isn't great but probably also not going to hurt anything either. Looks like damage from forcing it in gear instead of being patient... by someone in the last 50 years, who knows when. It can be replaced without removing the trans if you really wanted to, but I personally would just run it.

 

[ldmack3]

That chipped gear isn't great but probably also not going to hurt anything either. Looks like damage from forcing it in gear instead of being patient... by someone in the last 50 years, who knows when. It can be replaced without removing the trans if you really wanted to, but I personally would just run it.

Whew!
Clean up/dress out or leave alone?
What about wear on forks and rust? No biggie?

 

[cbrTodd]

In case it wasn't clear already, just wanted to note that I am not an expert on these, I have just taken a few apart and successfully put them back together on my own stuff.

With that being said, I would be concerned about debris getting in the bearings if you tried to dress anything up in place. If you were going to remove it to do that, then you might as well just replace it. For that reason I personally would leave it alone.

The rust I can see is on non functional areas of things, so I wouldn't bother with it. That's the effects of long periods of sitting still with a little humidity in the air. As far as the shift pads go, I can't see much from the pictures on my phone, sorry. The TM for the transmission is TM9-2520-246-34-1 and it should have measurements of the pads in there somewhere. But in all reality, as long as they aren't badly grooved and it shifted fine before disassembly, it's probably 'good enough'.

 

[ldmack3]

This is my first so any info is more than I had.
Thanks much.

 

[gringeltaube]

Based on the attached should I replace the chipped gear and can this be done wo removing the tranny.

With that being said, I would be concerned about debris getting in the bearings if you tried to dress anything up in place. If you were going to remove it to do that, then you might as well just replace it. For that reason I personally would leave it alone.

That large gear isn't overly expensive, if you wanted a NOS replacement - for peace of mind, here...
And yes, it can be changed with the transmission in place.

What you really should do is drain that thing, take a flashlight and inspect both of the small gears, countershaft and idler gear, also.

 

[ldmack3]

I did a quick look, but its 27 outside so tomorrow and Monday should be in the 40s.

 

[ldmack3]

Follow up on tranny question. Finally got around to changing the fluid, haven't driven it since I found the chipped gears. After draining stuck my most sensitive finger in the drain and came out with 2 pieces. One is a pretty good chunk, IMO.
Thoughts?

 

[gringeltaube]

You will have to inspect these two gears...

 

[davidb56]

that looks almost like a piece of casting. check around for a broken piece and dont forget to inspect the cover too. It would be nice to know where it came from.

 

[ldmack3]

I just got everything back together including seats and interior.
When I had the top off I posted pics of the only damage I could see moving the gears as much as possible.
I’m REALLY hesitant to rip it all out again unless there is big risk of really damaging something.

The carpet was strategically/selectively spot glued to allow space for water drainage. Additionally uphill pieces overlap downhill pieces (usually) to help with the water shed. Access to tunnel bolts were part of the plan.

The additional pics indicate, I think, that the pieces are from a tooth. I will probably drive it a little until warmer weather. Really tired of freezing my bolts off.

gringel
The gears mentioned. Pulling just the top off doesn't provide a good inspection of them. Do both forward and aft tunnels need to be removed to pull that shaft with the first/reverse gear? Obviously, the tranny would have to be removed to replace.

Appreciate the input from all.

 

[ldmack3]

PS:
In the second photo does the direction of the machine marks angle (90degrees) relative to the tooth indicate this is likely a spur gear as opposed to helical?

 

[ldmack3]

With the cost of diesel, I'll be going into my tranny for the gear repair synchro replacement.

I want to order as many parts as possible before tearing it down. What else other than the 2/3 synchro and gaskets should I plan on replacing? Can't tell what else is needed until disassembly but I want to be ready as much as possible going in.