mattavism
New member
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- Location
- Andersonville, TN
I purchased a 1986 M1008 a couple months back that was not running properly. Previous owner was repeatedly using ether to start, etc. I have been poring over the forum for weeks now, replaced all battery cables, bypassed the resistor, completed the doghead relay, upgraded the GP module, replaced glow plugs, etc. The truck starts, runs, etc, though it needs a new driver's side alternator - but that's a separate issue. The topic at hand is that I haven't driven it anywhere other than around the block as I have no headlights, signals, brake lights, parking lights, etc. ***Edited to add blackout switch is in "Service On" position and should not be affecting this issue to my understanding***
I am very much a new DIY mechanic, but I have been doing an incredible amount of research, reviewed the headlight circuit thread multiple times, referenced fuse box pictures, etc. I have gone ahead and replaced all front/rear bulbs, cleaned ground points, taken apart, cleaned and regreased pigtails, etc. That was all good preventative maintenance, but didn't seem to solve the issue. I then went and replaced all fuses on the fuse block, still no dice, but I did notice some non stock wiring around the fuse block and took it apart as you will see in the pictures. It appears that the the 3-RED-2G headlight wire was cut and bypassed the fuse block with an inline fuse. I'm not sure if some of the damage you can see on the left side of the fuse block where that fuse should be is a result of heat damage, or other. What are my options at this point? 1) Replace this wire connection (as the wire is a bit frayed), but keep as an in-line fuse and plug into one of the 12v unused spots? If so, does this cause an issue given the original jumper wire to the stoplight fuse? 2) Rebuild the end of the wire with a female connector to take the stock 30V fuse and then try to create a wire jumper on the other side to the stoplight fuse as per Warthog's pic 3 from the headlight circuit thread (borrowed and re-attached here for ease of reference)? 3) Other ideas?
I welcome your thoughts wise sages of the CUCV. Please feel free to over-explain, I'm new and very much still learning. Alternatively, if there are any experienced CUCV owners/mechanics in the Knoxville area, I would be happy to trade beer and food for a bit of your advice and wisdom in person.
I am very much a new DIY mechanic, but I have been doing an incredible amount of research, reviewed the headlight circuit thread multiple times, referenced fuse box pictures, etc. I have gone ahead and replaced all front/rear bulbs, cleaned ground points, taken apart, cleaned and regreased pigtails, etc. That was all good preventative maintenance, but didn't seem to solve the issue. I then went and replaced all fuses on the fuse block, still no dice, but I did notice some non stock wiring around the fuse block and took it apart as you will see in the pictures. It appears that the the 3-RED-2G headlight wire was cut and bypassed the fuse block with an inline fuse. I'm not sure if some of the damage you can see on the left side of the fuse block where that fuse should be is a result of heat damage, or other. What are my options at this point? 1) Replace this wire connection (as the wire is a bit frayed), but keep as an in-line fuse and plug into one of the 12v unused spots? If so, does this cause an issue given the original jumper wire to the stoplight fuse? 2) Rebuild the end of the wire with a female connector to take the stock 30V fuse and then try to create a wire jumper on the other side to the stoplight fuse as per Warthog's pic 3 from the headlight circuit thread (borrowed and re-attached here for ease of reference)? 3) Other ideas?
I welcome your thoughts wise sages of the CUCV. Please feel free to over-explain, I'm new and very much still learning. Alternatively, if there are any experienced CUCV owners/mechanics in the Knoxville area, I would be happy to trade beer and food for a bit of your advice and wisdom in person.
