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Upper ball joint removal

Kaz

New member
31
1
0
Location
Wichita area, KS
Anyone got advice on removing the front upper ball joints? I've got one stuck and my air hammer just scarred things up (it's a harbor freight joke though, I'm planning on borrowing a decent one). Thanks.
 

Kaz

New member
31
1
0
Location
Wichita area, KS
The threaded shaft. I don't think I've heard the correct term for it, but it's stuck in part 6 in the graphic. Right now the best I can think of is to pull the whole thing off, take it to the shop, heat it, and try hammering it out again. I'm hoping someone here is an actual mechanic with a simpler solution.
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,221
77
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
I think you're probably right. My thought was to try some penetrating oil and a pickle fork (one page up is a list of tools needed:
Tools
General mechanic’s tool kit:
automotive (Appendix B, Item 1)
Pickle fork (Appendix B, Item 129)

Special Tools
Socket adapter (Appendix B, Item 146)
Crowfoot 15/16 in. (Appendix B, Item 151)


or (lastly) pull the shaft and geared hub, put a gear/pulley puller on it after judicious application of heat, Kroil, PB Blaster and/or Schaefer's. But beating it will certainly teach it a lesson it won't soon forget.

[man I hope I don't have to change those parts anytime soon]
 
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juanprado

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,509
2,711
113
Location
Metairie/La (N'awlins)
O'reilly and Auto Zone have in their loaner tools a ball joint press. The press will save you some elbow grease from beating it out.

There is also a pickle fork wedge with wider spread for ball joints. Looks like the ones for tie rods. These are also in loaner tools.

The tapered seat of the ball joint stud is your problem going into the control arm. As noted, spray religiously even acetone with atf mixture can't hurt.
 

ari

New member
234
3
0
Location
dacula Ga
I havent replaced the ball joints on my humvee yet. but I have replaced plenty of them on various cars and trucks back when I worked in a shop. go pick up one of these ball joint presses harborfreight sells them if you cant find it elsewhere. if you get one and since you have a stubborn balljoint tighten the bolt on the press as tight as you can get it and give the knuckle a solid whack with a hammer on the opposite side of the press and it should pop right out. maxresdefault (1).jpg7-Ball-Joint-2-9-11.jpg
 
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Action

Well-known member
3,581
1,551
113
Location
East Tennessee
Don't these come out just like a tie rod end? By hitting the side of the object it is in? i.e. hitting the geared hub next to the ball joint?
 

Rmtaunton

Well-known member
1,510
31
48
Location
Smyrna, ga
Just did stubborn ones on my old jeep got the loaner kit from advance after putting as much pressure on the C clamp that I deemed enough before it failed I started tapping , then hitting all around unfortunatly it didn't work this time so I got out the map gas after about 30 seconds it popped loose


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

ari

New member
234
3
0
Location
dacula Ga
Don't these come out just like a tie rod end? By hitting the side of the object it is in? i.e. hitting the geared hub next to the ball joint?
sometimes they get extremely stuck. but if that press doesent want to push it out hitting the knuckle while the press is tight on the joint will cause it to pop out fast and easy.
 

Mquirin

Member
40
0
6
Location
Houston, Tx
I'm about to tackle this project (replace upper and lower ball joints) on my M998. Do I need to lock down the spring? Not sure if it will shoot off or not. Also, should I remove the half-shaft from the geared hub, or can it stay in? I've seen some pics online of it removed but the TM doesn't say to do it.

I've changed some of the half-shafts, which were very simple to do. How would you rate this project from a difficulty level?
 

DatGuyC

Member
537
20
18
Location
Essex, Maryland
I'm about to tackle this project (replace upper and lower ball joints) on my M998. Do I need to lock down the spring? Not sure if it will shoot off or not. Also, should I remove the half-shaft from the geared hub, or can it stay in? I've seen some pics online of it removed but the TM doesn't say to do it.
I've changed some of the half-shafts, which were very simple to do. How would you rate this project from a difficulty level?
The spring travel should be limited by the shock.
 

911joeblow

Active member
507
68
28
Location
Utah
Just want to add that if you are going to be banging on it, first thread on the nut with some gap left for it to loosen up. The nut head is a bigger target and can help you use a bigger dead blow hammer. The bigger the hammer the better this goes. Also securing the hub assembly so it cant move when you hit the joint goes a long way.
 
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