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Water pump pulley replacement.

erasedhammer

Active member
843
56
28
Location
Maryland
I am going to replace my 4 groove pulley for the 5 groove one.

I know some people say that you have to remove the radiator stock to access the bolts and all.
I was wondering if the job is possible with removing the stack?

It would save me time, maybe it wouldn't save me some headaches but at least it theoretically wouldn't require major dissasembly.
 

DatGuyC

Member
537
20
18
Location
Essex, Maryland
I've replaced the whole water pump without removing the stack. The only real hard part is sticking your arms through the fan to get at the bolts on the front of the fan clutch.
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,254
158
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
I've replaced the whole water pump without removing the stack. The only real hard part is sticking your arms through the fan to get at the bolts on the front of the fan clutch.
Which in itself becomes a lot easier with the right tools. Start first with some compressed air on the hydraulic line leading to the fan clutch to allow it to free-spin and get it set so that you can easily get a hex bit centered in the access hole for each bolt. I couldn't initially get mine to budge while trying to reach through the fan with hand tools-not enough leverage. So I took the battery and bits off of my impact driver and wriggled it through the fan blades, just barely fitting, reassembled it in the cavity behind the fan, very carefully got the right impact hex driver seated in the bolt, and a quick burst was able to get each one moving out.
 

erasedhammer

Active member
843
56
28
Location
Maryland
Which in itself becomes a lot easier with the right tools. Start first with some compressed air on the hydraulic line leading to the fan clutch to allow it to free-spin and get it set so that you can easily get a hex bit centered in the access hole for each bolt. I couldn't initially get mine to budge while trying to reach through the fan with hand tools-not enough leverage. So I took the battery and bits off of my impact driver and wriggled it through the fan blades, just barely fitting, reassembled it in the cavity behind the fan, very carefully got the right impact hex driver seated in the bolt, and a quick burst was able to get each one moving out.
I believe my fan is already disengaged. So by free spinning do you mean that it can be turned by hand?
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,254
158
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
I believe my fan is already disengaged. So by free spinning do you mean that it can be turned by hand?
Yes but it should be turning independent of the drive belts/engine. If the engine is not running, the fan is engaged. It takes hydraulic (or air) pressure to the fan clutch to cause it to extend out by half an inch and disengage from the engine. It's a failsafe design so that if anything goes wrong, the fan defaults to running.
 

erasedhammer

Active member
843
56
28
Location
Maryland
Yes but it should be turning independent of the drive belts/engine. If the engine is not running, the fan is engaged. It takes hydraulic (or air) pressure to the fan clutch to cause it to extend out by half an inch and disengage from the engine. It's a failsafe design so that if anything goes wrong, the fan defaults to running.
Then my fan is already disengaged without need the compressed air. I can turn it by hand independently of the belts and engine
 
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