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.Here’s what I used…
POR does have a Rust remover line of product as well.
That's interesting @DaneGer21 ... I didn't know that POR15 had a tank sealer.
The 1929 Model A that I have needed that problem solved. The sealer that son and I used is still as clean as it was the day we did that piece of work... It gets inspected regularly because - to be honest - I expected it to crack and there would be a tank full of chips and crumbs after a few weeks.
The tank itself in my case was loaded with rust. POR ate away most of the loose stuff, then the steam jenny blew out even more and the heat was a big plus. It got the tank too hot to handle bare handed and the water dried up. The sealer was rolled around on all sides of the tank and it seems to be holding.
Tank was removed. Filled and rinsed probably a dozen times. Then Acid washed(Muriatic). Air/heat dried. Shop vac’d any dust. Then lined, and rolled on garage floor.Regarding tank liners, after cleaning the crud and loose rust. Then the tank gets acid etched so the liner will stay on. Tank must be removed so you can roll it around both for acid and sealer.
For large tanks, may not be worth it.
So last night I pulled apart my original boost pump that I removed from the truck. There was NO fiber washer/gasket inside between the plug and valve, or anywhere for that matter. Im guessing those disintegrate over time? The o-ring on the piston plug was there and intact.So my problem as Floridianson mentioned was the same as yours. I also updated all my lines to DOT 1/2 nylon, had new filters installed. I put new o rings from hardware store in my boost pump while replacing the main boost pump shaft seal which was dumping fuel in the crankcase. Fuel pressure would be be normal but once she hit 1900 to 2000 rpm it dropped to zero and stayed at zero until stopped and restarted. It would idle perfectly fine with zero fuel pressure. But any power demands caused stalling. I could hear the same Airtex I installed change pitch as the truck sat stalled and regained fuel prime after several seconds. Could have been pushing all the fuel pressure back to the tank in reverse? Who knows!
Basically the boost pump was not sealing at the internal check valve. A proper AMBAC kit installed on a better condition used booster fixed the issue. I also eliminated the AIRTEX at the same time and went back to a proper in tank military fuel pump. My Airtex never made more than 2 or 3 psi. Could have been plugged with junk or just a bad unit. But it is my feeling that they don’t flow nearly as well as the rotary vane pump. Lots of people use them without issue though so I don’t think it was the cause of my problems.
the boost pumps check valve assembly is pretty critical to proper running. There is a compressed fiber washer that seals the check valve to the piston plug, there’s also an O ring at the piston plug itself. My attempts to use hardware store fiber gaskets and o rings just wouldn’t seal properly. The check valve will appear hard and brittle because it is a phenolic resin type valve check, red in color like Bakelite. They’re usually in good shape.
Got a chance about 15mins ago to put the newly “rebuilt” boost pump on, I used AMBAC kt9062 like mentioned above. I was given two fiber washers in my pack.So last night I pulled apart my original boost pump that I removed from the truck. There was NO fiber washer/gasket inside between the plug and valve, or anywhere for that matter. Im guessing those disintegrate over time? The o-ring on the piston plug was there and intact.
Today is in the upper 30’s so hopefully I’ll get time to reinstall it, because the next few days drop back down and then stay near 0.
And with nearly a foot of snow on the ground, I’d like to see how it does!…or just play haha
Well I installed the AMBAC kit and unfortunately it didn’t help. I’ll check all three valves again. Hard for me to believe that two boost pumps have the same issues, possible, but hard to imagine both are bad.Your boost pump is still suspect. Mine was badly scored from junk fuel at the two plate halves that sandwich together. When I put the kit on my new used pump that is when the problem was fixed. You should also check the overflow valve on the side of the hydraulic head. If stuck open there will be a big pressure drop. But being as though it’s loosing prime it makes me suspect the fuel I getting pushed back to the tank via the main supply line. I also put my military pump back in when I did the booster so it was not a definitive this or that fixed the problem per say.
In my opinion that check valve on the boost pump plug could be welded closed entirely. I don’t see the purpose behind such a fragile assembly other than to allow fuel to flow freely though the boost pump when the motor isn’t running.
may I ask what sealant you used on the booster plate when you reassembled? It is a labyrinth type machined sealing surface and any sealant used must be extremely thin.
I am now thinking the pump may be the issue. I have found two sources for info on the Airtex E8131. A 2016 publication on their site states 10-14 psi and 35GPH. Now their site with an updated 2022 publication states 9-14psi and 20GPH.Hi Dane. I saw your ad in wanted section for a in tank pump after posting last message. I almost guarantee you have problem pulling fuel through the old pump with the new pump. If you want to use your new pump. I would take out the old in tank pump and attach line to just the pickup screen and attach pick up screen so that stay at the bottom of the housing ( meaning staying at bottom of the tank.) Than you would have a straight shot from the bottom of tank to your new pump. If that don't work, I say your new pump is not enough to feed the injection pump at higher demand situation.
As of last night it was running great, even at 10 degrees outside haha By the time I let it warm up, then cruising around our farm field’s, to taking it around the block, it was a solid 35-40mins of run time, never once a hiccup. The longest it would ever run good before, was about 1-4 mins then stall, no matter how hard or easy I drove it.Damn curious if this will be resolved.
.As of last night it was running great, even at 10 degrees outside haha By the time I let it warm up, then cruising around our farm field’s, to taking it around the block, it was a solid 35-40mins of run time, never once a hiccup. The longest it would ever run good before, was about 1-4 mins then stall, no matter how hard or easy I drove it.
I’ll fire it up again this evening, but as of now it’s good!
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