What Guage Size for dash?

[redwolf3]

Hey Guys-
I have a question for anyone who has installed aftermarket gauges in their CUCV. I am looking to replace all the dummy lights in my CUCV with "Real" gauges. I don't really want to remove my old ones, but rather just install the new ones in front of them. That way I can have the dummy light glow in an emergency, or the gauge in front for more useful information.

The first one I need to do is a replacement of the stock 24v Charging Gauge as I have converted to 12v. I've been looking at the Autometer Z series as they seem to be simple, no-nonsense gauges that match the decor of the CUCV. But I'm not sure if I should go 2 1/16" or 2 5/8" for the best fit in the existing dummy light holes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.


EDIT: For correct spelling of gauge, ooops.

 

[acetomatoco]

RE: What Gauge Size for dash?

2 1/16 inch is the M-series size. You can take a two gauge panel, aftermarket type, and have a 12 Volt Voltmeter in the original hole and a mechanical oil pressure gauge and a mechanical Bourdon tube temp unit in the new panel...and clamp it to the steering column or hang it up under the dash or in a windshield pod...and keep the original lights intact...or not...

 

[redwolf3]

Ya, sorry about the spelling of gauge. It was a long night for me.

As for the pack, I have seen those hanging around, the good 'ole Autometer inexpensive 3 set. I may still go with the Z-Series because I'm going to be getting a few more than just those, and I'm weird about matching for some reason.

At this point, I've been looking at doing Alternator (in the original Mil location), Oil Pressure in front of Oil Light, Oil Temp in front of 4WD light, Coolant Temp in front of Alt 1 light and Tranny Temp in front of Alt 2 Light... But that's just a guess for right now. My main concern is a 12V Alternator gauge right now. (By Alternator gauge, I of course mean a Voltmeter).

I will post pics once I get her running and get some gauges in.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

you will have to remove the dummy lights to put real gauges in there, coloradok5 has a good writeup on that, and 2 1/8" would be the better fit iirc.

 

[redwolf3]

Ya, I went out with a 2 1/16" Alternator gauge tonight to see how it fits up. The stock Alternator gauge is definitely 2 1/26", but it also looks like 2 1/16 will fit in the dash as well (if I remove the factory lights).

My main reason for sticking with these (for now), is that I like the basic, black on black look of them. Sadly, the Z-Series by Autometer only come in 2 1/16" and a couple of slightly larger sizes for Tach and Speedometer. I will probably have to figure out something else if I want to change out those, but I'm ok for now.

I will be taking apart the dash as well because I have to replace the dashpad, so while I'm at it, I'll try and take a look at the current gauge situation. Am I correct in assuming that a stock M1009 does not have actual sensors for Temp and Oil Pressure, and just pressure/temperature sensitive switches?

 

[acetomatoco]

Let us see a pic when it is done and maybe it will be come a sticky...I wonder if earlier Chev oem type gauges would fit the 84-86 panel?

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Let us see a pic when it is done and maybe it will be come a sticky...I wonder if earlier Chev oem type gauges would fit the 84-86 panel?

They should. The gauge panel's layout and dimensions never changed from 73 to 87 (91) so physically they should all fit in there. Wires might be a different matter.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

yes the civilian cluster will bolt in, but the wiring harnesses are nowhere near the same and all the sending units would have to be changed as well.

 

[redwolf3]

Thanks guys, I think I've got it all figured out now.

At this point, my plan is to continue using the Autometer Z-Series in the stock holes I believe. I have confirmed that I can make the 2 1/16" one's fit in the stock location without TOO much problem. I will of course have to hack the harness some to fit it all in.

For now, I'm mainly worried about Voltmeter, Coolant Temp and Oil Pressure. I'll figure out the rest from there. I will document what I find when I pull the dash apart, etc.

On a side note, it appears that performing the 24v to 12v Conversion following the Roscomm instructions, the Mil Spec 24v Voltmeter is completely pulled out of the circuit. I guess it must have been hooked up to the second alternator.

 

[redwolf3]

Well, one other quick update...

After an enfuriating round of trying to find some "real" connectors (by real I mean connectors that are held together by more than just a crimp), I lucked out at OSH. They had some good connectors that I was able to solder, crimp and heat shrink to get my alternator all wired back in.

I think for my gauge wiring harness, my plan is to have something that will be attached (with epoxy most likely) to the back side of the gauge panel. I am going to use a series of terminal blocks and fuse blocks to distribute power for each of the gauges using spade connectors. I then want to have the whole thing wired in with a single plug to the current wiring harness. That way, if I need to pull the dash, I can just disconnect one plug (and the speedometer cable) and the whole thing will come apart. We'll see if it works out the way I want it to.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Just make sure you have enough room to get to that single plug.


Nothing irks me more about new cars' dashes then those big huge wire looms behind the dash that have about 2" of movement and don't want to flex for anything.