What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
Yes you will have 12 volts at the base. This metal prong protrudes in from the side and serves as the ground. You can definitely see that it contacts the outer side of the bulb base to complete the circuit. Check your grounds carefully.
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
With a test light I attach the clip to positive and make the test light light when I probe the ground. Simple enough. Nothing fancy. These are old trucks and many people have messed with them. Many have grounds up front on the core/radiator support that are badly corroded or just plain swinging in the breeze without being attached. Add a few new ground from frame to buss bar and buss bar to engine. I have even started adding a heavier ground cable to the Gen 1. never hurts a thing. Solved some of the LED flicker I was having in the rear lights.
 

The FLU farm

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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The actual midwest, NM.
Hooked up a 400-gallon auxiliary tank. DSCN0865[1].jpgWith winter coming I don't want to worry about batteries and glow plugs, so now I can just leave the M1008 running.
And while it is indeed a gravity feed, I have no idea why the computer insisted on turning the photo sideways.
 

papa8856

New member
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Location
Spring Hill Fl
:lol:Cleaned the ground and reinstalled. Traced wires up to steering column. Found loose dark blue wire and loose light plug wire Shook them and the directional started to blink Yahoo!! Also cut the diode out for the horn, spliced the wire that someone had cut by the horn. Now it Works !!!!
 
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edpdx

Active member
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Location
Oregon
MY M1009 was shaking worse over the last 3 or 4 days. I went through the TM and tried to determine which fixes were probable. The Fuel pump (LIFT PUMP) was on the list. I had one on my shelf, and I didn't remember replacing it since I bough the rig in 2011, so I put it in. The pushrod was the main hold-up on the job- I could not get it lifted to make way for the pump. I finally took off the backing plate and removed the pushrod. Bit of AEROSHELL 33ms and it stayed up to allow me to finish the install with no other issues. I did remove the passenger side alt and bracket to make room- glad I did.

The shaking and vibration at idle and in the slot between idle and 45 MPH continued driving me mad, so I picked up a Harmonic Balancer. PowerBond OEM - Harmonic Balancer P/N PB1102N at Oreilly. My pulley install kit did not have the needed shaft, but I was able to cobble one together by borrowing the larger kit from AUTOZONE (Deposit $75.). Here are some pics of the parts used. I ended up removing and replacing the HB twice, because I forgot to replace the Front seal. Tool held up well, my hand took a beating turning the crescent wrench a few hundred turns.

Back on the road again, no front main leak, no vibration, real tight get up and move feeling. Now I have to figure out what I can use the old Harmonic Balancer for.


HB2.jpgHB1.jpg
 

alanb

Member
118
0
16
Location
Apollo Beach, Florida
Been working on a few things lately on the M1009
Added hood insulator. It does make it a little quieter
Added heavy duty headlight harness and new 200mm custom headlights. Huge difference.
Replaced old seat belts.
Replaced master cylinder.
Reinstalled ebrake cable.
I do have one question, front end seems loose, (steering). No cracks around steering box or frame. Had my mechanic check and they couldn't find anything. No wobble, just loose.
Any suggestions?
 

Bighorn

New member
445
5
0
Location
N/A
Been working on a few things lately on the M1009
Added hood insulator. It does make it a little quieter
Added heavy duty headlight harness and new 200mm custom headlights. Huge difference.
Replaced old seat belts.
Replaced master cylinder.
Reinstalled ebrake cable.
I do have one question, front end seems loose, (steering). No cracks around steering box or frame. Had my mechanic check and they couldn't find anything. No wobble, just loose.
Any suggestions?
How are your spring eye bushings up front?
Sway bar bushings still intact?
Front wheel bearings properly set?
Tire pressure within spec?
 

rustystud

Well-known member
8,749
1,126
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
MY M1009 was shaking worse over the last 3 or 4 days. I went through the TM and tried to determine which fixes were probable. The Fuel pump (LIFT PUMP) was on the list. I had one on my shelf, and I didn't remember replacing it since I bough the rig in 2011, so I put it in. The pushrod was the main hold-up on the job- I could not get it lifted to make way for the pump. I finally took off the backing plate and removed the pushrod. Bit of AEROSHELL 33ms and it stayed up to allow me to finish the install with no other issues. I did remove the passenger side alt and bracket to make room- glad I did.

The shaking and vibration at idle and in the slot between idle and 45 MPH continued driving me mad, so I picked up a Harmonic Balancer. PowerBond OEM - Harmonic Balancer P/N PB1102N at Oreilly. My pulley install kit did not have the needed shaft, but I was able to cobble one together by borrowing the larger kit from AUTOZONE (Deposit $75.). Here are some pics of the parts used. I ended up removing and replacing the HB twice, because I forgot to replace the Front seal. Tool held up well, my hand took a beating turning the crescent wrench a few hundred turns.

Back on the road again, no front main leak, no vibration, real tight get up and move feeling. Now I have to figure out what I can use the old Harmonic Balancer for.


View attachment 704550View attachment 704551
It has already paid for itself, so if you use it just once more in your life your money ahead. Keep it. You can never have enough tools !
 

rustystud

Well-known member
8,749
1,126
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
How are your spring eye bushings up front?
Sway bar bushings still intact?
Front wheel bearings properly set?
Tire pressure within spec?
What he said. Plus check all the steering joints and the king-pins (steering knuckle) . I bet you will find some loose parts in there. Plus check the steering gear for "sector" shaft movement. It should be ZERO !
 

german m1008

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
824
938
93
Location
Rhein-Main Area, Germany
Been working on a few things lately on the M1009
Added hood insulator. It does make it a little quieter
Added heavy duty headlight harness and new 200mm custom headlights. Huge difference.
Replaced old seat belts.
Replaced master cylinder.
Reinstalled ebrake cable.
I do have one question, front end seems loose, (steering). No cracks around steering box or frame. Had my mechanic check and they couldn't find anything. No wobble, just loose.
Any suggestions?
......can you hear a „clonk“ during the steering?
Maybe the heart stud ( don’t know the correct englisch word), in germany we say Herzbolzen......on the springs is knocked out?
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
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24
18
Location
NH
On my truck (civy k10) it was loose bolts on steering box, only seen when going lock to lock, but felt when going down the road. The bolts felt and looked tight, but a wrench told another story. Torque should be around 60-70ft-lbs if I remember right.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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6,749
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
......can you hear a „clonk“ during the steering?
Maybe the heart stud ( don’t know the correct englisch word), in germany we say Herzbolzen......on the springs is knocked out?
I give you an E for effort. German m1008 is referencing the centering pin. Make sure it is in alignment. Am I correct my German friend?
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
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Location
St.louis missouri
Today i parked my truck so I can save it for the upcoming winter weather when I HAVE to drive it...pretty much all repairs have been made and other than cleaning out pizza delivery trash it's pretty much 100%
 
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