All that plumbing under the hood

So...

In the midst of rebuilding the carb and intake and exhaust manifold

1. the exhaust manifold is cracked-can it be welded or brazed-or where is a good place for a replacement (Canada)

2. the truck has/had 2 heaters (musta been the Generals truck)-I can live without either. Can all the water ports simply be closed off or plugged or do any of them NEED to flow?

3.That monster EGR hose from the valve cover to the intake?....WHY?....can I convert it to something simpler?...or even just put a small air filter on the cover ala hot rod motor?

4.What is that thin metal oil (?) line for that goes to each intake port on the intake manifold?...Im guessing it feeds small amounts of oil to the intake valve?...can it be deleted and plugged off?...mine was cut and squiched anyway...

5. there is a hose that goes from the air compressor to a valve block high on the firewall...the airhorn also feeds from that valve block-how does all that stuff work together-the truck builds air(tanks are full) but the horn wont honk and the valve block doesn't leak air when the horn is removed (gotta have the airhorn-gotta)

that is all for now....

I suggest before you go too far changing things you download the manuals for your truck.

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaM135-211sTMdownloadpage.htm

The thin metal oil line sounds like the vent / air lines. One of them should go the the governor on the carburetor.

The air horns need to have power from the horn button on the steering wheel. You can take off the wires and test to see if the the air valve is getting power. The air valves do go bad too.

1. Can't be fixed. Call around to all the major dealers 'till you find one.
2. Don't need to flow.
3. That is the positive crankcase ventilation and you need it to prevent sludge buildup in the top of the engine
4. The thin lines are for the primer, connects to a hand pump in the dash to the left of the steering wheel. Would shoot raw gas in the intake for arctic starting.
5. The block is not a valve but a distribution manifold. No idea why no air is coming out of it. Insect nest?
.

That is the positive crankcase ventilation and you need it to prevent sludge buildup in the top of the engine]

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Can it be simplified?....the fancy braided line with brass fitting seems like overkill (and mine is seriously unhappy)

5. The block is not a valve but a distribution manifold. No idea why no air is coming out of it. Insect nest?
.

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no bugs...what is the purpose of the hose that goes between it and the air compressor regulator?

thanks so far!! much appreciated!

If your PCV braided line is damaged, replace it. (Fancy? All this high quality hardware is what gives the truck character!)

The air hose supplies line pressure air to the compressor governor on top of the compressor.

Hey Klunk, If you live in Canada see if you can get in touch with Ralph Journeay over in Ontario, he runs Niagara Military Parts. He has G749 Canadian parts. 905.732.4122

SturmTyger380 said:

Hey Klunk, If you live in Canada see if you can get in touch with Ralph Journeay over in Ontario, he runs Niagara Military Parts. He has G749 Canadian parts. 905.732.4122

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Thanks for that-already have gotten to know him for Iltis parts (Which Ive had for a couple years)

Ralph only lives about 10 minutes from me so it works well-he lets me dig around in his yard

Is the air compressor water cooled?

one line appears to come from the block and the other travels via steel line to the tranny...correct?

Compressor cooling G749

Page 456 Hot Tub TM 9-8024 says lubricated by engine and cooled by engine.

I was looking for a plumbing route pic but not seeing it. The trani is also water cooled so it makes sense. Could be a photo buried here. http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaM135-211sTMdownloadpage.htm It helps if your computer downloads pdf's quick or you have patience. I bought the TM's to avoid the computer.

I'd loan the manuals to you but we spend a lot of time in the tub together so.......up to you.

Yup water cooled. Give the hoses a tug at the crimp fittings, likely will break off.

I'd loan the manuals to you but we spend a lot of time in the tub together so.......up to you.

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Im good-thanks!

I have every manual I can find on pdf now but it seems like the one thing ya look for isn't there...

The cooling system is pretty gunked up-if anyone has advice on flushing the sytem I would like to hear it!!

I spent a whole day pressure washing and flushing my radiator.
If your radiator is slugged up you should pull the freeze plugs out of the block and pressure wash inside the block. I found all kinds of stuff inside mine. Including a metal clothes hanger.. I'm guessing the previous owner tried cleaning the sludge out and it broke off.
And also pull the cooling lines off the trans and flush the trans cooler, mine was plugged solid.

And also pull the cooling lines off the trans and flush the trans cooler, mine was plugged solid.

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good point...

on the tranny where the lines go in...there is a large oval plate (faces front)...if this is removed can I clean out the water cooled portion of the tranny?

also...the hard line that runs from the compressor along the engine to the tranny...does it have a check valve in it somewhere?....I put 120psi into that line and didn't get anything coming out the far end(removed the drain plug on the tranny water cooler)

Yes I took my oval plate off and cleaned mine out. I read an older post where they guy used an old hacksaw blade to carefully slide in underneath the cooler assembly. I did this during the summer while holding a garden hose with the water running to help flush it out while I moved the blade around. There was a bunch of black muck in there and I could see where that might eventually clog up that area and then no flow.

I don't think there is a check valve in there. I started on the metal line that came off of the water pump on the passenger side. My metal pipe going beside the engine broke. It was too old to take the stress. I had to have one made.

I had to make a new gasket to go on the oval plate when I put it back together.

Alan

There are a few photos on this thread of the Oil Pan Cooler Assembly. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?111252-M135-trans-fill-blew-up

....and a warning about hot transmissions to go with it.

If 120psi won't go through the cooling lines it will be real interesting to see what could be blocking it. Please let us know what you find. This may be related to the transmissions getting hot and creating the problems in the above post.

The trani oil screens get plugged simply from lack of maintenance but can not think of why your cooling lines wouldn't flow. Could be a R,C+R .....Remove, Clean and Replace.... one piece at a time. A decent set of spanning pliers help to get at the nuts for the oil cooler however removal can be a battle so prepare for at least 12 rounds with the gloves on.

Real interested to see what you find.

holy sheep dip-thanks guys

the steel line that goes from the air comp to the tranny was plugged SOLID at the tranny union...

despite 120 psi from the air hose it wouldn't clear...I had to remove the line...it was plugged right where it entered the tranny...really plugged. All the pressure also popped a couple pin holes in the steel line.

the local cubota dealership made me a new line out of hydraulic tube (4000 psi)...kinda overkill but **** ya!!

next up-pull that oval tranny plate and clean the guts out...will get some pics for those interested in nasty 60 year old army junk guts

I have not gotten to the air compressor side of the truck yet. I bet that line will break like the other side did. Oh well sumpten to add to the long, long list.

Alan

SturmTyger380 said:

I have not gotten to the air compressor side of the truck yet. I bet that line will break like the other side did. Oh well sumpten to add to the long, long list.

Alan

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the secret seems to be HEAT the connections...a propane torch is more than enough...they all came apart with no problems and are all perfectly reusable



this is a pic of the front of the tranny with the oval plate removed....ya cant tell now but the gunk-crap-rust-dead mice had it totally clogged

I tried heat on my coolant pipes but they were paper thin and broke anyway. My gunk was all black like left over rubber. Strange.

Alan

general pics of things coming apart