welldigger
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All the way to the floor is low gear.
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IP problem with my new Deuce...need advice
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acesneights1
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That is where it is so the clutch is smoked.
acesneights1
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I got ambitious and went out in the dark..
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welldigger
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There is definitely oil behind the impeller. Turbo seals are toast. I bet it looks the same way on the other side of the turbo.
acesneights1
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How hard is it to do turbo seals ? It may have run out of fuel. It sounded pretty horrible but it was also loading up with fuel and no air.
acesneights1
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so what did I do wrong that it ran away ?
acesneights1
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So how can I tell if it was in right ? It ran away. It seemed to slide in fine.
welldigger
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By the looks of that turbo I would take it to a turbo shop. The whole turbo may or may not be bad.
welldigger
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If the turbo seals are bad on the intake side then the engine could have been feeding on its own engine oil causing the runaway. Even if the IP shut the fuel down.
DieselBob
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One problem at a time. As noted above if the seals are bad on the intake/compressor side of the turbo you need to fix that first. if enough oil is getting past the seal this could be your run away problem and all the tinkering with the IP isn’t going to help. Also I see you have a intake flame heater and you might want to take it out and verify it isn’t leaking/spraying a uncontrolled amount of fuel into the intake which would also be a good reason for the uncontrollable rpm’s.
acesneights1
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I saw no evidence of turbo oil leaks before this happened. I suspect it ran away because of the fuel shutoff and by trying to starve it for air it sucked the seals out. That would be my best guess.
I have had some time to cool off. I think what I need to do is:
fix the fuel filter leak
try and figure what I did wrong with the IP
disconnect the turbo from the intake so if it does runaway, the turbo won't be helping push more air in as well as any oil. I should have done that in the first place.
I need to try and start it and assess the condition of the motor before buying any substantial parts. If the motor is spent, then I have to decide whether to part the truck out or do a Cummins conversion. I won't waste my effort messing around with used multifuel motors with no guarantees.
I "think" the engine may have survived.
Here is what I know:
The Good...
It turns over fine, not locked up or making any bad noises when cranking
It was full on oil so it did not suck itself dry.
No antifreeze in oil or oil in antifreeze.
The bad...
It sounded noisy when running but it was at a little higher than idle with the air choked and overlaoding on fuel so that could have been the knocking but all that raw fuel could have washed out the cyls or cracked the rings. Won't be able to assess that unless I get it running
It now needs the fuel system purged again
The clutch is toast.
So basically I need to figure what I am doing wrong with the IP. Maybe the part that moves with the fuel rod is stuck and I am installing the rod under or over it ??
Until I can figure that out, I am playing with fire. I re read all the threads on servicing the fuel rod but did not see anything specifically outlining how to make sure it is in right other than..be prepared for runaway. Ok, that happended..Now what ?
I have had some time to cool off. I think what I need to do is:
fix the fuel filter leak
try and figure what I did wrong with the IP
disconnect the turbo from the intake so if it does runaway, the turbo won't be helping push more air in as well as any oil. I should have done that in the first place.
I need to try and start it and assess the condition of the motor before buying any substantial parts. If the motor is spent, then I have to decide whether to part the truck out or do a Cummins conversion. I won't waste my effort messing around with used multifuel motors with no guarantees.
I "think" the engine may have survived.
Here is what I know:
The Good...
It turns over fine, not locked up or making any bad noises when cranking
It was full on oil so it did not suck itself dry.
No antifreeze in oil or oil in antifreeze.
The bad...
It sounded noisy when running but it was at a little higher than idle with the air choked and overlaoding on fuel so that could have been the knocking but all that raw fuel could have washed out the cyls or cracked the rings. Won't be able to assess that unless I get it running
It now needs the fuel system purged again
The clutch is toast.
So basically I need to figure what I am doing wrong with the IP. Maybe the part that moves with the fuel rod is stuck and I am installing the rod under or over it ??
Until I can figure that out, I am playing with fire. I re read all the threads on servicing the fuel rod but did not see anything specifically outlining how to make sure it is in right other than..be prepared for runaway. Ok, that happended..Now what ?
acesneights1
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Hmmm.......I did not even realize that...I wonder....
Also this is gonna sound dumb but what the heck...should the engine stopo handle be pulled out or pushed in to run ??
When I first tried to start it it just cranked..I had the handle/cable pushed in thinking it was like the old Macks. I pulled it out and that was when it started and took off which leads me to believe I have something screwed up in the pump(well not me, undoing what PO did to it.)
I still cant see how the cover actuates the lever under it. It looks to me like something is missing.
Jeepsinker
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Maybe when he said the sleeve was cracked he meant a cylinder sleeve...
acesneights1
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No because he said I can get one off ebay for 5$ but I think he meant the clevis, or who knows maybe he was just lying. He lied about the clutch.
welldigger
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Your supposed to pull the cable out to kill the engine.
The fuel control rod can manually be manipulated with the shut off cover off. Push the bottom of the lever towards the firewall to kill the engine. When the rod is in the full vertical position that is max fuel delivery.
welldigger
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Also, the way the shut off cable works is simple. The round disk inside the shut off cable that is attached to the kill cable pulls the fuel control rod towards the firewall to shut fuel down.
Which makes me wonder if you had the cable pulled out when you put the cover back on the ip. That would have meant the shut off cable wasn't pulling the control rod to shut off fuel. In fact it could force it to stay at max fuel leading to a perceived runaway. Which was in fact the rod being held open at wide open like if you had your foot to the floor on the gas pedal.
Which makes me wonder if you had the cable pulled out when you put the cover back on the ip. That would have meant the shut off cable wasn't pulling the control rod to shut off fuel. In fact it could force it to stay at max fuel leading to a perceived runaway. Which was in fact the rod being held open at wide open like if you had your foot to the floor on the gas pedal.
acesneights1
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I disconnected the cable from the cover so it was not pulled. IN other words I did not even have the cable connected to the cover assmbly.
acesneights1
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Somehow I did not have the t pin lined up I think but how can I remedy that ?
acesneights1
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could I be over or under the plunger with it ? I do wanna look at the flame heater.
Also, so I can run the engine with the cover off ? Will alot of oil come out ?
Also, so I can run the engine with the cover off ? Will alot of oil come out ?
welldigger
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Yes you can run the engine with the cover off. A little oil might dribble out but you can shut the fuel off easily in a shtf scenario.
Wait. Did you have the cable disconnected when you cranked the engine? Not saying you did. Just trying to clarify what you said.
Wait. Did you have the cable disconnected when you cranked the engine? Not saying you did. Just trying to clarify what you said.