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m105 dump bed trailer

Speddmon

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trust me tm america, you are changing the coil configuration even in small single phase motors too. If you feed a 120 volt coil with 240 volts you will burn it up. That's why you are putting the coils in a series connection so they can handle the higher voltage. It's the same reason you use 24 volt relays on your 12 volt hyd motors, the coils can't handle the extra voltage.

This doesn't have anything to do with dump trailers, I was just trying to clear up what nhdiesel said so people don't have the wrong information.
 

tm america

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not sure on the ac motors but i know for a fact that you can run a 12volt motor an 24 volt or a 6 volt motor on 12 volts with no problem cuz i have done it .yes relays and solonoids are a different thing since they dont work the same .yes both have winding but thats where the similarity stops
 

tm america

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many drag race cars run 16 volt batteries and alts to give the ignitions and starters more power to keep up with the heavy demand placed on them and they help the starter hold up not hurt it's durability.most electirc motors will hold up to an overvoltage situation for quite a long time while a low voltage will kill them quickly
 

nhdiesel

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Sorry for the misinformation about the AC motors...it was in the wee hours of the morning, very tired. Yes, you are correct, usually the wires have to be switched around.

I'm more familiar with DC, and back to these great dump trailers...I thought about doing that with one of mine, now I'm thinking even more...I like it!

Jim
 

Speddmon

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I completely understand Jim, I often got that way when I'm tired too.

Small permanent magnet DC motors like these hyd. pumps and starters can easily be fed with a higher voltage and run fine, actually better as tm america pointed out. The only coil in a small DC motor like these is the armature, and it is such a low resistance that you can apply almost any higher voltage (within reason) and they run fine. This all goes back to the principals of operation of DC motors. As the motor speeds up it actually generates it's own voltage in the oposite direction to the applied voltage, this is called counter EMF. This voltage is fed back into the circuit and also helps to limit the amount of current needed to run the motor. That's why when a starter or little DC pump is first starting up, there is a huge draw of current which settles down by quite a bit after it has come up to speed (you will also see that huge current draw if you stop the rotor from turning, locked rotor). But it's this same phenomenon that makes it imperative that you never run a permanent magnet or series wound DC motor without a load applied. As the counter EMF increases it feeds that voltage and current back into the motor making it faster, if no load is in place to help keep the speed under control, the counter EMF will keep increasing and feeding more and more into the circuit until the motor would eventually spin itself fast enough to literally blow itself up. AC motors and their principals of operation are a whole diferent animal with a completely different set of rules.
 

comdiver

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Back to task, dump bed trailer. I looked at the air/hydraulic cylinders that Harbor freight sells and they will work on one of their sides. I didn't think it it would fair too well under a truck or trailer, rust etc. They also sell an air/hydraulic pump that could be mounted remotely, which may be a cheap, easy way to go. You could even power a small crane in the bed with one.
 

KsM715

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Comdiver, where did you find the info on the harbor freight cylinder? I was going to go that way (figured it was cheap enough to just try it) but the only info that I could find, just the user manual, said to only use in vertical position. I'm guessing thats in there just to cover their butts. I saw on extreme 4x4 they had one mounted on its side being used on a tubing bender.

Does anyonre know if this type of cylinder could be powered off the glad hand on the back of the truck?
 

comdiver

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I purchased one and hooked it up to my small nail gun compressor. It worked. I just didn't like the way it was built for under a truck or trailer. Air vent, valve, etc. The glad hand would supply more air and work better.
 

tm america

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i was thinking about doing that with a m105 and thought about using a air bag from a semi to do the lifting since they can be had fairly cheap and lift huge amounts of weight .i would use a two valves one to fill from the air supply and one to vent to drain and lower the bed :roll:
 

RangerJake72

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not to be a salesman or anything but Northern Tool sells kits to make a dump body out of most any truck bed, just choose by the size (bed length = load capacity). the kits appear to be DC electric over hydraulic, and have the cylinders, pump, hoses & hinges needed, so I would think you could easily install one of these on an M-105, or even an M-35
 

Jake0147

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i was thinking about doing that with a m105 and thought about using a air bag from a semi to do the lifting since they can be had fairly cheap and lift huge amounts of weight .i would use a two valves one to fill from the air supply and one to vent to drain and lower the bed :roll:

Be very careful with that. It's probably doable, however air compresses A LOT. The bed is "heaviest" when it's down, as it raises the work gets lighter, then as the load shifts to the rear it'll reach a point where the air can uncompress a bit, which lightens it more, which uncomoresses the air more... this leads to a massive sudden slam to the full up position. At least that's what happens when (foolishly) using air to raise a dead one ton mason dump for service. Lets just say that I will never do that again, and it's absolutely nothing to do with the mess when you remove the compressed air...
Two thngs off hand that you will HAVE to have are a very stout limiting system to set a maximum tipping angle, and some sort of dampening device (think "giant shock absorber).

.02
 

tm america

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i was thinkin dampening it might be a problem since any change in load would cause a uncontroled bounce but i was planning on doing a scissors setup which would limit it and the raio would help the bounce to
 

res0wc18

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so heres another question. If i use a 24v solenoid for the up and down like you suggested, could i also run it off 12v towing it behind my civy truck?

I still cant get in touch with sr71blackbird, anyone heard or seen of him?
 

res0wc18

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so after some looking, my 105 trailer was a lift gate model and it already has some really beefy half round 1" thick welded mounts with a one inch diameter hole in the center that would be perfect to build the hinge assembly around. Has anyone looked at theirs, that is if they have a lift gate model trailer
 

KsM715

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Mines just the standard 105 set up. Ive ditched the dump trailer idea and decided im gonna put a dump bed on the M818.
 
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