shadow
Member
- 116
- 1
- 18
- Location
- Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Well I did a mess-up yesterday. Trying to get my 1971 Kaiser M35A2 to try and start.
My M35A2 has not run in a few years. It always started fine until it just stopped firing. We suspected bad fuel. I was hand pumping the tank to remove the fuel and then discovered the tank has a drain plug. I never thought to even look for one as I didn't know that was even an option on trucks.
Well I never fully got the fuel drained and has worried about messing with the drain plug and stripping the threads or breaking something. This was awhile ago. I was told the fuel had almost no smell and the little smell it had didn't smell like diesel. (I have very little sense of smell so I don't smell anything)
Fast forward to now. I decided to make things easy (or so I thought) and just get a electric inline fuel pump and run a 5gal plastic gas can sitting on the cab floor. After reading about different pumps, I went with the Airtex E8131. It shows 10-14psi. Here is a link to the specs of it.. http://airtexproducts.com/single-product/?partnumber=E8131&id=98756AX
I am just wanting to use it for temp hookup and found that the hole in the pass seat frame is the same size as the mounting bolt for the pump. The pump even clears the door when shut so it is a nice place to mount it for temp use. Here is a pic of the hole I am referring to.
I also see there are holes in the cab back wall that are just about in line with the seat frame edge. They are perfect size to run some fuel lines.
So what I did was un-screw the main line and return line from the tank. I then got a 1/2" line to push onto the main line (and secure with a hose clamp) and then got an adapter to go from 1/2 to 3/8 to run a line to the electric fuel pump. (It has 3/8 ports) I used the holes in the back wall to run the lines through. I even ran the power wire through a hole so I am use 3 holes (2 holes run a single fuel line for the return and main line, and the 3rd hole is the power wires). I put the gas can on the cab floor and have the fuel lines run into the can so I am bypassing the main tank all together.
I ran a wire straight to the battery Neg post connecting to the neg main cable line to use as a ground for the pump. I then ran 2 wires to connect together to form 24v.
In the diagram pic of the batteries you see the orange wire connection I added for the electric fuel pump. That is so wrong. I thought running from the pos of 1 battery, and the neg of the other battery would give me 24v for the pump. Luckily for the fuel pump, I had not attached the wires to the pump + wire yet. The orange wires were connected to the batteries, but nothing else at that point.
I then connect the main battery cables. I put the one marked Pos to the pos post. I put the neg marked cable on the neg post of the 2nd battery. I then go to attach the 3rd cable that has the jumper line to make 24v. This is where things went sideways.
The moment I touched the battery posts there was a huge flash and noise. It instantly reminded me of my welding classes when doing spray transfer. That loud BUZZZZZ sound. In about 1 full second the positive post of the battery was gone, melted, no longer in existence. I grabbed the cable and yanked (as it was stuck now making a direct short) The cable came loose from the melted end. It was partly melted on the other batteries neg post. That post is still usable. The positive post is no longer there where it arced.
Here is a pic of my battery now. All this happened in about 1 second. These are 800CCA 985CA batteries.
I let it cool as the orange wires were very hot, but they didn't melt. It is 12gauge wire I had on a spool. I was using them to make a 24v connection to run the electric fuel pump. Only the ground wire was connected to the pump so I didn't fry the pump as the pos side of the pump was not connected to the batteries yet.
The main cables have the adapters to connect to top post batteries. When it arced and melted the post, it also melted most of the connector on the cable. I was forced to use bricks to put weight on the connector to make contact to make 24v so the truck could turn over. This was a long process as every time I pushed the starter button, it would click and all voltage was gone. I had to keep going back and forth until I jimmy-rigged enough to hold the terminal on the melted pos contact.
I should mention, I removed the orange wires from the 24v I was trying to make. I left the ground wire on the battery. I then probed the plug for the main fuel tank and found where the pos 24v side of the plug is. I stripped about 1/16" off the orange wire and was able to press it into the plug terminal. This allows me to now have 24v without having to mess with the batteries. I then ran a wire into the cab so I just have to grab the 2 orange wires and twist them together and then flip the accy switch on the dash like normal and I have the electric fuel pump running.
I finally got the melted terminals to stay and could crank the engine like normal.
Now I am at the point where the engine cranks, but does not start. I thought running new fuel would solve the issue.
I went to the filter bleeder tap (I don't know what it is called). It has a drain cock that can just be finger tightened. It is on top of the secondary filters. The fuel came out very dark brown and then turned a yellowish brown. It finally is a yellowish color after spilling about a quart of fuel. I also un-screwed the plastic lines at 2 places. I tried the fuel rail at the last connection closest to the firewall. When I opened the line it was mostly yellowish in color. I re-connected the line and checked to make sure it didn't leak.
I then took off a line on the other side of the motor that is on the top. The line goes into a metal cylinder thing that looks sort of like a coil for an older car. I see there is a much smaller toothpick sized line that runs from it to the turbo area. I only took off the plastic line that was running into the metal object. I don't have my TM's as I am using a old laptop because of computer issues so I am lost as I have no reference pdf's. This laptop has issues opening pdfs so I am stuck getting access to repair steps.
After closing up all the lines I opened, I tried starting the truck. I cranked in 5-7 send intervals delaying in-between to let the starter cool. The truck never fired up. It would just crank and crank.
I tried moving the shut off handle while cranking. I tried stepping on the gas pedal and I even tried pulling the throttle handle. Nothing made it fire up.
It always fired up with a second before the gas went bad. I drained the batteries cranking so I have to recharged them at home. In the pic of the battery, I had to get an adapter to now use the side post to charge and use it.
I tried looking for issue on this site and am wondering if the shutoff rod is gummed up/stuck. I looked up videos and will try looking at that to see if maybe the rod is causing the issue. I found a nice video showing what I need to look at (I am guessing I should start there) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuzZBicUIok
I was wondering, if the fuel filters are clogged or bad, can I possible remove the filters and run the truck without them? I don't have any money right now to buy filters or parts so I am trying to find a way to get it started because I have to move it at my storage place. It only needs to move a few spots over, and maybe pull my other ford truck to move it. After that is can sit and I can work on it to do proper repairs.
My M35A2 has not run in a few years. It always started fine until it just stopped firing. We suspected bad fuel. I was hand pumping the tank to remove the fuel and then discovered the tank has a drain plug. I never thought to even look for one as I didn't know that was even an option on trucks.
Well I never fully got the fuel drained and has worried about messing with the drain plug and stripping the threads or breaking something. This was awhile ago. I was told the fuel had almost no smell and the little smell it had didn't smell like diesel. (I have very little sense of smell so I don't smell anything)
Fast forward to now. I decided to make things easy (or so I thought) and just get a electric inline fuel pump and run a 5gal plastic gas can sitting on the cab floor. After reading about different pumps, I went with the Airtex E8131. It shows 10-14psi. Here is a link to the specs of it.. http://airtexproducts.com/single-product/?partnumber=E8131&id=98756AX
I am just wanting to use it for temp hookup and found that the hole in the pass seat frame is the same size as the mounting bolt for the pump. The pump even clears the door when shut so it is a nice place to mount it for temp use. Here is a pic of the hole I am referring to.
I also see there are holes in the cab back wall that are just about in line with the seat frame edge. They are perfect size to run some fuel lines.
So what I did was un-screw the main line and return line from the tank. I then got a 1/2" line to push onto the main line (and secure with a hose clamp) and then got an adapter to go from 1/2 to 3/8 to run a line to the electric fuel pump. (It has 3/8 ports) I used the holes in the back wall to run the lines through. I even ran the power wire through a hole so I am use 3 holes (2 holes run a single fuel line for the return and main line, and the 3rd hole is the power wires). I put the gas can on the cab floor and have the fuel lines run into the can so I am bypassing the main tank all together.
I ran a wire straight to the battery Neg post connecting to the neg main cable line to use as a ground for the pump. I then ran 2 wires to connect together to form 24v.
In the diagram pic of the batteries you see the orange wire connection I added for the electric fuel pump. That is so wrong. I thought running from the pos of 1 battery, and the neg of the other battery would give me 24v for the pump. Luckily for the fuel pump, I had not attached the wires to the pump + wire yet. The orange wires were connected to the batteries, but nothing else at that point.
I then connect the main battery cables. I put the one marked Pos to the pos post. I put the neg marked cable on the neg post of the 2nd battery. I then go to attach the 3rd cable that has the jumper line to make 24v. This is where things went sideways.
The moment I touched the battery posts there was a huge flash and noise. It instantly reminded me of my welding classes when doing spray transfer. That loud BUZZZZZ sound. In about 1 full second the positive post of the battery was gone, melted, no longer in existence. I grabbed the cable and yanked (as it was stuck now making a direct short) The cable came loose from the melted end. It was partly melted on the other batteries neg post. That post is still usable. The positive post is no longer there where it arced.
Here is a pic of my battery now. All this happened in about 1 second. These are 800CCA 985CA batteries.
I let it cool as the orange wires were very hot, but they didn't melt. It is 12gauge wire I had on a spool. I was using them to make a 24v connection to run the electric fuel pump. Only the ground wire was connected to the pump so I didn't fry the pump as the pos side of the pump was not connected to the batteries yet.
The main cables have the adapters to connect to top post batteries. When it arced and melted the post, it also melted most of the connector on the cable. I was forced to use bricks to put weight on the connector to make contact to make 24v so the truck could turn over. This was a long process as every time I pushed the starter button, it would click and all voltage was gone. I had to keep going back and forth until I jimmy-rigged enough to hold the terminal on the melted pos contact.
I should mention, I removed the orange wires from the 24v I was trying to make. I left the ground wire on the battery. I then probed the plug for the main fuel tank and found where the pos 24v side of the plug is. I stripped about 1/16" off the orange wire and was able to press it into the plug terminal. This allows me to now have 24v without having to mess with the batteries. I then ran a wire into the cab so I just have to grab the 2 orange wires and twist them together and then flip the accy switch on the dash like normal and I have the electric fuel pump running.
I finally got the melted terminals to stay and could crank the engine like normal.
Now I am at the point where the engine cranks, but does not start. I thought running new fuel would solve the issue.
I went to the filter bleeder tap (I don't know what it is called). It has a drain cock that can just be finger tightened. It is on top of the secondary filters. The fuel came out very dark brown and then turned a yellowish brown. It finally is a yellowish color after spilling about a quart of fuel. I also un-screwed the plastic lines at 2 places. I tried the fuel rail at the last connection closest to the firewall. When I opened the line it was mostly yellowish in color. I re-connected the line and checked to make sure it didn't leak.
I then took off a line on the other side of the motor that is on the top. The line goes into a metal cylinder thing that looks sort of like a coil for an older car. I see there is a much smaller toothpick sized line that runs from it to the turbo area. I only took off the plastic line that was running into the metal object. I don't have my TM's as I am using a old laptop because of computer issues so I am lost as I have no reference pdf's. This laptop has issues opening pdfs so I am stuck getting access to repair steps.
After closing up all the lines I opened, I tried starting the truck. I cranked in 5-7 send intervals delaying in-between to let the starter cool. The truck never fired up. It would just crank and crank.
I tried moving the shut off handle while cranking. I tried stepping on the gas pedal and I even tried pulling the throttle handle. Nothing made it fire up.
It always fired up with a second before the gas went bad. I drained the batteries cranking so I have to recharged them at home. In the pic of the battery, I had to get an adapter to now use the side post to charge and use it.
I tried looking for issue on this site and am wondering if the shutoff rod is gummed up/stuck. I looked up videos and will try looking at that to see if maybe the rod is causing the issue. I found a nice video showing what I need to look at (I am guessing I should start there) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuzZBicUIok
I was wondering, if the fuel filters are clogged or bad, can I possible remove the filters and run the truck without them? I don't have any money right now to buy filters or parts so I am trying to find a way to get it started because I have to move it at my storage place. It only needs to move a few spots over, and maybe pull my other ford truck to move it. After that is can sit and I can work on it to do proper repairs.