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Two new toys unimog 404

Ferretboy

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Hi Johan....personally i would set the valve clearence first and see how that goes.....happy new year to all.....hope next year is much better than this one....lol all...David.
 

joeblack5

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Hi David, that is kind of what I did... Ground the edges down.. checked all other rockers with a feeler gauge to see if there were ridges... Seems no...mounted the old one and installed spring.. reset clearance. . Checked for oil out of the lube tube above the camshaft..

Checked the chain tensioner.. it comes up when I crank.. so that seems good.

Then I got the crazy idea to start it for a second to see how much oil comes out.. that was a mistake.. oil everywhere... Oh well it keeps the rust away.

It was the ticking sound that worried me, so will hear if that has cleared up.

Ran out of day light. The valve cover bolt have some thread damage and did not want try it in the dark..

Tomorrow..
 

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Ferretboy

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It would be great to live in a shop with unlimited parts.....but doing work to keep a vehichle going...well you have to make do with whats at hand...keeps the mind thinking....good for the soul....that sort of thing.....its not the space shuttle....its a unimog.....much easier to work on.....
 

Ferretboy

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Happy new year to you Johan and all the unimoggers out there.....i sure hope this year is going to be better than the last one...much love to you all...David
 

joeblack5

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Sorry folks, I have been disconnected a bit. Time goes by.
well the bus has a new windshield. Still need to finish the "new" RV door on the side, Then I got distracted by another 404.

Earlier i had mentioned to build a bus body on the a 404 as an exercise for an expedition camper... for whatever that means in our current world.
For that I needed a flexing subframe like used on the radio trucks to put on top of my bare soft top 404.

On FB someone sold an unfinished 404 project with a separate new motor in the crate. original motor disappeared..It had a swivel subframe, made an offer and before i new it the rest of the truck without the motor came with it.

My buddy and me picked it up in Ohio, David , maybe you know of him.. T Greening..Nice guy.. he still has a new motor in crate if you are looking for one.

He had painted the frame, and put larger tires on it. The cab has less rust then mine and the folding windshield is in good shape. I wanted a diesel so a the missing engine was a good start.

So now I am a little deeper in the swamp, or maybe not.
My buddy who helped me with the 4x4 conversion of the bus is interested in a 404 as well. It will be a lot more motivating to do a project together.
Decided on a VW ahu diesel. Started a thread on BenzW.
This 404 has a broken steering box because the PO tried to pull the steering shaft. Had a new steering box with it that I am converting into an electric power steering. Using an hyundai elantra EPAS.
This 404 project came with all the parts missing that i wanted to change and that is pretty motivating.
Here some pictures... My buddy explores the missing engine... In reality the hood latch was stuck and this was the easiest access.
Johan
 

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Ferretboy

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Nice unimog Johan....thank you for the photos...

Never seen a unimog engine popped up wearing glasses and a blue hoody....haha....love it....best to you.
 

joeblack5

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Haha, yes I thought he was funny to. The snow is slowing this project down.
I had hoped to have the AHU diesel in the shop but is is still stuck in the snow.

all the diesel conversion threads I have read require some kind of cab conversion. Also there are lots of issues with finding a proper flywheel..clutch ..starter combo that fits with the 404 bell housing.

to avoid all that we are using the VW golf/ jetta tranny / bellhousing and making an adapter plate on the rear of the tranny to the 404 bell housing.

the vw tranny will get gutted except for the primary shaft. That shaft will need to get shorted and adapted to the 404 clutch spline using the female spline of an old clutch..
choprboy at BenzW donated a 404 clutch to this project but if anyone has a junk 404 clutch laying around then please let me know.
The approach is now that the 1.9 tdi AHU motor is all the way in the front so that there is no interference with cab structure. The end part of the vw transmission will stick a little inside the 404 bellhousing so that the oil pan clears the front crossmember on the 404 chassis..

Johan
 

joeblack5

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Sorry nothing about pinzgauer. Cool machines.
Today I aligned all my steering shaft and adapters and tacked it together. Ordered an oil seal 25*42 to seal the now open top of the steering box. I have to make and mount a larger plate to disperse the steering reaction forces to the sheet metal of the firewall. Measure twice cut once.. so I left the old steering tube uncut till all is mounted. Easy enough to cut..so this 404 will now get tilt steering. Will see if that is useful or not.

Later johan
 

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Guyfang

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Sorry nothing about pinzgauer. Cool machines.
Today I aligned all my steering shaft and adapters and tacked it together. Ordered an oil seal 25*42 to seal the now open top of the steering box. I have to make and mount a larger plate to disperse the steering reaction forces to the sheet metal of the firewall. Measure twice cut once.. so I left the old steering tube uncut till all is mounted. Easy enough to cut..so this 404 will now get tilt steering. Will see if that is useful or not.

Later johan
If I don't measure at least 3-4 times, I screw it up.
 

joeblack5

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Haha, yes Guy, here the same. I prefer to make it fit while holding it next to it. To many small lines on a tape measure to trust my eyesight or my memory.

I might have already screwed up by cutting the old tube of and welding the green 404 one back on..
The steering wheel shaft has a spline as well so in theory this could be a telescoping steering as well. As it is now it would be very hard. The 404 tube fits around the original hyundai tube . With a sleeve and clamp that function can work.
Taking the wheel of is kind of nice since it allowed more space for my planned swivel seat ( this is going to be a camper).. also the ultimate theft protection.

Johan
 

joeblack5

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Hello folks, it has been a while.
Using my ex fire truck as pickup truck .

At extended time high speed it would loose power and sometimes quit.

I expected fuel issues. This truck has a factory electric fuel pump mounted on top of the front tank. It also has the engine driven mechanical pump.

Previuos I had cleaned the electric fuel pump from the tar inside tank and ran it with that pump on all the time, without the additional factory electric fuel pump it would stall out after a while. I expected the mechanical engine block fuel pump being defective.

Seeing the rebuild cost of pumps, fuel selector valve, rusted fuel line and that I wanted to separate the two tanks I decided to get rid of all the old fuel stuff and use a separate electric fuel pump with return from the carburator to eliminate vapor lock. Also with my occasional use I also wanted to get fuel in the carb before I started cranking.

To better clean fuel tank I decided to make an extra hole in the top that would double as a fuel pump access.

To get to the 2 psi carb pressure I used a spring loaded check valve in the return line and adjusted the spring to about. 2 psi.

The goal is to make the second tank the same as the front tank with its own fuel pump and add an electric switched return valve. Each tank is supposed to get its own fuel level sensor.. with a relay that will switch the gauge between the fuel sensors.

Johan
 

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joeblack5

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State College PA
I now have the original fire truck fuel tank with factory electric fuel pump. I can block the electric fuel pump hole of but maybe it has a better purpose for someone that is looking for this " rare option" Pump works good and tank is cleaned.
Anyone needs this for restoring their firetruck? Like to barter for two ordinary front fuel tanks.

Johan
 

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