Tatra 912-2 upgrades!

Posting my Tatra 912-2 engine upgrade project here for my PLDvK 53/59 Jesterka (Lizzard)

Going to get things together and starting this coming week off 9/10/08-9/17/08. The plan is to:

1. Install an electric cooling fan and thermostat to help shove the hot air out and keep the airflow going when I park.

2. Machine a bypass block in between the labyrinth oil filter and run a line out to an aftermarket oil cooler

3. Insulate the engine compartment and hopefully knock some of the decibels down in the cabin.

4. Repaint/touch up the cabin.

5. Install the radio and antenna.

6. Install Stereo/CD player and speakers.

7. Install audible alert on all backup warning lamps.

8. Repaint and change fuses in turret.

9. Restore 30mm cannons and reinstall them on the turret.

RANDOM PICS

Fixed!

Too many links to click. I guess I'm spoiled by the fact that Chris hosts everything for us here.

Thanks for posting!

Re: RE: Tatra 912-2 upgrades!

Elwenil said:

Too many links to click. I guess I'm spoiled by the fact that Chris hosts everything for us here.

Click to expand...

how about downloading all the pics and then uploading them to this server. should be easy as pie.

how about if the SS server would transfer pics from a url?

Fixed!

Here ya go guys! Fixed the above and heres the continuation.

I have moved my question here too:
Also looking for ideas on a engine pre-lube setup.Thinking of using a a hand operated setup or this electric pump:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4097

There are two oil galleys that I can drill and tap into. They run alongside each camshaft and I'm thinking that I can plumb into them. I would like to know if there are any one way check valves, like little ball or poppet valves, that I can screw into the block and then run the stainless lines to. That would keep the oil pressure from pushing back into the pump lines and then backflowing into the oil reservoir. I was thinking of something like a large grease zerk ot something that I could modify and use as a one way valve?????

The hand pump would be foolproof but would take a while, the electric might be better and show on the gauge????

Here is a manual and parts book you can look over to help if you see something that could be changed. Give them a little time to upload, they are big!

http://www.pedros.cz/Misc/V3S/V3S_dilenska.pdf

http://www.pedros.cz/Misc/V3S/V3S_katalog_nd.pdf

Heyt guys, if y'all could look at pages 403-404 with me in the sercvice manual: http://www.pedros.cz/Misc/V3S/V3S_dilenska.pdf

There is an illustration of the oiling system that will give you the run down of how everything is lubed. If you look at the upper front of the block you will see a shoulder where the two oil galley hex plugs are located. I can just see these looking down in the engine compartment. They constructed the air jacket to where a mechanic can get to these and blow them out if necessary without having to pull the engine or move any other assemblies. I am thinking of tieing my prelube system into these because I can reach them (the others are in the bellhousing) and routing some stainless tubing back to the pump.

Do y'all know of any sort of one way check valves I can use for this????

Ok, that is much better, thank you! It's a lot more interesting when you can scroll through the pics and see everything together. Really helps when you are looking at stuff like the turret and figuring out what is what, lol. That's an awesome machine and looks in great shape. Are the weapons operable?

Cool, I originally didn't want to post pics becuase I was worried that they would eat up too much space but if it's OK then will do

The guns aren't operable at the moment. I do have MG's like the 20mm you see in the 5th pic but I doubt i will be able to afford to keep the M-53 cannons fed with 30X210
Another thing is the safety issue of the overpenetration the 30mm has, we've fired 30mm Vulcan into my backstop but this Czech round I fear will have allot mor umph behind it than the Vulcan round. The airburst rounds are waaaay too expensive and the regular armor piercing aint that cheap either. I have a case of the yellow tip coming in but most are deacs and I dont think I ill shoot the little bit of live stuff that I have.
The truck is in great shape! New motor, rebuilt tranny, driveline was inspected, etc. The whole undercarriage was detailed and everything is in tip top shape except for a few little requested items and one unexpected one.

They cleaned up the interior very well but I wanted to do the re-paint of the cab myself as well as seats, side upholstery, and dash. They left those as they were which was still in decent shape but needed touch ups or paint. Saved $450 by doing this work myself On the unexpected side however.....the fuel tanks were full of trash and I was only able to drive as far as Anahuac, TX once I left the port of Houston. Really really full of trash....like the kind of full that you have to use a coffee cup to scoop out...really pissed me off
The whole truck is dirty at the moment from its truck ride here as well as dirt form my road so excuse the mess!!!!!

Wow, a whole different world, looks like a positive ground el system too.
Do you have a problem with the oil pressure, or rather, the time it takes to reach pressure at start-up?
How big is the oil filter?
Does it overheat (need for electric fan and oil cooler)?

What kind of "trash" do have in the fuel tank? How many fuel filters? Rust particles can cause problems, I'm a bit paranoid about dirt in the fuel after having experienced an IP problem and probably also an FDC problem on my deuce engine traced back to dirt.

It gets lonely when you have a unique project, but your postings are appreciated so keep it up.

cranetruck said:

Wow, a whole different world, looks like a positive ground el system too.
Do you have a problem with the oil pressure, or rather, the time it takes to reach pressure at start-up?
How big is the oil filter?
Does it overheat (need for electric fan and oil cooler)?

What kind of "trash" do have in the fuel tank? How many fuel filters? Rust particles can cause problems, I'm a bit paranoid about dirt in the fuel after having experienced an IP problem and probably also an FDC problem on my deuce engine traced back to dirt.

It gets lonely when you have a unique project, but your postings are appreciated so keep it up.

Click to expand...

Yep sure is, I would post the english manual I have but I havent scanned it in yet Will try tonight if I can get my PC to not act up.
To answer your questions no not really, the oil pressure seems to get up there pretty quick and thats probably due to the fact it has two oil pumps....pretty overengineered little engine . There are some check valves in the oil system that prevent total drain down into the tank. There is a spring loaded ball valve in the rear of the crank that keeps the bearing from losing oil once the flow stops. What I wanted to get prelubed was the vallvetrain topside, I just have a thing with wear and if there is anything I can do to minimize it I want it.

If you look at the parts catalog, on page 23 there is an illustration of the oil filter. There are NO disposable filters on this engine so consumables are minimal. The only somewhat disposable filter if you would call it that is wrapped around the fuel filter. It's just a 3/8" thick piece of felt that wraps around the screen and is usually just washed out till it gets so dirty its black. The oli filter is mounted on the right hand (from driver seat) lower corner of the engine. It is a labyrinth type of filter. There are over 100 little perforated discs mounted on a spindle that the oil passes through. There are about a dozen little scrapers that mount inside the housing and are there to scrape any sludge or deposits that form onthe outside of the cylinder. The little arm in front of the filter housing has a ratchet inside of it and there is a cable that runs from that arm to the gearshift. As you drive and shift though the gears you clean the filter, any sludge or trash gets dumped into the sump of the oil filter housing and then you just open the drain when you want to clean it.
The oil pressure is pretty low but there is a warning light and temperature gauge that screws in back of the housing. I know this works because twice I have had it come on and both times it was because of the dirty filter, I was working on something under there and I didnt have the actuating cable hooked up so I stopped and got under the truck and manually ratcheted it a few times and it the light went off and all was OK. I had some really dirty oil at the time. I'd like to tee in a pressure guage at this time too so I can see exactly what pressures I have.

The fuel filter is mounted at the rear of the engine as shown in the pic below. The fuel enters the canister at top and is sucked through the center stem from the bottom. There is an air bleeder valve on top of the canister and the steel line from it goes down alongside the bellhousing and under the transmission. The filter housing holds about half a gallon of diesel and let me just say that about two thirds of it was full of trash. I had what seemed like mud packed all the way up to the top of the filter on the outer void.

What year is this truck?

How hard is it to legally own an AOW like your 30mms?

More pics of my work. I was fighting mosquitos when I started last night so I dont have any pics of the first part of work but I took some pics before I RAN back in the house.....I was almost carried away by a squadron of those blood sucking vampires

superburban said:

What year is this truck?

How hard is it to legally own an AOW like your 30mms?

Click to expand...

This one is a 1976 but suprisingly it only has a little over 200km on it. This was one of the mothballed vehicles that unfortunatley wasn't taken really good care of before storage. I thnk they were starting to phase them out about that time and this one shows limited service with the reserve units.

Wow, that all looks really neat!

EZFEED said:

Do y'all know of any sort of one way check valves I can use for this????

Click to expand...

Go to http://www.mcmaster.com and type in "check valve" in the search field. They have all sorts of different kinds, and I'd be surprised if you couldn't find at least one suitable kind of valve there.

Is the turret mechanically traversed, or is there an electric/hydraulic power traverse?

nf6x said:

Wow, that all looks really neat!

EZFEED said:

Do y'all know of any sort of one way check valves I can use for this????

Click to expand...

Go to http://www.mcmaster.com and type in "check valve" in the search field. They have all sorts of different kinds, and I'd be surprised if you couldn't find at least one suitable kind of valve there.

Click to expand...

OH............MY..........LORD!!!!!!

Thank you immensley for this!!!!!! I just ordered 6 of the ball valves, some threaded and some with the barbs so that I can use them on the oil cooler on my other truck!

kcimb said:

Is the turret mechanically traversed, or is there an electric/hydraulic power traverse?

Click to expand...

Its a 24V electric traverse and elevation. There are manual backups if power goes out or the batteries go dead. When on the truck it plugs into the 2 dynamo's that are run by the engine. Those charge the truck batteries and also charge the batteries that are stowed in the box on the right side of the turret and run the electric motors while the engine is running, regular PV3S's only have one dynamo. Someone was telling me that the vehicle can be made into a 20 or 30KW governed generator quite easily by tapping into the charging system but I dont know about that?

Here are some videos that show operation.
(Mine is ALOT quieter than this one)
http://video.yahoo.com/watch/215407/709960

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAlUQgECKVw

EZFEED said:

kcimb said:

Is the turret mechanically traversed, or is there an electric/hydraulic power traverse?

Click to expand...

Its a 24V electric traverse and elevation. There are manual backups if power goes out or the batteries go dead. When on the truck it plugs into the 2 dynamo's that are run by the engine. Those charge the truck batteries and also charge the batteries that are stowed in the box on the right side of the turret and run the electric motors while the engine is running, regular PV3S's only have one dynamo. Someone was telling me that the vehicle can be made into a 20 or 30KW governed generator quite easily by tapping into the charging system but I dont know about that?

Here are some videos that show operation.
(Mine is ALOT quieter than this one)
http://video.yahoo.com/watch/215407/709960

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAlUQgECKVw

Click to expand...

That would explain the wires trailing from the turret assembly when dismounted from the truck.

On the AAV UGWS turret (same as the ASV) there's a power assist with manual for fine tuning Elevation is manual only though. Use the electric to get inside the scope's field of view, then fine tune it till the reticle is right on target.