Oh crap.......
I do know the green warning light requires 0.5atm to make it burn. This light and the oil temp gauge are the only two oil sensors that I have available to me in the cab. The light is actually a reverse dummy light in that it comes on after oil pressure is created past 0.5atm and glows green (for go) as long as pressure is present. I know ths is working correctly too cause I just had an incedent where I ran about 10 miles to the hardware store to pick up some wood and on the way home had a spike in oil temp and the light cut off. I was fiddling with something on the left side of the engine and forgot to reconnect the scraper actuating cable
so I had to pull over and manually do it twice. I had just poured a few quarts of diesel in the crankcase to get it clean and all of the crap was breaking loose and plugging the filter as it warmed up.
Let me run this by you.....
I am thinking about machining an aluminum spacer block to sandwich in between the filter housing and block and using this to tap into the oil ports. There are two chambers in the oil filter housing, the first onethe dirty oil is pumped into is where the labyrinth filter is housed on its spindle. Below the filter is a fairly deep sump where the scrapings are supposed to go. After oil passes through the filter is travels inside the filters cavity and into a secondary chamber where it is directed upwards back into the block to be distributed. In this secondary chamber the oil temperature and pressure information is taken before it travels on. In the event that the filter becomes plugged or the scrapers fail to clean the oil is directed to the top of the first chamber just above the filter to where a poppet ball valve s located and unfiltered oil is allowed into the galley the clean oil was supposed to flow. In such an event the light would go out and the temperature would drop.
What I'm thinking about doing is either:
1. Drill into the top of the oil canister under the engine and istall a pickup tube, from there run a line back ot the 12V oil pump and then back to the filter but tap into the spacer and tie into the DIRTY oil port so that I when I flip the switch the pumped oil will flow into the first chamber, be filtered, then flow to the oil galleys in the engine. I would install one of the McMaster check valves in the aluminum spacer where I tied into it so once I cranked the engine the oil will not flow back through the line to the 12V pump. I would also install a ball valve at the bottom of the pickup tube to prevent oil from draining back so that when I change the oil I dont have an empty line of air.
2. Tie into the clean oil port through the spacer and suck clean oil from the filter housing. There are check valves in the engine to keep oil in the pump and lower engine, the oil would be sucked from the oil canister under the engine then through the bypass in the engine pump and then through the filter and into the suction line. I can run a line then from the spacer, to the 12V pump, then to the two oil ports in front of the engine and pump oil directly to the valvetrain.
Can you tell me what psi I would need going by the 0.5atm needed to make the green light burn or would that just be a minimal pressure?
Any better ideas cause I'd love to find a simpler way and you are the guru on this!!!!
Some farmer was probably pissed off "Sergei! The imperialists stole our tank! Now we not sell to Ezfeed in capitalist amerika! Agh, we are ruined!"
As for the oil line, this is no problem, I can run a line from the spacer block to the turbo with no problem. I'd like to find a way to safely experiment with this and install a wastegate somewhere. Dont know if the D turbo puts out that much but I'll find some way to dump the excess in case something happens.
