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6.2 and bio

wallew

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I'm a bit out of my area here. BUT, I would think that either B100 OR home brew biodiesel would work well in a 6.2L diesel engine. I would doubt it would do as well on wvo, but can't say for sure.

I am in the process of selling my 91 Suburban and then will pick up an M1009 (with the 6.2L diesel). SO, I certainly hope the above statement is correct. I will be greatly disappointed if I can only use dino juice in the 6.2L as I'm planning on lowering the rising cost of fuel by using biodiesel (mainly home brewed) in both the deuce and the M1009.

This is an EXCELLENT QUESTION! Lets ask the resident expert.

HEY, BJORN, whadda ya think?

jim
 
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disolving 6.2

i'm more concerned with the long term effects on pump seals and the like...a 6.2 with it's high compression will probably love a good high cetane fuel combustion wise.Especially since low lubricity,low sulfur diesel is on the way or here already.We could always use a good diesel additive,but thats just more money down the drain (up in smoke?).
A shame i can't use it all year round.Half the year it's to cold to use it up here.maybe i could set up a dual fuel system like people use for wvo.
 

mangus580

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From what I understand, you will have trouble with the seals with both bio AND low sulfur diesel. So in the end it really doesnt matter. And that is only an issue if your pump has yet ot have been rebuilt in say the last 10 years.
 

mangus580

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that I dont know. I do know mine will have to be done this summer.... I noticed yestarday that its leaking some from the throttle shaft.
 

wallew

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Mike,
Are you saying that WHEN you rebuild it you can use seals that should be able to handle either the bio or the low sulphur? It would make sense, cause otherwise we will be rebuilding them about, what, every three to five years?

jim
 

mangus580

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Yes. There is a real good chance that an IP already has said seals. There is even a theory that any of the military pumps would already hvae them, as they are designed to burn a variety of fuels... (not quite multifuel, but a range just the same)
 
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return lines

I suspect that we'd have to change the injector return lines and fuel return lines off the IP as well.does anyone know how to identify the stainless or "hardened" IP's? they were supposedly installed to allow continued use with Jet-A etcetera.These probably would have the upgraded seals installed as original equipment.
The term "hardened" is something i picked up off another site,and it's possible that all original military issued IP"s were toughened up to allow use of low lubricity fuels on a continuous basis.
Confirmation would be cool.just have to change the external rubber lines and carry extra filters for awhile.
 

ken

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I tried some commerical made bio in my 82 3/4ton with a 6.2 and a banks turbo. I wasen't impressed. I lost a lot of power and milage. Although the engine started and ran great. I havent tried it since. The commerically made stuff cost too much. When diesel goes back up. I'll give it another shot.
 

cranetruck

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Please, be more specific, Ken, there is more oxygen available with bio and you should actually see a power increase. Higher lubricity too.
With the multi, there is virtually no difference in power despite the decrease in the fuel delivery (courtesy of the FDC) and the EGT is slightly cooler.
We need numbers to be able to compare notes. :)
 

ken

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Bjorn, The stuff i bought was B99 from a commerical supplier in houston.
I haven't tried it in my multifuel, only my pickup truck. It's a 82, 3/4ton with a "J" series 6.2 and a banks turbo. I normally get 20 mpg at 60mph.
I only tried 1 tankfull, it took 18 gallons so the tank was close to empty. I got 16MPG and a noticable difference in power. Although the truck ran smoothly and started easily it just didn't have the normal power. It wasen't cold outside (about 60 deg) i don't know if that makes a difference. I'm planning on tring a tankful in my car to see how it likes it.
Who knows, mabye i got a bad batch? I don't think there is any regulation on this stuff yet.
 

cranetruck

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Thanks for the update Ken!
I use "unwashed" biodiesel, so it also contains a fair amount of methanol, about 3%, from what I read. That may make a difference in power/mpg.
 

n1vbn

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Bjorn,

Why don't you seperate the methanol? Granted you'd lose a small amount of power but think of the benefit you'd gain. You could very easily recycle the methanol for reuse and reduce how much methanol you would need to purchase thereby reducing your cost per gallon of biodiesel produced. Are you removing the glycerin byproduct to remove the methanol from it? Think of how much soap you can produce for home use.

There is a local fellow up here that makes his own bioDiesel and his wife now handles the soap making process and sells it at flea markets...it's easy for her as there are people now waiting for her to show up so they can buy soap. Sadly she claims all the money she gets as HERS!!! :=)

I am going to install a "greasecar" kit in my M-1009 this Summer by Greasecar Systems at http://www.greasecar.com/index.cfm

I have been checking around and already found one resturant that produces 25 gallons of WVO per week they are willing to let me pick it up so long as I am reliable.

I read if the country planted 11,000 square miles of rapeseed plants we could 100% replace Dino Diesel nationwide. Food for thought. Yields of various plants here.

http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_yield.html
 

cranetruck

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James, no plans for trying to recover the methanol. Not enough volume to warrant the expense IMHO.
It may be an advantage to have some in the biodiesel, it keeps glycerin in suspension and takes care of any water that may be present in the fuel. Yes, an alcohol in diesel fuel changes the flash point and cetane value, but so far my truck runs beautifully on 100% unwashed biodiesel or mixtures of bio and veggie oil.
The boiling point of methanol is only 148 deg F and my biggest concern is for it to boil off in a hot fuel tank and become a fire hazard. Don't know how hot the fuel will get, but it may get close.

I have lots of glycerin, probably about 30 gallons. Used some for soap bars and simply burn some. I'm using Sodium Hydroxide (lye), so it hardens after a few weeks, which makes it easy to handle.
Know about greasecar forum, I post there from time to time, but those guys have mostly 100% veggie oil systems.
I'm interested in problems that may lead to injector coking. Posted a question to that effect (greasecar.com), but don't have any real answers yet.
Coking may become a concern for you in New Hampshire if you don't purge the system completely, but it's probably a long term process, so most "greasers" havn't had the problem yet.

Still learning....
 

ken

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I went down to houston biodiesel on fri and filled my truck with 37 gallons of B99. I've driven 170 miles so far and used about half of the drivers side tank. I changed both fuel filters before i went. I've noticed a drop in power when getting on the freeway. Cold starts are i little tougher also. I've noticed a lot less "knock" when warming up in the morning.
So far i'm happier with this run of bio. I tried it out last fall and wasen't impressed. I think the warmer outside temp makes a big difference. I have a banks turbo on this engine also and noticed that i can only get 8 lbs of boost instead of 11.
At $2.50 a gallon i think it was worth it.
 

rizzo

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ken said:
I went down to houston biodiesel on fri and filled my truck with 37 gallons of B99. I've driven 170 miles so far and used about half of the drivers side tank. I changed both fuel filters before i went. I've noticed a drop in power when getting on the freeway. Cold starts are i little tougher also. I've noticed a lot less "knock" when warming up in the morning.
So far i'm happier with this run of bio. I tried it out last fall and wasen't impressed. I think the warmer outside temp makes a big difference. I have a banks turbo on this engine also and noticed that i can only get 8 lbs of boost instead of 11.
At $2.50 a gallon i think it was worth it.
are you still happy with the banks?
 
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