• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Windshield Frame Seal

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
What is it that makes such a simple thing so confusing.....???:?


G.
Mainly post #14 up there disagreeing with you but I've certainly come to trust your advice. I do take his point about the windshield frame being beveled to match, though. That's what gave me a seed of doubt.
 

Wildchild467

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,052
56
48
Location
Milford / Michigan
Has anybody experienced a difference in the imported seals vs. the NOS seals (P/N 7373325 ). If so what suppliers have either the imported or NOS? I would like to get new seals for my truck and would like to research it before i make a purchase. I also noticed there is an additional seal (P/N 8741839 ) at the top that is about 1/4" in diameter that gets clamped in the windshield frame. does anybody have any experience with the round seal at the top?
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
OK the first one is done. Once you get the technique figured out, it isn't too bad. Also I used "personal lubricant" (water-based) instead of soap, and that seemed to work real well.

THANKS!
 

Tinwoodsman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,923
75
48
Location
Comfort, Texas
Hmm! KY Jelly works? :oops:

As for the upper seal. I found some round foam insulation but it does not have to be round. Just about anything would work once the plate is screwed in place.
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
I just realized something: the glass shop I went to left out the rubber strips around the panes. They said they had something that fit better. But I can see now that part of the function of those rubber strips was to keep water out of the frames. Without them...maybe some kind of glazing or sealant? Silicone in OD green?
 

gringeltaube

Staff Member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,884
2,264
113
Location
Montevideo/Uruguay
Unless you were assembling your inner WS's with OEM parts only and "fresh made" rubber stripes..., these would never again fit (and seal) like the first day! Especially not after an old, rusty frame has been restored...
Even on the original WS-assys they usually end up collecting rainwater in the lower frame portion and keep the moisture inside, doing its business...

So far I have restored X-many of these inner WS and never felt the need for those stripes; even less trying to find a source for new replacements.

Without anything else the glass should- and normally does- fit a bit loose inside the frame assembly; so just use some tape to hold it evenly spaced; then get a gun & tube of PU-based sealant; make a nice, continuous bead - all around 4 sides, both faces; let it cure; next day carefully cut off excess material; eventually touch-up lacquer scratches, or spray-paint the whole part after masking the glass...
End-result: as good as new, or better!

Stay away from anything silicon-based as sealant, there! (It will be VERY difficult to ever paint those frames again, at the least...!)


G.
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
then get a gun & tube of PU-based sealant; make a nice, continuous bead - all around 4 sides, both faces; let it cure; next day carefully cut off excess material; eventually touch-up lacquer scratches, or spray-paint the whole part after masking the glass...
End-result: as good as new, or better!

Stay away from anything silicon-based as sealant, there! (It will be VERY difficult to ever paint those frames again, at the least...!)


G.
I think I've asked you this before but PU=Polyurethane?
 

Dipstick

Well-known member
1,101
1,266
113
Location
Effort PA
ANGRET.....thanks!!! I'm going to have to do this myself. Your pictures and instructions will be a big help.
 

blisters13

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
454
68
28
Location
Beaumont in SoCal
Lots of good info here, THANKS to all for helping make this less difficult.

Can anyone explain the deal with the hardware for the inner windshield frames? I want to replace some of the screws but what look like OEM screws don't thread onto 8-32 or 10-32 nuts, nor do they thread onto metric. Are they some odd mil-spec size and threads-per-inch / threads-per-milimeter? Or do I just have cheaply-made production hardware?

THANKS for any info on this; been to two fastener companies with no resolution (pissin' me off!).

-Ken
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
Not sure which screws you are referring to? If you mean the screws that hold the windshields to the frame, I can go look that up. I have a bag of them in the garage.
 

bigmike

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,004
354
83
Location
Dixon CA.
I'm not sure either what hardware issue you are having. I just rebuilt both windshields, including replacing all hardware. Nothing unique that I found. It was all english.
 

blisters13

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
454
68
28
Location
Beaumont in SoCal
JCKnife: Yes, the over-sized hex-head screws which hold the inner windshield frame hinge to the outer windshield frame which have captive internal/external lock washers.

bigmike: OK, thanks. I took a screw out of the "L" brackets which hold the single top piece to the three-sided bottom piece and thinking it was 8-32 tried to thread in a new 8-32 screw but that one would not get past two threads. So I tried an 8-32 nut on the original screw and it wouldn't go on more than a couple of threads either. The pitch is definitely not 24, and the diameter is definitely not #10 nor #6, so I guessed maybe metric. Nothing metric fit either; that's why I posted this. Same for the hinge screws, seem like 10-32's but they don't thread into 10-32 nuts. I also tried an English (standard) thread pitch gauge but none of the gauges settled into the threads on either screw and so I guessed metric.

I'll just chase threads with standard taps.

THANKS guys!
 
Last edited:

gringeltaube

Staff Member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,884
2,264
113
Location
Montevideo/Uruguay
Don't know about your truck but.... from factory at least, there are no metric (and no mystery) bolts/ screws/ threads to be found on Deuces!

Are any of these the ones in question.....? Then all you need are the right taps to eventually clean the correponding threaded holes.




G.
 

Attachments

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
They are 10-32x1/2" If you PM me your address I'll send you a handful. Minimum buy at McMaster Carr was 100. They have the captive star washer.
 

gringeltaube

Staff Member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,884
2,264
113
Location
Montevideo/Uruguay
Wait a minute - blisters13, I just re-read your last post: you don't happen to have one of those "cheap-chin" aftermarket inner WS-frames? Those in fact come with all metric hardware! So the referred screw holding the adjuster to the inner WS is a M6x1.00. Just confirmed this, again... (I had already forgotten about those $260 NIB-Super-POS-Junk-WS frames I bought years ago, which probably never will be installed!)


G.
 

blisters13

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
454
68
28
Location
Beaumont in SoCal
I don't THINK they're repros; I think it's just an issue of low-quality, quickly-assembled parts.

BTW, are the top bow supposed to be all the same height or do the outer two of the five sit lower? A couple of my bows are not the same height as the others.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks