You have an A2 truck.Turn the pump and gov springs. You only lose 300rpms going from 1400 to 1200s. You can run up to 72mph. The 12.00s are rated to 75mph.
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Duals on M929A2
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TaylorTradingCo
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I don't understand the last picture from the side showing both axles/tires from the side. It looks as if the rear axle does not have any lug nuts holding it on?
It was just a mockup showing where they would sit. They require 5 to 6in studs. And you cant use thimbles to secure the inner wheels
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Mos68x
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I had assumed that it was more than a mockup. Do the inner wheels still center up correctly on the axles?
They are hub piloted. You actually use the type of studs used on my m322 trailer they are long and are snug on the stud holes on the wheel. Face to face mount the wheels. Ill post some pics shortly.
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I think the pilot issue has been discussed already but I'm not sure of the outcome. If going to 1" bolts, there would be hub machining involved also.
Wes, is the center hole tight around the hub to be "hub piloted".
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Okay, your post beat mine....I'm glad to hear they are hub piloting.
I had a picture of my bolt solution but it's dropped off. I'll take another.
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Does that mean your drilling out the hub and brake drum, for the larger stud? It's 1" isn't it?
Mos68x
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I'm curious know as well, sounds like it could be worth the effort so long as I'm not deviating too far from the beaten path so to speak.
Wheels are 1inch thick. These are the studs you will need and lug nuts. 4inch long overall. My mockup had a half inch spacer behind the inner tire to sit it out further. So the 4inch stud would be enough.
If you want to run 395 duals. My suggestion to cut down on width is to run the aluminum Hutchinson inside with a 1 inch spacer behind it. Then using a stock LMTV wheel but knocking all the long beadlock studs out and swapping to the short stubs they use for CTIS all The way around. This gives you the flat face and it will mate to the hutchinson wheel. This mounting would work cause the other beadlock ring would slip over the beadlock face of the inner wheel allowing it to get closer. And 6in studs
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If you want to run 395 duals. My suggestion to cut down on width is to run the aluminum Hutchinson inside with a 1 inch spacer behind it. Then using a stock LMTV wheel but knocking all the long beadlock studs out and swapping to the short stubs they use for CTIS all The way around. This gives you the flat face and it will mate to the hutchinson wheel. This mounting would work cause the other beadlock ring would slip over the beadlock face of the inner wheel allowing it to get closer. And 6in studs
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Also 12.00s are only 12.3in wide. And 44in tall. For those playing at home 12.00-20 means 12inches of tire. 20in of wheel and 12 inches of tire.
1 inch on top and 1 inch on bottom difference from a 395. 2 inch on top and 2 in on bottom from a 14.00
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1 inch on top and 1 inch on bottom difference from a 395. 2 inch on top and 2 in on bottom from a 14.00
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Thanks Wes for your help here. Lets get back to mounting the rim that you described as " aluminum Hutchenson beadlock dual type wheel" and the 12.00 tire. Is there a model designation for this wheel type?
I just looked and see that the rear hubs on my 929 have a tab that sticks out for hub piloting, at least on the metal thickness of the combat rim (singles). It only sticks out about 3/8" however, so can't be considered to be a pilot for the outer wheel, at least on my 5 ton. Your trailer pictures show a lot longer pilot.
The bolt size in my truck is 3/4-16, but on my Hutchinson steel wheel (not what is on the truck) (also considered hub piloted) the opening is 1", thus the spacer I made. What is the hole size on the tubeless duals and is it tapered on either side? Some aluminums have a conical bevel and a nut that matches. Here is a nut (happens to be left handed so not on my bolt) for 3/4"-16. The rim hole would be 1 1/8".
Edit; Looking back I see the photo of the dual tubeless rim and see the hole is a straight hole. Is it 1" dia.?
I just looked and see that the rear hubs on my 929 have a tab that sticks out for hub piloting, at least on the metal thickness of the combat rim (singles). It only sticks out about 3/8" however, so can't be considered to be a pilot for the outer wheel, at least on my 5 ton. Your trailer pictures show a lot longer pilot.
The bolt size in my truck is 3/4-16, but on my Hutchinson steel wheel (not what is on the truck) (also considered hub piloted) the opening is 1", thus the spacer I made. What is the hole size on the tubeless duals and is it tapered on either side? Some aluminums have a conical bevel and a nut that matches. Here is a nut (happens to be left handed so not on my bolt) for 3/4"-16. The rim hole would be 1 1/8".
Edit; Looking back I see the photo of the dual tubeless rim and see the hole is a straight hole. Is it 1" dia.?
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Mos68x
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What truck is those pics from? Looks nothing at all like my 939 axles
The top one is the rim we are talking about showing the 1" thick. Notice the lip on the one side of that center hole? ....Hmmmm. You can see that it's bolt hole is a straight hole ...just what size?
The bottom 3 are his trailer. I'm not sure if he meant to post them as I don't see the connection either, well except for the 3/4" studs.
The bottom 3 are his trailer. I'm not sure if he meant to post them as I don't see the connection either, well except for the 3/4" studs.
That is the hub of my M322 trailer. Take everything that you are trying to do to a 5 ton and basically imagine that that trailer hub is your 5 ton hub. Make sense? I hardly have the motivation at 95 degrees to take a 5 ton hub off, knock out 10 studs, press 10 back in, reassemble and then do all this when I don't have all the wheels and tires available. Ok so using the trailer since it has the same stud pattern. Just that the trailer is hub piloted. Just like the Hutchinson beadlocks. as you can see in the picture from the flanged cap nut marks on the wheel it is a hub piloted wheel. meaning it is not beveled for the normal 5 ton lug nuts we use. Face to face flush mount. Nothing between them. Especially no thimbles. And studs still have plenty of thread left on them.
Basically you are turning the rear of the 5 ton into a HUB piloted setup. You are going to use the same type of wheel studs that the trailer is using to allow the wheel to fit snug. It is a metric one that the trailer uses M22x1.5. You can however find it so that the serration is the same as what comes on the 5 ton. 1/2" long serration is pretty common on everything. Just have to have the right Knurl size. Knurl size on a 5 ton is .998"-.1006".
If you feel ambitious enough to do it all simply place the wheel on the studs and get it correctly measured and evened out and weld flat pieces to the hub face so that it basically has the right spot for it to sit making it a true hub pilot.
My Euclid catalog is like 400 pages on wheel studs and size charts and honestly I am not in the mood to go crosseyed at the moment to throw out all the part numbers.
Basically you are turning the rear of the 5 ton into a HUB piloted setup. You are going to use the same type of wheel studs that the trailer is using to allow the wheel to fit snug. It is a metric one that the trailer uses M22x1.5. You can however find it so that the serration is the same as what comes on the 5 ton. 1/2" long serration is pretty common on everything. Just have to have the right Knurl size. Knurl size on a 5 ton is .998"-.1006".
If you feel ambitious enough to do it all simply place the wheel on the studs and get it correctly measured and evened out and weld flat pieces to the hub face so that it basically has the right spot for it to sit making it a true hub pilot.
My Euclid catalog is like 400 pages on wheel studs and size charts and honestly I am not in the mood to go crosseyed at the moment to throw out all the part numbers.
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Mos68x
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My bad, I do believe you did say it was your trailer, I just obviously wasn't thinkin straight and I don't blame you at all for not wanting to get out in the heat for something you cant finish anyways.That is the hub of my M322 trailer. Take everything that you are trying to do to a 5 ton and basically imagine that that trailer hub is your 5 ton hub. Make sense? I hardly have the motivation at 95 degrees to take a 5 ton hub off, knock out 10 studs, press 10 back in, reassemble and then do all this when I don't have all the wheels and tires available. Ok so using the trailer since it has the same stud pattern. Just that the trailer is hub piloted. Just like the Hutchinson beadlocks. as you can see in the picture from the flanged cap nut marks on the wheel it is a hub piloted wheel. meaning it is not beveled for the normal 5 ton lug nuts we use. Face to face flush mount. Nothing between them. Especially no thimbles. And studs still have plenty of thread left on them.
Basically you are turning the rear of the 5 ton into a HUB piloted setup. You are going to use the same type of wheel studs that the trailer is using to allow the wheel to fit snug. It is a metric one that the trailer uses M22x1.5. You can however find it so that the serration is the same as what comes on the 5 ton. 1/2" long serration is pretty common on everything. Just have to have the right Knurl size. Knurl size on a 5 ton is .998"-.1006".
If you feel ambitious enough to do it all simply place the wheel on the studs and get it correctly measured and evened out and weld flat pieces to the hub face so that it basically has the right spot for it to sit making it a true hub pilot.
My Euclid catalog is like 400 pages on wheel studs and size charts and honestly I am not in the mood to go crosseyed at the moment to throw out all the part numbers.
If the hub mating flange on the wheel is 1" as your picture shows then I would rather slight modify the wheels instead. Yes, they are aluminum but I'm only talking about putting a very slight chamfer on the stud holes so that it becomes stud centered instead of doing all the work to the hubs to make them hub centered instead. If I ever wear out a drum, yes unlikely but still possible, then I'd have to do the same work again to the new hubs since I likely wouldn't replace just one.
The other way, and probably what I would do, is use some high pressure grease like MolyB and lube the corners on the stud holes and impact on the lug nuts to create a slight chamfer. Yes, I would have to stop frequently for the first bit to make sure I tightened all those lug nuts. To make sure the inner wheel stayed centered I'd throw on lug nuts that were reversed so that the wheel could center itself on them. If I'm going to have replace the studs anyways I'll go a little longer to accommodate for them and I'd be an additional 1.5" wider. Going to be a real PITA but considering I'm looking at being close to 35k# that'll be too close to the max weight for the super single tears to handle.
Okay, I'm not into welding onto the hub but your comment Mos68x sparked me to start searching for studs. I came across this inner nut, which notes it is for aluminum to aluminum rims.
http://www.truckspring.com/products...-16-Thread-306-inch-long-Right__13-3026R.aspx
...which might require opening the holes on the rims and making a bevel, but is potentially usable with stock studs.
http://www.truckspring.com/products...-16-Thread-306-inch-long-Right__13-3026R.aspx
...which might require opening the holes on the rims and making a bevel, but is potentially usable with stock studs.
Mos68x
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Simp, I'm not tryin to fight ya over this, never was my intentions at all. I like the idea of duals in the rear for a wider and more stable stance as well as the increased weight loading. To each his own, I just don't like the idea having to custom mod each drum or hub. I don't mind pressing on and out new studs though as those are easy to do with little chance of changing how the wheels are centered to the axle.
I looked through the TMs and found the part number for the wheels studs on the trucks, left: 20X-1815-Z and right: 20X-1816-Z. Found general replacements on the web easy, however I haven't found any dimensions yet so that I could use Euclid's catalog, and they didn't have any of the part numbers listed in the catalog that I had found.
I looked through the TMs and found the part number for the wheels studs on the trucks, left: 20X-1815-Z and right: 20X-1816-Z. Found general replacements on the web easy, however I haven't found any dimensions yet so that I could use Euclid's catalog, and they didn't have any of the part numbers listed in the catalog that I had found.