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Mounting tires to wheels

riderdan

Member
315
20
18
Location
Central Kansas
All,

I've attempted to use the search feature here and I've googled without finding a definitive/satisfactory answer, so I'm turning to the experts...

My truck had two tires that needed to be replaced. One has a slow leak (air it up every two or three weeks) and another was down to 10% tread. So I bought a set of surplus tires (new enough that they still have the tits on them and with 90%+ tread) which arrived today.

One of them isn't actually mounted to the wheel--it's over, but the bead isn't set. And there's no run-flat or beadlock or o-ring in it. So here are my questions...

Is it possible to run the military tires without beadlocks or runflats? Is it inherently unsafe, or just not recommended?

I assume it's not possible to get the tire to seal to the wheel without an o-ring, is that correct? So I'd need at least an o-ring to get this tire mounted on the wheel...

Thanks!
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,095
9,256
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Location
Mason, TN
All,

I've attempted to use the search feature here and I've googled without finding a definitive/satisfactory answer, so I'm turning to the experts...

My truck had two tires that needed to be replaced. One has a slow leak (air it up every two or three weeks) and another was down to 10% tread. So I bought a set of surplus tires (new enough that they still have the tits on them and with 90%+ tread) which arrived today.

One of them isn't actually mounted to the wheel--it's over, but the bead isn't set. And there's no run-flat or beadlock or o-ring in it. So here are my questions...

Is it possible to run the military tires without beadlocks or runflats? Is it inherently unsafe, or just not recommended?

I assume it's not possible to get the tire to seal to the wheel without an o-ring, is that correct? So I'd need at least an o-ring to get this tire mounted on the wheel...

Thanks!
I will have an oring shipped to you. I was told they were both mounted and air'd up. You can run them without beadlocks or run flats. You can have them just as a normal car tire setup. On Alot of the bigger truck tires people do not install the beadlock insert or runflat cause its too much of a PITA to transfer it from an old tire. Plus the runflat is just extra weight. Safety sake some folks want them on steers tires. Some dont.

Pm me your address and i will get it mailed to you monday.



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Last edited:

ryanruck

Active member
427
43
28
Location
Cincinnati, OH
My opinion, you should at the least, run some PVC beadlocks otherwise you don't want to get below 20 PSI or you risk throwing the bead because of the design of the 16.5" wheel. This isn't strictly on the subject of the thread as it shows why you cannot use 16" tires on a 16.5" wheel but, it does show the shallower taper of the flange of a 16.5" wheel. You can see how it would be more prone to slipping off in a low pressure situation and it needs adequate pressure to keep the bead secure.

16.5warning.gif

Consider this though, 15 PSI is on the high side for some off road terrain. Some terrain, like sand or rock crawling, you could easily need to be down to low single digit PSI. You cannot get down to the pressures you need without beadlocks. Good article on off road tire pressure.

Without beadlocks or runflats, it's also tougher to mount the tires and seat the bead on your own. With the beadlocks or runflats you just get them in between the beads and then bolt the wheel together at home. Without you'll need to take it to a tire shop or try using starting fluid, which can get exciting!

Personally I like the peace of mind the runflat offers. If I get a flat on the road or on the trail, it gives me the ability to get to a place that's safe to change a tire. If I have a blowout at highway speed, it's a lot easier to keep control of. A blowout on a tire as large as these without a runflat can be a handful trying to keep control of.
 

riderdan

Member
315
20
18
Location
Central Kansas
My opinion, you should at the least, run some PVC beadlocks otherwise you don't want to get below 20 PSI or you risk throwing the bead because of the design of the 16.5" wheel. This isn't strictly on the subject of the thread as it shows why you cannot use 16" tires on a 16.5" wheel but, it does show the shallower taper of the flange of a 16.5" wheel. You can see how it would be more prone to slipping off in a low pressure situation and it needs adequate pressure to keep the bead secure.

View attachment 707689

Consider this though, 15 PSI is on the high side for some off road terrain. Some terrain, like sand or rock crawling, you could easily need to be down to low single digit PSI. You cannot get down to the pressures you need without beadlocks. Good article on off road tire pressure.

Without beadlocks or runflats, it's also tougher to mount the tires and seat the bead on your own. With the beadlocks or runflats you just get them in between the beads and then bolt the wheel together at home. Without you'll need to take it to a tire shop or try using starting fluid, which can get exciting!

Personally I like the peace of mind the runflat offers. If I get a flat on the road or on the trail, it gives me the ability to get to a place that's safe to change a tire. If I have a blowout at highway speed, it's a lot easier to keep control of. A blowout on a tire as large as these without a runflat can be a handful trying to keep control of.
Thanks for the info. I don't drive my truck on the highway, and I don't air down the tires, so those probably aren't a big issue for me.
For the moment, I'll put the wheel that has the run-flat in it on the front and the one without on as a spare. Then when I get beadlocks I can take the run-flats out of all four... it's amazing the difference in weight between the run-flat wheels and the "empty." Dealing with getting the run-flat in and out of a tire is more than I'm up for, I think :)
 

riderdan

Member
315
20
18
Location
Central Kansas
I will have an oring shipped to you. I was told they were both mounted and air'd up. You can run them without beadlocks or run flats. You can have them just as a normal car tire setup. On Alot of the bigger truck tires people do not install the beadlock insert or runflat cause its too much of a PITA to transfer it from an old tire. Plus the runflat is just extra weight. Safety sake some folks want them on steers tires. Some dont.
Pm me your address and i will get it mailed to you monday.
Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
Thanks man.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,095
9,256
113
Location
Mason, TN
Thanks for the info. I don't drive my truck on the highway, and I don't air down the tires, so those probably aren't a big issue for me.
For the moment, I'll put the wheel that has the run-flat in it on the front and the one without on as a spare. Then when I get beadlocks I can take the run-flats out of all four... it's amazing the difference in weight between the run-flat wheels and the "empty." Dealing with getting the run-flat in and out of a tire is more than I'm up for, I think :)
If someone has a forklift it makes it easy.

https://youtu.be/qlzSljf1h1g

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jackson76550

New member
116
1
0
Location
sealy tx
you may not air down your tires, but nails and other objects will without your permission. 16.5 wheels do not have what I call a safety bead, the tire will simply fall off the rim vs having to break the bead on most other rim sizes. in fact if it goes flat overnight it may break its own bead and then you have to at least jack the truck up to even get air in it. any 16.5 wheel will have the same characteristics. as far as dealing with runflats...... have access to an engine hoist?
 

LouWon

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
406
85
28
Location
Michigan
I did my wheels at home, it is fairly easy to do, first spend $60.00 on a tire inflator or beader, I bought on from Amazon
Get a gallon of Ru glyde from Napa and use a sprayer
Deflate the tire / remove bolts and spray Ru glide around both side of the bead
I used a sledge hammer and lightly pounded around the rim, once the Ru glyde gets in between the rim and tire , it's slides off.
Replace the tire and use grease on the o-ring and more +++ Ru glyde on the tire bead
You will need a locking air chuck, then turn the valve side of the tire facing down, use something to support the rim, so the tire pressure will be on the bottom
Turn the pressure on the tire chuck and use the beader, and you should be done, once the rim is off the truck I can change a tire in about 20mins
We have discount tires here in MI, they will balance up to 40", they charge about 20.00 per tire to balance

611KTDPbbJL._SL1200_.jpg download.jpgRuGlyde_Tire_Mounting_Lubricant_-_Rubber_Based_-_Balkamp_2.jpg
 

ryanruck

Active member
427
43
28
Location
Cincinnati, OH
So while we are on the topic, anyone ever had theirs balanced? Possible to do with the run flat? Possible at all?
Yes, just find a place that uses a Hunter Road Force machine. They can handle tires as large as ours. Otherwise you'll just hear a lot of, "We can't do ones that big." The Road Force machine can do up to 42"x18" tires, if I recall correctly.

If you run into an issue with them not being able to get one to balance, you'll probably have to rotate the tire on the wheel a bit and try again. All 5 of mine balanced except 1 that I had to adjust.

That said, they're still not perfect and I'll get a little bounce now and then. Looking to pick up some Centramatics to help smooth things out some more at some point.

You cannot use balancing media in these as you're supposed to have runflat grease inside them (prevents excessive friction if you ever have to use the runflats) which the media would stick to. Of course if you ditch the runflats and run the PVC beadlocks, you can use balancing media no problem.
 

Sintorion

Member
286
13
18
Location
Fla
You can as stated run them without the bead locks. The 16.5 was used by the big 3 in the late 70s OE without bead locks. I have ran them around 10psi in mud without losing a bead. Probably wouldn't go that low on rocks without a bead lock.
 
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