Turbo Questions

[dbesade]

Hello All-

Long time reader, first time poster. I have a 1968 Kaiser M35A2, and the Turbo is leaking badly around the v-band. I'm planning to send the Turbo off to a shop (J&H) to be rebuilt.. but I'm wondering what I should replace while I'm in there. This is the list I have so far:

1. Turbo Mounting Gasket
2. Silicone Connectors
3. Slobber Tube Gasket
4. Exhaust Gasket

Anything I should be prepared for when I take it off?

-David
Blachly, OR

 

[Speedwoble]

I drilled and tapped a pipe thread plug for future EGT while the turbo was off. Then plugged the hole with a stainless steel plug. When I eventually got around to adding an EGT probe I didn’t have to worry about getting the chips out while drilling.

 

[dbesade]

I drilled and tapped a pipe thread plug for future EGT while the turbo was off. Then plugged the hole with a stainless steel plug. When I eventually got around to adding an EGT probe I didn’t have to worry about getting the chips out while drilling.

That is a great suggestion- though I don't plan to fiddle with the Fuel, so I wonder if I really need the EGT if I'm leaving everything "stock".

-Dave

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yeah, Its good to know if your going to melt your motor. You never know what was done before it got to you.

 

[dbesade]

Bump

So-

I got the turbo off without too much trouble, but the rear turbo mounting studs (Front are Nut/Bolt) on the exhaust manifold snapped when trying to remove the locknuts. Does anyone know the part number for those, and if they are replaceable, or if I should replace the entire exhaust manifold (God... I hope not).

-Dave

 

[cattlerepairman]

Nah..the studs rust and then snap off. It is a bit of a pain with the manifold installed but basically you drill them out. If you can drill through what's left of the stud, leaving only a thin layer of stud behind, you have a chance to get the piece out without damaging the threads. If you have to go wild and damage the threads, just, re-tap the holes and screw new studs in. They are a standard part that most automotive places carry. You can also drill them out and replace with nut-bolt as in the front.

I also recommend speding the extra few bucks and getting copper nuts for the turbo (and exhaust manifold if you ever take it off). They do not seize.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Here is the info about the studs: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?151122-Exhaust-manifold-stud

 

[gimpyrobb]

I've got spare exhaust mani if you decide to go that route.

 

[dbesade]

I've got spare exhaust mani if you decide to go that route.

PM me... just might be good to have that as an option... just went through this with the Water Manifolds too .

 

[M543A2]

We religiously use anti-seize on every bolt or nut we install. Put it full length on every water manifold bolt, they get corroded in place in the aluminum manifold if you do not then the head twists off. It would be wise to pull the water manifold bolts one at a time and anti-seize them while you still can.

 

[dbesade]

We religiously use anti-seize on every bolt or nut we install. Put it full length on every water manifold bolt, they get corroded in place in the aluminum manifold if you do not then the head twists off. It would be wise to pull the water manifold bolts one at a time and anti-seize them while you still can.

Oh yeah, when I was replacing the coolant hoses I ran into that. I replaced with Stainless hardware and used anti-seize on them. I ended up having to replace one of the 2 manifolds. Every bit of maintenance on this rig ends up being 3 things to complete one thing .. (Like replacing the Water Manifold and hardware to replace the coolant hoses )

So I have a local shop here in Oregon (Oregon Fuel Injection) that is a Borg-Warner shop and is familiar with the 3LM series (D Turbo's). Happy to pass along their info to anyone in the PNW if its needed. I'm looking at having to pull the exhaust manifold and likely replacing the hardware while I'm there.... at least I can do the work inside.

-Dave

-Dave