• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M1078 Alternator Problem

M

mechanicjim

Member
90
40
18
Location
Chicago il
the 14V that is on the Regulators is limited to 50 amps Or should be limited basically it can give more but then you run the risk of overheating the thing). the 14v studs on the Alts them selves outputs are based on 28v load and are specific to each unit, some give more some give less.
 
Duckworthe

Duckworthe

Member
329
23
18
Location
San Diego, Ca
xomegaiv said:
Works flawlessly. The only regret is not finding Ron from double alternator any sooner. I bought a replacement original and it didn't last either. If you are having problems with your FMTV alternator the double alternator from Ron is the way to go. It's built with off the shelf parts so it's easy to repair if need be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
You purchased the Double-alt.com unit and installed it? What wiring mods did you have to do to use his alt? I don't have a problem using it but I do have concerns about dropping it in place of mine and frying something in my truck. I can't risk damaging my truck to try a new product. To risky to my pocket book! Was it really just a plug and play install, As it just install the 12 / 24v and ground leads and not use the regulator + supply and field wire off the regulator? Please let me know if this is the case. If it is I might get one also.
 
xomegaiv

xomegaiv

Member
47
3
8
Location
Yuma, AZ
Duckworthe said:
You purchased the Double-alt.com unit and installed it? What wiring mods did you have to do to use his alt? I don't have a problem using it but I do have concerns about dropping it in place of mine and frying something in my truck. I can't risk damaging my truck to try a new product. To risky to my pocket book! Was it really just a plug and play install, As it just install the 12 / 24v and ground leads and not use the regulator + supply and field wire off the regulator? Please let me know if this is the case. If it is I might get one also.
Click to expand...
Complete plug and play. All I used was the 12/24/Ground leads already on the truck. Been running that alternator a few thousand miles already with no electrical issues. The fact that’s off-the-shelf parts, it can be rebuilt anywhere in the world. You can’t do that with the original alternator. Give Rob a call, you won’t regret it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
xomegaiv

xomegaiv

Member
47
3
8
Location
Yuma, AZ
aleigh said:
"plug and play", I thought that you had to change the battery array configuration to make it work (per another thread). Am I mistaken?
Click to expand...
I didn’t change a thing ... I still get the charging system light in the dash but the system is charging fine. The light is from the load and battery control box.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
aleigh

aleigh

Well-known member
1,040
53
48
Location
Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
xomegaiv said:
I didn’t change a thing ... I still get the charging system light in the dash but the system is charging fine. The light is from the load and battery control box.
Click to expand...
So... you can't tell if the batteries are charging or not when driving down the road? Or are you telling yourself you can from the voltage gauge, which I suppose would be true.
 
Duckworthe

Duckworthe

Member
329
23
18
Location
San Diego, Ca
Sounds to me that he is saying that the voltage gauge is showing voltage but on the dash has a voltage warning light is aluminated? like driving with a check engine light on in a newer vehicle. I'm I reading you right?
 
M

mechanicjim

Member
90
40
18
Location
Chicago il
it can happen if he didn't run a wire to the AC line of the LBCD, on the original setup the AC terminal of the ALT was sent to the LBCD and the LBCD would send out the signal to turn On/Off dash warning light. the LBCD was built by C.E.Niehoff to work together with the original Alts. the dash Gauge maybe getting it values from another source I don't know off hand.
 
xomegaiv

xomegaiv

Member
47
3
8
Location
Yuma, AZ
aleigh said:
So... you can't tell if the batteries are charging or not when driving down the road? Or are you telling yourself you can from the voltage gauge, which I suppose would be true.
Click to expand...
Tested all my gauges and most of them work ... but in all seriousness I been keeping an eye on the batteries this whole time. Been to Cabo and back with the same alternator. If they weren’t charging I would still be in Cabo lol. It works perfect. Just have to try it out if you don’t believe me. I make no money advertising Ron. Just trying to help out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
xomegaiv

xomegaiv

Member
47
3
8
Location
Yuma, AZ
mechanicjim said:
it can happen if he didn't run a wire to the AC line of the LBCD, on the original setup the AC terminal of the ALT was sent to the LBCD and the LBCD would send out the signal to turn On/Off dash warning light. the LBCD was built by C.E.Niehoff to work together with the original Alts. the dash Gauge maybe getting it values from another source I don't know off hand.
Click to expand...
If I connect the AC cable to the 12v alt terminal, will that shutoff the light?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
M

mechanicjim

Member
90
40
18
Location
Chicago il
no the voltage would be close as the AC terminal is 1/2 system voltage (on 28V base that's 14V) but the output is an AC voltage not a DC voltage like the 12v terminal is so the LBCD might miss read it.
 
1951M1078

1951M1078

Well-known member
1,018
185
63
Location
Glendale,AZ
I have lost my voltage regulator and their are some out their but the $$$ seam high ? So I have been looking at the wiring of the regulator. It looks like the field is controlled but only on the 28V side. But nothing on the 14V side ?

When my replacement regulator gets here I'm going to pull the old one apart (melt the potting) and see what failed and can it be repaired or can a regulator be built for less ?

Anybody look into this ?
 
M

mechanicjim

Member
90
40
18
Location
Chicago il
1951M1078 said:
I have lost my voltage regulator and their are some out their but the $$$ seam high ? So I have been looking at the wiring of the regulator. It looks like the field is controlled but only on the 28V side. But nothing on the 14V side ?

When my replacement regulator gets here I'm going to pull the old one apart (melt the potting) and see what failed and can it be repaired or can a regulator be built for less ?

Anybody look into this ?
Click to expand...

Yes the field coil runs on 28v so the regulator just powers that, for the 14 they just cut the output to convert down the 14v for the other side.
As to price well it is a military specific part and that tends to add cost. And while you could open the thing and see how she runs if you get anyone to copy it you might run into Intellectual Property and such (the Alt and Regulators are an export controlled items). also beyond a mechanical failure which you might be able to fix there's still the software to deal with if that's broke you got a nice desk weight.
 
aleigh

aleigh

Well-known member
1,040
53
48
Location
Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
I might be over-simplifying here but I never understood why the alt puts out 14 at all. Why not just dump 28 into the batteries and pull the 12/14 by tapping them in half. I suppose it's so the truck can hypothetically run without batteries if it was jumped?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
114,400members
167,291threads
2,354,962posts
5,850online users
Top