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Easiest way to replace caliper lines?

warcow105

Member
100
4
18
Location
Lincoln Park, NJ
Hey guys, what's the easiest way to replace the rear caliper lines? It looks like getting to the T split is a little difficult, but that was only from a quick look.

Thanks for any helpful info
 
160
22
18
Location
San Antonio, TX
Removing the rear diff is what the TM will tell you, and that's a another pain. This is what I did. I had to cut a 4" hole above the T-fitting in order to place a wrench and hold in place. I then cut the two brake lines going into the T-fitting because the lines are being replace so who cares. Then placed a 1/4 ratchet and socket (3/16) to brake it loose. You have to be able to hold in place the T-fitting with a wrench and the hole allows for this. This will prevent damaging the supply line going into the bottom of T-fitting, which it will do if you cant hold it in place. To get in the location for the hole I placed a long extension with a drill bit and drilled from the bottom / underneath the vehicle up next to the T-fitting in order to find the correct location. Which I believe its 36" from the edge of the bed. Then use a hole bit to drill the 4" hole. After that you have access to the T-fitting. Sort of the same concept for replacing the fuel unit in the gas tank. I had an extra panel that I used for a patch. When I purchased my hmmwv it had fore holes for a fifth wheel I patched them up and replacing the brake lines happen to actually be in the same location.
 

warcow105

Member
100
4
18
Location
Lincoln Park, NJ
Removing the rear diff is what the TM will tell you, and that's a another pain. This is what I did. I had to cut a 4" hole above the T-fitting in order to place a wrench and hold in place. I then cut the two brake lines going into the T-fitting because the lines are being replace so who cares. Then placed a 1/4 ratchet and socket (3/16) to brake it loose. You have to be able to hold in place the T-fitting with a wrench and the hole allows for this. This will prevent damaging the supply line going into the bottom of T-fitting, which it will do if you cant hold it in place. To get in the location for the hole I placed a long extension with a drill bit and drilled from the bottom / underneath the vehicle up next to the T-fitting in order to find the correct location. Which I believe its 36" from the edge of the bed. Then use a hole bit to drill the 4" hole. After that you have access to the T-fitting. Sort of the same concept for replacing the fuel unit in the gas tank. I had an extra panel that I used for a patch. When I purchased my hmmwv it had fore holes for a fifth wheel I patched them up and replacing the brake lines happen to actually be in the same location.
I was actually thinking an access hole would be perfect, but before I saw your response I actually got 2 of the 3 fittings on the tee to come off. The last one I will remove when I get the line out. Right now in fighting with the caliper to get it out of the truck.

Who the hell designed this brake setup, everything is blocked or very limited access. Everything else on this truck is easy to work on. I have swapped engines in cars faster than this brake line is taking me lol.

Thanks
 

warcow105

Member
100
4
18
Location
Lincoln Park, NJ
Put flexible brake lines to the calipers when you put it back together.
I wish I would have gotten the flexible ones, I already had the hard ones on hand so they went in. I will get the flexible for the fronts though.

I don't know where this thing spent it's life before I got it, but the past 3 north jersey winters have done a number on it. All the protective paint on the underside of flaking off and everything is rusty now. I need to do a good cleaning and apply some por-15. Might just wait till next spring and do a body off job on it.
 
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