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No AC output

kloppk

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The image you posted is not the AC VR Test in the TM. That's a brief cheat sheet without the needed steps and conditions to correctly perform the tests.
The table of voltages listed on your sheet are approximately what one would measure IF the set was running, no load and outputting correct AC voltage.

Here IS the AC VR test procedure from the -24 TM...
Perform the steps and list the measurements for each measurement step.
For example..
Step h. 7.9 volts DC

1746194751529.png

1746194779898.png
 

240hippie

Member
43
9
8
Location
Maryland
The image you posted is not the AC VR Test in the TM. That's a brief cheat sheet without the needed steps and conditions to correctly perform the tests.
The table of voltages listed on your sheet are approximately what one would measure IF the set was running, no load and outputting correct AC voltage.

Here IS the AC VR test procedure from the -24 TM...
Perform the steps and list the measurements for each measurement step.
For example..
Step h. 7.9 volts DC

View attachment 945809

View attachment 945810
Thank you. I will not be able to perform this today, maybe not until Monday. We have major thunderstorms on the way. Hail last night. I will get back as soon as I can. Again thanks for the right docs.
 

240hippie

Member
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8
Location
Maryland
Thank you. I will not be able to perform this today, maybe not until Monday. We have major thunderstorms on the way. Hail last night. I will get back as soon as I can. Again thanks for the right docs.
OKAY a break in the weather. Test h., 22.7 vdc. Test j., 14.0 vac. Test L., 24.7 vac. Test n., Yes the potentiometer does adjust smoothly to 5000 ohms.
 

kloppk

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OK, your test h. result of 22.7 VDC confirms my suspicion that there is an open circuit from VR terminals 5,6 and the static exciter or a burned-out static exciter. Most likely it's a wiring/continuity issue and not the static exciter.

Here is the wiring path from VR terminal 5 to F- of the static exciter.
105x is just the base wire number stenciled on the wires.
1746199478935.png


Here is the wiring path from VR terminal 6 to F+ of the static exciter.
104x is just the base wire number stenciled on the wires.
1746199629223.png

Basically the wires run from the VR to terminal block 5. Then they run to the J5 connector in the "floor" behind the gauge panel.
P5 plugs into J5 below the floor.
The wires from P5 run into the generator head and are connected to a small block just inside the gen head. The wires have inline
butt connectors to connect to the wires that run into the gen head to the small block.
The two wires that actually go to the static exciter are also connected to the small block just inside the gen head.
The upper circled items 12 from the static exciter are connected to the block.
10 is the block.

Issues likely are...
- corrosion in the P5 or J5 connector pins
- P5/J5 are disconnected
- inline connection(s) to gen head are disconnected
- wire(s) are disconnected to the block or there is corrosion
- rodents chewed thru those wire right where they enter the gen head. Fairly common!

Least likely is that the static exciter is burned out.

1746200074595.png
 

240hippie

Member
43
9
8
Location
Maryland
OK, your test h. result of 22.7 VDC confirms my suspicion that there is an open circuit from VR terminals 5,6 and the static exciter or a burned-out static exciter. Most likely it's a wiring/continuity issue and not the static exciter.

Here is the wiring path from VR terminal 5 to F- of the static exciter.
105x is just the base wire number stenciled on the wires.
View attachment 945818


Here is the wiring path from VR terminal 6 to F+ of the static exciter.
104x is just the base wire number stenciled on the wires.
View attachment 945819

Basically the wires run from the VR to terminal block 5. Then they run to the J5 connector in the "floor" behind the gauge panel.
P5 plugs into J5 below the floor.
The wires from P5 run into the generator head and are connected to a small block just inside the gen head. The wires have inline
butt connectors to connect to the wires that run into the gen head to the small block.
The two wires that actually go to the static exciter are also connected to the small block just inside the gen head.
The upper circled items 12 from the static exciter are connected to the block.
10 is the block.

Issues likely are...
- corrosion in the P5 or J5 connector pins
- P5/J5 are disconnected
- inline connection(s) to gen head are disconnected
- wire(s) are disconnected to the block or there is corrosion
- rodents chewed thru those wire right where they enter the gen head. Fairly common!

Least likely is that the static exciter is burned out.

View attachment 945820
Okay, got that. The way it sounds with your "Most Likely Issues". Will I be able to get to all of these connections if I remove the main lug panel and the cover off of the generator end to look inside.? Am I on the right avenue to get to these problem connections? I will copy all of this, and let you know what I find. Thanks Rich
 

240hippie

Member
43
9
8
Location
Maryland
Okay, got that. The way it sounds with your "Most Likely Issues". Will I be able to get to all of these connections if I remove the main lug panel and the cover off of the generator end to look inside.? Am I on the right avenue to get to these problem connections? I will copy all of this, and let you know what I find. Thanks Rich
So, I have the cover off the gen head. I attached pics of it. Also of the other compartments. The VR. Nothing odd with figure 10. Wires look ok, did a tug test. Did not unplug, did not tug hard. Inside of head looks pretty decent, no nests.
 

Attachments

240hippie

Member
43
9
8
Location
Maryland
Now I'd try a continuity test from VR 5 and 6 to F+ and F- on the exciter board ( item #10 ) as Kurt indicates in his chart above.
If you find an open circuit on either wire, work backwards testing closer and closer to the VR until you find the disconnect point.
I will have to try that tomorrow. Out of time today. I did forget to send pics of J5,P5. Very clean connection. Dont know the pin size to do a drag test. Probably wouldn't have the correct one anyways. I did apply dielectric. Never hurts. My old unit patch is the last image. The dude that goes by guyfang is only 50k from my old barracks in Germany. Crazy the people you run into. I will do this next round asap.
 

Attachments

240hippie

Member
43
9
8
Location
Maryland
I will have to try that tomorrow. Out of time today. I did forget to send pics of J5,P5. Very clean connection. Dont know the pin size to do a drag test. Probably wouldn't have the correct one anyways. I did apply dielectric. Never hurts. My old unit patch is the last image. The dude that goes by guyfang is only 50k from my old barracks in Germany. Crazy the people you run into. I will do this next round asap.
Okay, found bad connection at #10 block. The butt connectors did not seem tight. Gave them a sqeeze and the AC gauge now reads 115v. hertz60. ONLY works on the convienience receptacle. I flip the AC Inturupter Swicth and it does not light. NO AC power out of the main lugs. Getting closer.
 

Chainbreaker

Well-known member
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Location
Oregon
So, I have the cover off the gen head. I attached pics of it. Also of the other compartments. The VR. Nothing odd with figure 10. Wires look ok, did a tug test. Did not unplug, did not tug hard. Inside of head looks pretty decent, no nests.
Ok, got an easy question... in reviewing the above photo's in Post #66, specifically IMG 20258.JPG... why are there scorch marks on what appears to be a fuse? Is that the one you mentioned earlier as "tested good"?
 

240hippie

Member
43
9
8
Location
Maryland
Ok, got an easy question... in reviewing the above photo's in Post #66, specifically IMG 20258.JPG... why are there scorch marks on what appears to be a fuse? Is that the one you mentioned earlier as "tested good"?
I dont think that is "scorch" marks. When I pulled the fuse and tested it, it was very clean. NO burn marks at all. Tested the fuse out of the holder and tested it in the holder, both ways. Their may be some tinting or age to the contacts, I will look at it again. I now have power reading on the vac volt gauge and power to the conveinience plug. Not to the lugs. But getting better.
 
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