MEP 802a no power at lugs making power before k1

[alupo122]

Hello all looking for some help with a new to me MEP 802a. Put some fresh batteries in it and she started right up and all options functioned properly.
I had to replace a few parts due to some rodent urine corroding terminals and now K1 will not close as well as i believe the circuit interrupter and battle short light have burned out as well. i have documented pictures an will post a TLDR with bullet points after this paragraph.
TB3 was rotted due to rodents and was replaced with a new block. The glow plug relay was also in bad shape so i replaced that one as well with a generic 24v solenoid. the starter circuit solenoid located next to K1 was replaced due to a broken stud for X2. All wires were labled and pictures taken before disassembly. I have recently tested K1 per the TM by jumping A1 from starter circuit solenoid to X on the K1 interrupter. When the test was performed the switch for the interrupter worked perfectly fine. One more thing to note is the fuel gauge will now peg to full insted of reading the 1/2 ish tank level it has been. some times it will start to read properly. There is no visible broken or chewed wire that i have been able to locate thus far.

TLDR:
-Genset ran, made power, power to lugs, before repairs.
-replace TB3 from rotted terminals, labled and double checked the numbers on wires.
-replace glow plug relay due to corrosion
-replaced starter circuit solenoid (white in picture is old black in picture is NOS from green mountain generator)
-Engine starts, runs makes power to inlet side of k1, when trying to close (holding button or turning on Battle Short) both indicator lights went from bright green to orange to red to no illumination)
-K1 will not close (tested per TM and will work when jumped per TM with "key" in off position)
-power does show on ac voltage guages as well as reads with multimeter on A1 B1 C1 side

Thank you in advance im sure someone is going to look at this and know immediately what the heck happend here.

 

[Ray70]

Looks like you've got some pretty rusty terminal block screws in your first picture there.
Might want to also check the operation of the circuit interrupter switch and make sure the diode on the back of the switch is in place, oriented correctly and is good.

 

[alupo122]

Looks like you've got some pretty rusty terminal block screws in your first picture there.
Might want to also check the operation of the circuit interrupter switch and make sure the diode on the back of the switch is in place, oriented correctly and is good.

I never touched the switch on the co trol panel I can provide a picture of that later on as well. It worked before I replaced the rusty crusty white topped solenoid in picture 1.

 

[Mullaney]

Hello all looking for some help with a new to me MEP 802a. Put some fresh batteries in it and she started right up and all options functioned properly.
I had to replace a few parts due to some rodent urine corroding terminals and now K1 will not close as well as i believe the circuit interrupter and battle short light have burned out as well. i have documented pictures an will post a TLDR with bullet points after this paragraph.
TB3 was rotted due to rodents and was replaced with a new block. The glow plug relay was also in bad shape so i replaced that one as well with a generic 24v solenoid. the starter circuit solenoid located next to K1 was replaced due to a broken stud for X2. All wires were labled and pictures taken before disassembly. I have recently tested K1 per the TM by jumping A1 from starter circuit solenoid to X on the K1 interrupter. When the test was performed the switch for the interrupter worked perfectly fine. One more thing to note is the fuel gauge will now peg to full insted of reading the 1/2 ish tank level it has been. some times it will start to read properly. There is no visible broken or chewed wire that i have been able to locate thus far.

TLDR:
-Genset ran, made power, power to lugs, before repairs.
-replace TB3 from rotted terminals, labled and double checked the numbers on wires.
-replace glow plug relay due to corrosion
-replaced starter circuit solenoid (white in picture is old black in picture is NOS from green mountain generator)
-Engine starts, runs makes power to inlet side of k1, when trying to close (holding button or turning on Battle Short) both indicator lights went from bright green to orange to red to no illumination)
-K1 will not close (tested per TM and will work when jumped per TM with "key" in off position)
-power does show on ac voltage guages as well as reads with multimeter on A1 B1 C1 side

Thank you in advance im sure someone is going to look at this and know immediately what the heck happend here.


View attachment 948542View attachment 948543View attachment 948544View attachment 948545

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Yes sir, and the numbers written on the terminal block (second pic from the bottom) might be worth investigation. The numbers are hand written on the connectors. Wonder who did that? Even more of a possibility is the issue that they might not be connected to the correct block... Those connectors are NOT factory either. Again, wonder what happened there? Are they properly crimped? Squeezed on or "Staked" ?

 

[alupo122]

The connectors were on there. I put the color zip ties on before I removed the wires that were in tact. The ones that were rotted off I looked at the print line and found the "t" number printed on the black wires.

Thank you guys I hope i don't sound like a wise guy just trying to provide more information as the thread progresses.

 

[2Pbfeet]

In addition to @Mullaney's comment above, and this is may sound horribly tedious, but I think all of the wires and wiring ought to be checked. The fully pegged fuel gauge is suggestive to me of a bit erroneous wiring, including checking on the solenoid wiring and function.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[alupo122]

Agreed. The big red flag to me was as stated above the green led indicator lights turned color and burned out usually signifying an over voltage to an led.

 

[Guyfang]

The connectors were on there. I put the color zip ties on before I removed the wires that were in tact. The ones that were rotted off I looked at the print line and found the "t" number printed on the black wires.

NEVER, EVER, Trust someone else's work in the wire department. If someone else made a mistake, you just remade it, by trusting the way the wires were hooked back up. I NEVER mark wires. I unhook something and then get the schematic and rehook it up.