803A engine help

[Ray70]

Any new pictures you can share?

 

[spark500001]

Don't worry about the head gasket thickness, my experience has been that using the "standard" thickness gasket that comes in the gasket kits works just fine.
I'm not even sure if you can still buy the other thicknesses or not.
You should just remove the radiator and shroud assembly. Its easy and I think only 6 or 8 bolts to remove it.

So there is no damage to the valves or pistons, but I assume there are round marks in the carbon buildup on the pistons where the valves touched?
Or do you mean the valves did not hit the pistons at all??

we didn't see any hard contact it seems as the pushrods and rocker arms took all the force . we pulled the radiator and shroud but it looks as the radiator support has to be removed . the large sheet metal frame that holds the radiator is what we are referring to.
thanks again

 

[Ray70]

Correct, I meant the entire metal end of the generator enclosure, radiator and all comes out with about 6 bolts. It looks like my description above was not accurate.
I'm not quite understanding how things got so damaged if the valves didn't hit the pistons.
Do you suspect the valves were stuck in the valve guides maybe?
I can't imagine how else you could bend pushrods and break rocker arms unless the valves were somehow frozen solid.

 

[spark500001]

You have a Lister LPW4 in an MEP 803A that was made for Onan & they name it the DN4. Don't use the China copy parts, it is not worth it.

Ray, where is the best place to buy a engine gasket set that isn't from China?
where can we find a gasket set ?

 

[Ray70]

If you have to have OEM gaskets you can go to Online power products and get the gasket kit # 657-34280 for $326 and the head gasket is separate, PN. 754-40891 for $85.
To be honest, I've probably used a dozen or more China kits for <$100 and the only gasket in the kits that is a little sub-par is the front crank seal.
The OD seems a little small and presses into the front cover a bit too easy for my liking so I use a thin coating of gasket maker on the OD to help make sure it doesn't move.
I really don't think OEM gaskets are worth the extra 500% $ markup.
You could also mix and match OEM and China if you want, get the OEM head gasket and an OEM crank seal and use the China kit for the rest??

 

[Ray70]

Here's a better deal on Ebay.UK but I have no idea about any import duties or any additional expenses these days!

657-34281 Lister Petter LPW/LPWS4 Complete Gasket Set + 754-40891 Head Gasket | eBay UK

AB37-38 IV7 KA27-28 PA80-88.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[2Pbfeet]

Here's a better deal on Ebay.UK but I have no idea about any import duties or any additional expenses these days!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256411269420

Perhaps more to the point, there are no packages being shipped from the UK at the moment due to that uncertainty.

All the best, 2PbFeet

 

[spark500001]

Don't worry about the head gasket thickness, my experience has been that using the "standard" thickness gasket that comes in the gasket kits works just fine.
I'm not even sure if you can still buy the other thicknesses or not.
You should just remove the radiator and shroud assembly. Its easy and I think only 6 or 8 bolts to remove it.

So there is no damage to the valves or pistons, but I assume there are round marks in the carbon buildup on the pistons where the valves touched?
Or do you mean the valves did not hit the pistons at all??

we have the camshaft ready to remove, all lifters and fuel pump tappets have been taken out and the two bolts for the camshaft retaining plate have been removed as well . the camshaft doesn't want to budge are we missing anything ? we went over the manual and it appears we covered everything.

 

[spark500001]

we have the camshaft ready to remove, all lifters and fuel pump tappets have been taken out and the two bolts for the camshaft retaining plate have been removed as well . the camshaft doesn't want to budge are we missing anything ? we went over the manual and it appears we covered everything.

we tried again today and the camshaft still wont budge. its almost like there is a retainer or bolt is still holding it steady. I was thinking between the crankshaft and the oil pump drive gear is keeping it from walking out. all the steps were performed from the TM . any thoughts?

 

[Ray70]

I think you got everything unbolted by the sound, but the crankshaft and oil pimp need to rotate as you pull the cam forward.
They won't turn on their own due to the angle of the gear teeth, so try rotating the crank by hand while pulling / prying forward on the cam and turning the cam in the opposite direction. You would think just rotating and pulling forward on the cam would do it, but I seem to recall it not being quite that easy.

 

[Ray70]

2 other things! On the Cam retaining plate there are 3 bolts, you mentioned you removed 2, is the plate still tight or free to spin around? If tight you probably missed he 3rd bolt.
On the metering pump tappets did you remove the alignment bolts and pull out both the thin Cup as well as the actual tappet, or just the Cup?
My money says you missed the 3rd bolt in the cam retaining plate.

 

[spark500001]

2 other things! On the Cam retaining plate there are 3 bolts, you mentioned you removed 2, is the plate still tight or free to spin around? If tight you probably missed he 3rd bolt.
On the metering pump tappets did you remove the alignment bolts and pull out both the thin Cup as well as the actual tappet, or just the Cup?
My money says you missed the 3rd bolt in the cam retaining plate.

Ray , no 3rd bolt and we removed all the tappet related components. We did not remove the tappet studs as they are about the camshaft. We are going try loosing the oil pump to see if that helps . Again thanks for help

 

[Ray70]

You're correct, I looked too quick at the engine TM this morning and saw " remove the bolts securing the thrust plate and (3) , saw the retainer looks like a triangle and misinterpreted the "3" as 3 bolts not "item 3" in the diagram..... referring to the camshaft itself! Totally missed the "2" bolts and washer reference.
It sounds like you have everything apart correctly, maybe just try a little force and or persuasion and a few strong 4 letter words here and there, it should come out, unless something internally has gone horribly wrong!