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Need some info

daniauction

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Hi
I have a Stewart and Stevenson M1085 M1 and have some questions.
1 What is the green button for? ( first pictures red arrow)
2 What is the air filter gauge for? ( also first picture yellow arrow)
3 I raise the cabin with Pump button .( Second picture Yellow oval at the left ) My question is What is the right button (CAB) for ? ( Second picture red arrow) and also the suspension button should really raise and lower the truck?
4 Is there any kit to replace the big Nose air intake for something low profile?
5 Any roof AC system recommendation ?
Thank you all for any help .
 

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Ronmar

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Exhaust brake to help slowdown when rolling, warmup to add exhaust load to the engine when it is cold out… Air filter gauge is a vacuum gauge that gauges the resistance thru the air filter. Tells you when the filter is clogged… When it gets to a point it will latch there to show the peak vacuum. The red button releases it back to zero. the cab button sends air to the cab suspension. Push in and turn to lock the suspension air supply on.

if you look up in the manuals section you may find an operators manual for your truck…
 

daniauction

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10
6
3
Location
Florida
Exhaust brake to help slowdown when rolling, warmup to add exhaust load to the engine when it is cold out… Air filter gauge is a vacuum gauge that gauges the resistance thru the air filter. Tells you when the filter is clogged… When it gets to a point it will latch there to show the peak vacuum. The red button releases it back to zero. the cab button sends air to the cab suspension. Push in and turn to lock the suspension air supply on.

if you look up in the manuals section you may find an operators manual for your truck…
THANK YOU
 

hike

—realizing each day
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Texas Hill Country
We have a rooftop AC unit we like and use regularly: Nomadic X3 24v. It has been a journey and you can read about it here on Steelsoldiers, including an updated schematic of our current electrical system.

Where we are today:
1— replaced the undersized 12v/24v 100a alternator with a 24v 200a unit. We used a J-180 type, though there are pad mounts others have found we would likely use in the future;
2— replaced the 12v electrical supply with 2 - Victron Orion 24v/12v 70a DC to DC converters: one for truck systems, one for added accessories;
3— we are back to four batteries together, 2 banks in parallel, 2 - 12v 100ah in series (24v 200ah) feeding two separate distribution systems each headed by the Victron Orion 24v/12v 70a DC DC converters. This system works very well. In our current configuration the rooftop AC provides a sustained outlet temperature of 61F in Max mode using 53a. In Eco mode we have observed a sustained outlet temperature of 48F pulling 34a. Note: Eco mode moves less CFM, lowering the BTU's delivered. We have seen as high as 28F sustained differential, between inlet and outlet temperatures. These observed outlet temperatures are consistent with Nomadic's specification sheet for this unit. We have yet to use the unit as currently configured over 94F outside temperature;
4— With the rooftop unit the limiting factor is the volume (cfm) of air moved. If we are running errands leaving the AC running during stops is required to keep the cab comfortable as it takes some time to cool a hot cab. Once cooled down, it maintains temperature well. We have used the factory dash fan to move more air about the cab and this creates more 'cooling breeze' effect, though the noise is quite loud and certainly does not increase true cooling to the cab. Better insulation on the fan box and venting may make it quieter.


The rooftop unit is quiet, efficient and for our use suitable. The 24v 200a alternator easily maintains the four battery system and both electrical systems. Our maximum observed draw from the alternator has been 68a and lowest voltage 25.5v while charging. We did reprogram the low voltage cutoff on the AC unit raising it to 24v to save enough for truck systems at all times, if we leave the AC on while the engine is off. We have run the AC without the engine on and the low voltage cutoff does work allowing the truck to start without recharging the system. We will have a way to charge the truck AGM's off the habitat's lithium system in the future.


If you are looking to create an cab ICEBOX the factory (A1R and later) RedDot Gen2 units put out about 2.5 times as many BTU's as the rooftop Nomadic X3 24v. The Nomadic units are designed for small habitats (sprinter van size) with a lithium 400ah battery pack to run overnight maintaining 78F. Cooling a fish bowl like truck cab to 72F is not what these units were made to do. The newer Nomadic rooftop versions looks more promising, though I doubt any rooftop unit will cool as well as a factory engine driven unit. I hear Ronmar is designing a custom AC unit for his A0 truck and I think that may be very interesting. I also think a separate electrical compressor, condensor coupled to an evaporator in the factory box would deliver more cooling than a rooftop unit.


Would I do a rooftop again. Likely, though I can see advantages to the Red Dot Gen 2 system if you can find one or cobbling together a custom engine or electrical unit. I am concerned either of these dash units would be loud like the A0 and A1 heater boxes. We like the quiet of the rooftop unit and they are half the cost of the Red Dot's we have seen—
 

daniauction

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10
6
3
Location
Florida
We have a rooftop AC unit we like and use regularly: Nomadic X3 24v. It has been a journey and you can read about it here on Steelsoldiers, including an updated schematic of our current electrical system.

Where we are today:
1— replaced the undersized 12v/24v 100a alternator with a 24v 200a unit. We used a J-180 type, though there are pad mounts others have found we would likely use in the future;
2— replaced the 12v electrical supply with 2 - Victron Orion 24v/12v 70a DC to DC converters: one for truck systems, one for added accessories;
3— we are back to four batteries together, 2 banks in parallel, 2 - 12v 100ah in series (24v 200ah) feeding two separate distribution systems each headed by the Victron Orion 24v/12v 70a DC DC converters. This system works very well. In our current configuration the rooftop AC provides a sustained outlet temperature of 61F in Max mode using 53a. In Eco mode we have observed a sustained outlet temperature of 48F pulling 34a. Note: Eco mode moves less CFM, lowering the BTU's delivered. We have seen as high as 28F sustained differential, between inlet and outlet temperatures. These observed outlet temperatures are consistent with Nomadic's specification sheet for this unit. We have yet to use the unit as currently configured over 94F outside temperature;
4— With the rooftop unit the limiting factor is the volume (cfm) of air moved. If we are running errands leaving the AC running during stops is required to keep the cab comfortable as it takes some time to cool a hot cab. Once cooled down, it maintains temperature well. We have used the factory dash fan to move more air about the cab and this creates more 'cooling breeze' effect, though the noise is quite loud and certainly does not increase true cooling to the cab. Better insulation on the fan box and venting may make it quieter.


The rooftop unit is quiet, efficient and for our use suitable. The 24v 200a alternator easily maintains the four battery system and both electrical systems. Our maximum observed draw from the alternator has been 68a and lowest voltage 25.5v while charging. We did reprogram the low voltage cutoff on the AC unit raising it to 24v to save enough for truck systems at all times, if we leave the AC on while the engine is off. We have run the AC without the engine on and the low voltage cutoff does work allowing the truck to start without recharging the system. We will have a way to charge the truck AGM's off the habitat's lithium system in the future.


If you are looking to create an cab ICEBOX the factory (A1R and later) RedDot Gen2 units put out about 2.5 times as many BTU's as the rooftop Nomadic X3 24v. The Nomadic units are designed for small habitats (sprinter van size) with a lithium 400ah battery pack to run overnight maintaining 78F. Cooling a fish bowl like truck cab to 72F is not what these units were made to do. The newer Nomadic rooftop versions looks more promising, though I doubt any rooftop unit will cool as well as a factory engine driven unit. I hear Ronmar is designing a custom AC unit for his A0 truck and I think that may be very interesting. I also think a separate electrical compressor, condensor coupled to an evaporator in the factory box would deliver more cooling than a rooftop unit.


Would I do a rooftop again. Likely, though I can see advantages to the Red Dot Gen 2 system if you can find one or cobbling together a custom engine or electrical unit. I am concerned either of these dash units would be loud like the A0 and A1 heater boxes. We like the quiet of the rooftop unit and they are half the cost of the Red Dot's we have seen—
Thank you @hike
I don't see the schematic of your electrical system can you please send me that info .
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
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Location
Portland, OR
I will add that if you are frequently in a climate like I am here in OR, where you get sometimes weeks of non-stop rain and temps in the 40's and 50's, the rooftop and other such electrical units will not function significantly to dry the air like the factory AC would do for effective defrost. Many people ignore the concept of AC in the winter but ALL OEM systems operate this way including the Gen-2 RedDot units - first drying the air with AC to drop it's dewpoint then heating the dry air with the heater core for MUCH more effective defrost performance. It will actually clear the windows - even the rear side windows - which the factory heater alone will not do with a cab full of wet people and dogs.

And yes - I'm also considering developing an add-on system that could be "powered" by the factory heater fan to alleviate the need for the gen-2 cab unit. The rest of the system isn't terribly hard to figure out.

Factory AC was only on A1R LVAD trucks, or the A1P2 and up all get it because transparent armor doesn't roll down.
 

daniauction

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10
6
3
Location
Florida
Exhaust brake to help slowdown when rolling, warmup to add exhaust load to the engine when it is cold out… Air filter gauge is a vacuum gauge that gauges the resistance thru the air filter. Tells you when the filter is clogged… When it gets to a point it will latch there to show the peak vacuum. The red button releases it back to zero. the cab button sends air to the cab suspension. Push in and turn to lock the suspension air supply on.

if you look up in the manuals section you may find an operators manual for your truck…
@Ronmar I follow your youtube channel, How do you install the aux driving lights off a Toyota Tacoma?
Thank you
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
4,424
8,326
113
Location
Port angeles wa
@Ronmar I follow your youtube channel, How do you install the aux driving lights off a Toyota Tacoma?
Thank you
The beauty of this military truck is it has a couple of light modes most of us will never use, like blackout drive and Blackout marker/signal lights. So there are already wires from lightswitch in the dash to the bumpers. In the case of the Toyota driving lights, I found some aftermarket ones with orange/white halo rings similar to the headlights I found. I used the blackout drive circuit, which fed that single I.R. driving light left of center in the front bumper. I extended it left and right thru the wiring loom to feed the locations where the park/signal/blackout light units were located. Built simple C channel brackets to affix the toy lights to the flat foundations where the original marker/signal light modules were mounted... Also a great opportunity to clean up the front light grounds as they are grounded thru the marker light mount bolts...

Wired the orange halo to the signal circuit and the white halo to Daytime Running Light circuit along with the headlight DRL halos. I also tied the door and front cab marker lights into the signal circuit.

I used the front Blackout marker light wiring circuit to power the white DRL halos...
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
4,424
8,326
113
Location
Port angeles wa
I will add that if you are frequently in a climate like I am here in OR, where you get sometimes weeks of non-stop rain and temps in the 40's and 50's, the rooftop and other such electrical units will not function significantly to dry the air like the factory AC would do for effective defrost. Many people ignore the concept of AC in the winter but ALL OEM systems operate this way including the Gen-2 RedDot units - first drying the air with AC to drop it's dewpoint then heating the dry air with the heater core for MUCH more effective defrost performance. It will actually clear the windows - even the rear side windows - which the factory heater alone will not do with a cab full of wet people and dogs.

And yes - I'm also considering developing an add-on system that could be "powered" by the factory heater fan to alleviate the need for the gen-2 cab unit. The rest of the system isn't terribly hard to figure out.

Factory AC was only on A1R LVAD trucks, or the A1P2 and up all get it because transparent armor doesn't roll down.
Well anything that dries the air is a plus. Was amazed the first time I encountered this, engaging the defrost in a 98 Mitsu eclipse GSX(Wife's midlife crazy car). Especially because the vehicle had a bad A/C clutch. I had to disable that interconnect for a while until I fixed the clutch, and that car took forever to defrost. once I got the clutch repaired(what a mother of a job:() it was utterly astounding how fast the cabin would dry out and defrost with the added dry air. Had never dawned on me to even try this before then, Now I do it in all my other vehicles that do not add A/C to the defrost sequence. It is also good for the A/C to cycle it throughout the off season...

i suspect the rooftop would make a difference, you just want to have the heater air control on recirculate. i estimate the cab volume ~200 cubic ft? so it should cycle the cab air volume in less than a minute. some installed ducting to distribute or draw air from the farthest point or force it toward the windshield would assist with this. The slow part is probably getting heat from the diesel:)
 

daniauction

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10
6
3
Location
Florida
The beauty of this military truck is it has a couple of light modes most of us will never use, like blackout drive and Blackout marker/signal lights. So there are already wires from lightswitch in the dash to the bumpers. In the case of the Toyota driving lights, I found some aftermarket ones with orange/white halo rings similar to the headlights I found. I used the blackout drive circuit, which fed that single I.R. driving light left of center in the front bumper. I extended it left and right thru the wiring loom to feed the locations where the park/signal/blackout light units were located. Built simple C channel brackets to affix the toy lights to the flat foundations where the original marker/signal light modules were mounted... Also a great opportunity to clean up the front light grounds as they are grounded thru the marker light mount bolts...

Wired the orange halo to the signal circuit and the white halo to Daytime Running Light circuit along with the headlight DRL halos. I also tied the door and front cab marker lights into the signal circuit.

I used the front Blackout marker light wiring circuit to power the white DRL halos...
Thank you @Ronmar appreciate all info
 

daniauction

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10
6
3
Location
Florida
Well anything that dries the air is a plus. Was amazed the first time I encountered this, engaging the defrost in a 98 Mitsu eclipse GSX(Wife's midlife crazy car). Especially because the vehicle had a bad A/C clutch. I had to disable that interconnect for a while until I fixed the clutch, and that car took forever to defrost. once I got the clutch repaired(what a mother of a job:() it was utterly astounding how fast the cabin would dry out and defrost with the added dry air. Had never dawned on me to even try this before then, Now I do it in all my other vehicles that do not add A/C to the defrost sequence. It is also good for the A/C to cycle it throughout the off season...

i suspect the rooftop would make a difference, you just want to have the heater air control on recirculate. i estimate the cab volume ~200 cubic ft? so it should cycle the cab air volume in less than a minute. some installed ducting to distribute or draw air from the farthest point or force it toward the windshield would assist with this. The slow part is probably getting heat from the diesel:)
Where did you get all AC parts? @Ronmar
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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113
Location
Portland, OR
Where did you get all AC parts? @Ronmar
AFAIK he's still designing something. @ckouba and myself have discussed doing something similar with his truck and I have a couple of heater units to mock it up with. This will be an exercise in AC engineering, sheet metal construction, and finding many parts from OEM or aftermarket applications. Likely parts will have to come from multiple suppliers and hoses will have to be custom made as you go along with wiring. No one has a kit you can buy (yet) so either roll your own or wait till one of us sells a kit for it. I've got lots of ideas for upgrade kits - cruise control, power windows, etc - the time to implement full kits that can be installed while high/drunk/brain dead and then supporting them is all surplus to running my shop managing properties so I don't have as much time as I would like - and I'm not sure I want the support role where I am partially responsible for the horrible state of repair of someones Govplanet mistake...... it's a conundrum.
 

hike

—realizing each day
Steel Soldiers Supporter
632
930
93
Location
Texas Hill Country
i suspect the rooftop would make a difference, you just want to have the heater air control on recirculate. i estimate the cab volume ~200 cubic ft? so it should cycle the cab air volume in less than a minute. some installed ducting to distribute or draw air from the farthest point or force it toward the windshield would assist with this. The slow part is probably getting heat from the diesel:)
Our rooftop unit works well at removing moisture on 40-50F rainy days. It is not a heat pump, so it doesn't blow hot. We set the temp to 78F Max mode with the fan on high. Much better than a rag and the factory defroster that just allows the fog to reappear over and over

We are not in the northwest, and I lived in Portland 30+ years ago. Not sure how it will do in the northwest drizzly—
 
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