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Replacement Parts for MEP-002a

kevindugan

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I just picked up a MEP-002a from government surplus and need to find a place to buy used parts. I am looking for where others might turn to as they start to rebuild or repair one. This is not a want or classified ad (would be against the rules) for a specific part, this is to find where others find parts for these units.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

By the way. I put in some new deisel, new batteries, oil and she fired up on the first try. Now to get a noise suppresion kit.
 

Speddmon

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good luck finding an ASK for it. Those that have them aren't letting go of them!!
 

Speddmon

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Jonathan,

Not that I'm aware of about the websites...but if you call Delks and ask for generator parts, they are about the best people out there. They WILL try to help you diagnose a problem before you spend the money on a part. Just because of that I'll go back to them to buy parts even if the price might be lower somewhere else. They definitely seem to be very customer care oriented and helpful!!!!


Monty,

Most of the fuel lines you referred to are easy to get ahold of. Any place that makes custom hydraulic hoses can make them up for you in a matter of minutes. The only difference will be the actual hose itself. The stock ones are a fiberglass braided hose, where you'll more than likely just get regular hydraulic hose from a shop. The fittings are nothing more than a 5/16" JIC fitting.

As far as "other" parts go...what are you looking for? Most, if not all of the electrical parts can be replaced with a commercially available commercial/industrial electrical part. The bridge board and voltage regulator can be repaired using the schematics in the TM. Some of the DC charging stuff can be bought new, but for a price. Engine parts are the real killers to find...mostly you're looking at surplus dealers like Delks for stuff like that.
 

DieselBob

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Delk's doesn't have a very friendly site, I can't browse through their stuff.
Their site isn't browsing friendly for sure but like Speddmon said they are a great bunch of folks to deal with. The couple times I have called they have been very helpful and try to make sure you don't buy something you don't need.
 

Speddmon

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With the weather willing, I'll try and start my 003A tomorrow. A quick trip to NAPA for the oil/fuel filters and I should be good to go.
A noble idea. I think I'll drag mine out of the garage and do the same; I've not run it since about Christmas - and it's always good to get it some exercise.

I run mine at least once a month for an hour or two. Lately it seems that I've been running them due to the power outages more than just for exercise. I really wish I could keep them in the garage, but I don't have room for them inside yet. Sooner or later though I will build my shop and then they'll both be permanently mounted indoors.
 

DieselBob

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I need to finish reassembling my AC box and see if I have good AC output. Haven't had it running sense before Christmas. Need to dig it out of the snow drift first.
 

jbk

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livingston la.
i have a 002 that works fine but the plastic case for the cvt ct transformer in the ac output box is cracked and pieces missing would anyone have one to sell or trade? what does this thing do? thanks
 

Speddmon

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jbk,

If all of the instrumentation and metering of your generator works, I would not bother to replace the CV/CVT. The plastic that is broken is just the mounting cases. The actual plastic that protects the coils of the CT/CVT are inside of that case (kind of like a double layer of plastic). That first sentence kind of answers your question. The CT/CVT is the controller for most of your voltage regulation and instrumentation. The low voltage signal to your voltage regulator comes from the CT/CVT, and the % load meter and voltage meter get their signals from the CT/CVT.

Reasons, first off, they are a royal pain in the a$$ to get to...ask DieselBob. :shock:

Secondly, they are very expensive!! Someone posted a thread a few months ago about the same thing, and said they found one that someone (dealer I think) was willing to sell for around $400. Keep in mind that the MEP-002 and MEP-003 have different CT/CVT assemblies.
 

jbk

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glad to here it has double plastic as the outside case is busted to pieces. someone else did a glue job on it but didnt hold up. i was hoping to find a complete ac box for it as this would be much easier to replace. the only thing that doesnt work is the hz. gauge it pegs out past 65 and stays their. i tried another gauge same thing. someone has replaced the transducer before dont know if its still the problem. the gen. had a voltage instalbility problem adjusting the pot on the vr board had no effect. i removed the board and saw what looked like cold soldered joints. after respoldering it has been fine.
 

Speddmon

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You can check your frequency meter by following the TM 5-6115-584-34, page 2-11 (the troubleshooting section). It tells you first off to check the transformers T1 and T2. The procedure to check these transformers can be found in the TM 5-6115-584-12, chapter 4 paragraph 4-38 section 14 and 15. The transformers are located in the main control cubicle. They could be your trouble...one of them might be bad. After you check them, then it tells you to check the meter and transducer.

Most people never even look at the TM's and just replace parts. You'll eventually find the problem that way (throw enough money at it and the problem will eventually go away), but it sure get's expensive, and you don't really learn anything in the process. I know nobody likes to read the TM's but they really do tell you how to go about fixing your troubles.

Give those transformers a try and see what happens, if you're still having troubles come back and tell us what's going on and we'll get you hooked up.
 

steelandcanvas

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Well, I didn't get Her started, NAPA only had one fuel filter. I'll take Mama to breakfast tomorrow in Denver and get the other filter at the Denver NAPA. I did however get my fuel tank cleaned out, removed all my filter canisters and dipped them, bead blasted them, primed, painted and are ready to go. I plan on painting the 003 OD Green, so everything I take off, gets painted. Put a set of batteries in and She turned over, good, now I know She's not seized up like others I've read about. We'll see what tomorrow brings.[thumbzup]
 

Speddmon

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so, this must be how you keep a generator junkie in suspense :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

We need pics and videos man...LOL

Jonathan, I hope she fires right off for you and makes good power. The fact that she turns over is a BIG step forward!
 

Carl_in_NH

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Wilton NH
Mine started :) Had to carry it over to the deuce with the tractor to borrow some battery power (I've removed the batteries from the genset and have them in the basement running the GRC-106A - but that's another story). Crank for about 10 seconds until there's good oil pressure, preheat for 45 seconds, and then she'll start with another 5 or so seconds of cranking at ~+25F.

Good luck with your set, Johnathan. If she won't fire right up - but you get some white smoke, be certain to check your glow plugs. These gensets won't fire up without the plugs in the cold.
 
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Speddmon

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Carl,

I'm guessing that from the ease you have starting your set and getting oil pressure when it's cold...you have the luxury of keeping yours indoors??? Even in an unheated garage maybe????

When it's 20 to 25 here; mine (that sit outside) take about 3 or 4, 10 seconds cranks to get the oil pressure to even register. Probably because it is in the low teens overnight and the oil pretty much turns to sludge!!! Once they do finally get the oil pressure up to the switch set point they run great....but it takes a LOT to get them there. I preheat for a full minute, and the engine wants to take off right away, but the oil is so thick, that it still takes 2 or 3 more times to get the pressure up.

I can't wait till I can keep them inside!!!!
 
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