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Front wheel hop while braking?

raiburn

New member
235
1
0
Location
Fort Wayne, Indiana
'86 '28
Yes, Front, Yes, While Braking!
It seems the lighter I brake, the worse it is.
The harder I brake the less I feel it.
Also, It has death wobble on very rare occasion. Like if I hit some bad R.R. tracks hard. Could these be related?

Any thoughts?

Leaf spring bushings?
Shocks?
Brakes?

Thanks, Joe.
 

1956_4x4

New member
368
0
0
Location
Crestview, Florida
I'm getting ready to jump on this problem on my 1031 this weekend. Mine will do it so bad that I've been waiting for the tire to bounce above the fender. It only happens when braking, but it doesn't always happen when braking. I'll let you know what I find.

Smitty
 

1956_4x4

New member
368
0
0
Location
Crestview, Florida
you sure its not a warped rotor?
I'm pretty sure a rotor on mine is warped. I have new calipers, rotors, pads, lines, bearings, races and seals on the way. I figure the parts have been on there for quite a while and could use replacement. I use this truck for work, so I can't have it down for long... The thing that gets me is that it doesn't always do it.

Smitty
 

scottodog

New member
38
0
0
Location
nj
Get a new steering stabilizer. Had it on 3 of my 4 trucks I got . I got a monroe from autozone for 31.00 with a replacement warranty if it goes bad.
 

CA_LEO

Member
64
5
8
Location
Grass Valley, CA
We had the same problem on one of our vehicles at work, the maintenance guys would not believe it was a wrapped rotor until they changed everything else and it did not fix the problems. I would be willing to bet that is what your problem is.
 

1956_4x4

New member
368
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0
Location
Crestview, Florida
Well, this project may be placed on hold until next weekend. I just picked up my parts and I'm short one brake line. Hopefully it will come in this afternoon...

Smitty
 

SmokeyDod

New member
206
2
0
Location
Easley, SC
The M1028 has the Dana 60 front. I would think your Adv Auto has something mixed up if they sell the the rotors, even without brgs for $56.00 ea. Might want to double-check that.
 

scottodog

New member
38
0
0
Location
nj
Dana 60's get the wobble from worn king pins and rod ends the steering stabilizers are needed to stop these. The steering stabilizer is probably original and worn. I would buy one of these before dumping money into other things. They are 31.00 and you need one if you have the wobbles.
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,802
51
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
and the king pin springs and nylon washers are 25 bucks from ORD and take about an hour to install. and they help get rid of DW. I put a new steering stabilizer and springs when i first got my truck and it helped a bunch.
 

LanceRobson

Well-known member
1,638
206
63
Location
Pinnacle, Stokes County, NC
Dana 60's get the wobble from worn king pins and rod ends the steering stabilizers are needed to stop these. The steering stabilizer is probably original and worn. I would buy one of these before dumping money into other things. They are 31.00 and you need one if you have the wobbles.
A steering stabilizer will only mask a problem that needs attention. All it is is a small bore shock absorber. It can't remove play. If the stabilizer "fixes" the problem- don't believe it. The instability problem is still there, waiting to jump on you, and Murphey is the holding it's leash.

The king pins generally don't wear although they might suffer from corrosion or abrasion if they aren't lubed. The bushings are sacrificial and they and the bushing springs are the wear items. Change the gaskets if present, or use silicone, and put in new grease fittings. I fact, consider changing all the grease fittings. Your counting on a 25 year old spring an ball to let grease in and keep crud out?

Worn shocks can allow uneven tire wear, wheel hop, brake grabbing on bumps and uneven terrain, yadda, yadda, yadda. If the shocks are OEM, replace them. If in doubt, replace them. The springs on these things are too stiff to rely on the bumper bounce trick.

Springs that are sagging can cause issues because they don't provide the intended resistance to vertical travel. If the spring bolts are not centered in the eyes the rubber bushings need to be replaced. Polyurethane one are best. Bushings that aren't centered change the front end geometry and it's never for the better. Sagging springs are effectively longer than OEM and the axle doesn't know where it should ride. The difference is made up in instability.

The allowable play in all the front end components is 1/16" If the rod ends, drag link etc have more, replace them.

Check for bearing and hub play by resting one hand on top of the tire and pushing the truck away with the other. Also, raise each front wheel, one at a time, and grasp the front and rear of the tire. Try to rock the tire and feel for play. The first will usually show bearing play, the second could be anything attached to the wheel (drag link, etc) so do this after you verify the 1/16" or less play or it won't narrow down the possible problem.

If your steering does not return to center after a turn without a conscious input there are other issues.

Improper wheel alignment (caster and camber etc) along with the tire pressure can all cause instability. These trucks had play in the steering when they were driven off the assembly line. They will always have more play than a modern vehicle. Try to find an old timer for the alignment. In any case, consider talking to the alignment guy and see if he can set you up for a very gentle bias to one side or the other, preferably to the left. That will have you in a very gentle turn to one side and the play won't be something you feel going down the road. Since most of us drive with the left hand braced on the door somewhere and the crown of the road needs to be climbed to the left, a left bias is very comfortable.

The front end of any vehicle is a pretty complex place where everything needs to be correct.

OLDCHEV4X4 is a hero with these front ends. He builds and races full size Chevys off road. If you get really stumped, shoot him a PM.

Lance
 

lavarok

Well-known member
1,119
33
48
Location
Fellsmere, FL
I've recently noticed the same issue with my '08. Seems to be the driver side front that hops. I'm going to tear down the front end this coming week to resolve. Anyone else have any updates on their progress resolving?
 

jimm1009

Well-known member
1,163
68
48
Location
Louisville, KY
If your rotors are warped but not too badly they may possibly be trued up.
Try taking them to your favorite drum and rotor turning facility and ask them to check the rotors. Autonzone and O'rielly's and Carquest are three for example.
They need the rotors still installed on the hubs and the bearings and inner hub seal need to be removed. Leave the inner races in or most shops can not properly center the hubs on their machines.
$56 each is not too bad if that has to be done but $12 for turning is better if you can do it safely with minimum meat left for the road. I purchased drums at O'riellys a while back with a life time warranty and also one hub there too.
jimm1009
 

beanman1

New member
324
1
0
Location
in the south
most of the time with a warped rotor you will fell the brake pedal pulsate along with wobble if the brake pedal doesnt pulsate i would check the king pin bushings
 

DerangedMadman

New member
75
0
0
Location
Columbus, OH
I had some of the same problems but hey went away when I replace the bushings in the front springs. The pin that ran through the shackle had pushed all the way through the bushings on one side. I don't know if this had the front axle sitting just a little bit out of alignment but it went completely away when i put the new ones on. (I did put brand new springs on as well as they were sagging)
 

jimm1009

Well-known member
1,163
68
48
Location
Louisville, KY
Goodpoint above. Forgot to mention that the pivot points on the front axle can go bad since they are sealed units from GM unlike the aftermarket ones that actually come with grease fittings.
jimm1009
 
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