Built an anti wrap setup on my bobbed Deuce

[samsimpson]

Mine came with them, they look like a cut down spring pack. They seem to be welded to the housing and to themselves (the individual leaves).

 

[KsM715]

samsimpson, Are all the leaf springs welded together or just the ones used to build the lift block?

 

[samsimpson]

samsimpson, Are all the leaf springs welded together or just the ones used to build the lift block?

LOL, just the ones on the lift block Be a stiff ridin SOB with all leaf packs welded together

 

[KsM715]

Thats what I was thinking. Just had to set my mind at ease

 

[mudguppy]

Not to hijack the thread, but what are you guys using for blocks??? tube, cast iron, aluminum, tapered or non tapered,, no one is telling their secrets.

mine are fabricated plate blocks from Red Barn Customs - they are bracketed to encapsulate the axle housing and are welded on.

i'm not sue if they are tapered. that's actually something that i need to look at in the near future; i've got a vibration at 2500+ driveshaft speed that i'm thinking may be pinion angle related...

 

[RANDYDIRT]

Here's my set up.

Dirt

 

[eldgenb]

Here's my set up.

Dirt

Why Triangulated? it seems like the one connected to the diff housing serves no real purpose. Just asking in case I am missing something? I built traction bars for all of my personal trucks and tow rigs and this is the first of its kind that I have seen like that.

 

[samsimpson]

Here's my set up.

Dirt

Nice brackets

 

[mudguppy]

Here's my set up.

Why Triangulated? ...

agreed. with the lateral triangulation, it is likely binding during articulation. did you experience much axle wrap w/ that much spring pack?

 

[RANDYDIRT]

agreed. with the lateral triangulation, it is likely binding during articulation. did you experience much axle wrap w/ that much spring pack?

Yes, the axle wrap was severe. It was especially bad while backing up a slight hill and the wheels started hopping. Just normal take offs produced 2-3 inches of upward rotation at the pinion. How do I know this? I drove it with the bed removed so I could watch the axle. It was enlightening to say the least.

Why triangled? Because the front mount is fully articulated. The third leg is to keep the system from kicking to the side while accelerating. And there is no binding during articulation because of the way the front mount is built.

Dirt

 

[mudguppy]

... And there is no binding during articulation because of the way the front mount is built.

cool. got a pic?

 

[samsimpson]

Ok I tested mine out. It worked beautifully while in 2wd in thick sand until....I climbed a small dune and bent the longside pipe. Schedule 40 that long will bend It isn't bent much, just a slight bend, but when it happened it started to wheel hop a little. Not nearly as bad as the wheel hop I had before adding this, and even driving in less thick sand.

Before, the wheel hop was so bad I would almost get stuck in slightly soft sand in 2wd. With this setup, even after bending and getting some wheel hop back, I didn't get close to getting stuck in real thick sand.

I am going to try one more thing to strengthen it before I scrap it and start over. I will post updates.

 

[mudguppy]

put the link into tension/compression versus the moment arm as it is now; keep what you have, but run a link from the lower bracket to the cross member bracket. this will change your rear to mimic a 3-link (essentially 4) setup. the effectiveness depends on the amount of seperation between the plane of the lower link attachment at the axle (lower bracket) and the upper pivot point of the spring (essentially where the block/spring meet). the more seperation between these two planes the more effective against axle wrap.

edit: you may want to run that lower link bracket off the bottom of the axle housing to increase the seperation. shouldn't be so low as to cause hang-up problems...

 

[K10A]

http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/traction bar installed1.jpg

 

[samsimpson]

put the link into tension/compression versus the moment arm as it is now; keep what you have, but run a link from the lower bracket to the cross member bracket. this will change your rear to mimic a 3-link (essentially 4) setup. the effectiveness depends on the amount of seperation between the plane of the lower link attachment at the axle (lower bracket) and the upper pivot point of the spring (essentially where the block/spring meet). the more seperation between these two planes the more effective against axle wrap.

edit: you may want to run that lower link bracket off the bottom of the axle housing to increase the seperation. shouldn't be so low as to cause hang-up problems...

Pretty much what I was planning on doing

Do you mean run the lower bracket under the axle housing? Right now it is at the bottom when mounted to the front of the housing.

If I end up rebuilding everything, I will try to get more distance between the two mounting points on the axle housing.

 

[rikinwyoming]

cool thread,, subscribed!!

 

[RANDYDIRT]

cool. got a pic?

I'll try to get a pic tomorrow, but it's so simple, and made out of TSC tractor parts. I may have $75 in the whole thing.

Dirt

 

[mudguppy]

... Do you mean run the lower bracket under the axle housing? Right now it is at the bottom when mounted to the front of the housing. ...

yes. you could try a single link from the existing lower bracket, but i think you would be much better off moving the axle bracket to below the housing some.

 

[samsimpson]

yes. you could try a single link from the existing lower bracket, but i think you would be much better off moving the axle bracket to below the housing some.

If the modification doesn't work I will be starting over from scratch and will use mounts like Randydirt has which I can make the lower mount just under the axle.

 

[RANDYDIRT]

Here's a pic of the front mount

Dirt