Recent content by 1993

Yeah mine seemed to start with the warm weather too. Well I just took it for a drive after greasing all the steering components and that seemed to have solved it!! knock on wood... I must have missed one of the grease zerks when I first got the truck. Anyways, thanks to all for your replies!

Driving down the paved road two days ago I noticed the steering was binding a bit. It's most noticeable when I am making small corrections to the long turns of the road at speeds greater than 40mph. What I encounter is that there are distinct moments of resistance to my turning the wheel. the...

I'm thinking of just using a loop of copper wire around three studs to keep the outer half centered. any thoughts? Also, in putting the spare back together(it's the newer 12 bolt with the "alignment hole"). I used a torque wrench I tightened the 12 bolts to 80lbft and then 120lbft as per the...

In your opinion are they only needed on the early 12 bolt? have you heard of them being used on 24 bolt rims?

here's a bunch of questions I encountered very quickly while changing the first tire. first of all, In preparing to install new tires, I found out that I have the older style 12 bolt rims. As I understand it they have a tendency to not align well and so three centering washers(per wheel) need...

put everything back together and the sound of play(something loose) is gone. I'll check again after a drive.

yeah I've pushed and pulled on the wheel with the truck jacked up(as I think I mentioned much earlier in this post, or another..). It made the ticking sound when pulling/pushing on top and bottom of tire. had my brother do it while I put my hand on different components to see if I could feel...

So I changed out the lower rear left ball joint(having thought that was the issue). and the symptom seemed to have gone away. I tested it by pushing the rear of the truck side to side. it no longer made the ticking(loose play) sound from the rear left. a few days ago I was walking past the...

you can see the printout in my previous post. all seems good enough to me. just brainstorming if I can improve since they will check alignment. they only do front and rear toe. but as I understand, toe changes when camber is changed so I'd like to make any changes to camber before. yup, my...

by adding a shim only to the rear bucket of the control arm will I decrease caster angle? my left side is close to zero but the right is over 1degree. I'm thinking about adjusting camber so I thought I might try to improve castor also. not sure if either makes sense since the thinnest shim will...

do you have any of those shims left? I'm lookin to just add a layer in the front. my rear camber is still super positive but the front is slightly(not enough to see) negative.

The play was in the joint. The tapered shaft spun during initial nut removal but not easily. Maybe it was originally not torqued enough? everything installed nice and tight. torqued to spec. used a little lock tight on the 3/8 bolts since I reused the original lock nuts.

Haha! ok

new ball joint arrived yesterday. removing the old one: the nut was spinning with the joint so I had to spray it with pb-blaster and used a prybar between the joint and hub to create more friction against the joint rod. with that the nut came off easily. And the joint came out as I backed off...

in searching for a good description I found this on the following website(not trying to plagiarize) : https://rallyways.com/10869/lightweight-wheels/ 1. Sprung Weight / Mass The sprung weight is the total weight of all parts on the car that is supported by the car’s suspension. Some examples...