camber adjustment shims and plates

[1993]

I finally got it back together today. Camber looks spot on to me without any shims. There was tons of toe out at first after bolting it all back together. I probably said every cuss word in my vocabulary a dozen times while trying to get the radius arms to move. Finally got them to turn with a 24 inch pipe wrench and a floor jack to get it about 1/6 turn at a time. After a rotation or two I could barely do it with all my weight on it. I did the alignment per the military spec with 1/2" toe out. I also checked against the frame rails to make sure they were even and it wouldn't crab walk down the road. Flash offroad has a PDF of one of the cartoon TMs that shows the alignment specs and procedures. It's on their page for H1 alignment.
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is this the illustration you are referring to?
http://flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/FrontEnd/MilBalance.pdf

 

[Carrera911]

is this the illustration you are referring to?
http://flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/FrontEnd/MilBalance.pdf
View attachment 728763

Yeah it looks like you had quite the headache trying go get yours to move. I didn’t think mine would be too bad since it’s never seen salt in it’s life. Had they put anti seize on them a decade or more ago it would probably be a non issue.

Yeah that’s the cartoon. Not sure why it’s a half inch out but I just did it the way it said. I was honestly so fed up with it I just got it within 1/16 inch and even enough to the frame and called it good.


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[1993]

Patients, SMALL hands, a good creeper, better friends and the wrench above. Shims, I got shims... Here's a picture of the ones I left out to get things lined up. Put back two - three thin ones as needed to meet MY camber / caster needs. Your results may very. Note to self: Thirty year old Hummwv banging around, things are going to get whacked. See post with the front right side, lower controls arm pulled right out of the cross member, Holly Smokes (Driver to Commander...just bumped the curb??)

Keep that in mind when making measurements. Index to tooling holes or frame points to be sure your not going in circles trying to fix a bigger problem.

I can't see a shop wanting to take on an alignment on the cheap, labor alone. Got to cost $. Add in the rust and learning curve $$$. Parts $$$$

DIY if you can and save $$$, for the love of the hobby.

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do you have any of those shims left? I'm lookin to just add a layer in the front.
my rear camber is still super positive but the front is slightly(not enough to see) negative.

 

[1993]

by adding a shim only to the rear bucket of the control arm will I decrease caster angle?
my left side is close to zero but the right is over 1degree.
I'm thinking about adjusting camber so I thought I might try to improve castor also. not sure if either makes sense since the thinnest shim will make a .3degree change(a bit much).
does having a bit of negative camber in front improve handling?
Also, does adding weight in the rear like for example a spare tire hanging off a rhino tire carrier increase front positive camber?

The only reason I am thinking about this is that the shop agreed to recheck alignment since they missed the bad ball joint.
otherwise I wouldn't mess with any of this since it's pretty close.

 

[Action]

adding shims to a rear bucket on a front control arm will lower the caster angle. You do not want a negative caster. Follow the recommendations in the book or for an H1.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Can't believe you need to add any. (had to say that) To get things squared up and tracking (mall cruiser with long tire wear) usually a fist full are cumming out, unless something is tweeked, bent, busted, worn or weak springs too. Where's the ones you pulled? You planning on full up armored load ?

I still can't see how any alignment shop would mess with a military Hmmwv on their rack. Maybe get a print out, but turning wrenches, got to cost big bucks. My rig with the 425 pound helmet top took three tries to get it right myself. That's after reading and learning (trial & some error with correction) all the variables, deviations of shims, location and applying my load requirements for most used loading needs. The TM book and charts figures on alot of bombs and bullets, so those figures may not work for trips around town or trail rides.

Funny note... before my alignment with nasty tire wear and squirrel-ie steering, if you let off the throttle it would quickly roll to a stop. Now, it rolls, steers and coasts like riding on a cloud. Faster off the line too!

No shake or rock, just roll.

CAM

 

[1993]

Can't believe you need to add any. (had to say that) To get things squared up and tracking (mall cruiser with long tire wear) usually a fist full are cumming out, unless something is tweeked, bent, busted, worn or weak springs too. Where's the ones you pulled? You planning on full up armored load ?

I still can't see how any alignment shop would mess with a military Hmmwv on their rack. Maybe get a print out, but turning wrenches, got to cost big bucks. My rig with the 425 pound helmet top took three tries to get it right myself. That's after reading and learning (trial & some error with correction) all the variables, deviations of shims, location and applying my load requirements for most used loading needs. The TM book and charts figures on alot of bombs and bullets, so those figures may not work for trips around town or trail rides.

Funny note... before my alignment with nasty tire wear and squirrel-ie steering, if you let off the throttle it would quickly roll to a stop. Now, it rolls, steers and coasts like riding on a cloud. Faster off the line too!

No shake or rock, just roll.

CAM

you can see the printout in my previous post.
all seems good enough to me. just brainstorming if I can improve since they will check alignment. they only do front and rear toe.
but as I understand, toe changes when camber is changed so I'd like to make any changes to camber before.

yup, my truck would slow down quick with foot off pedal before alignment was done.

 

[Action]

you can see the printout in my previous post.
all seems good enough to me. just brainstorming if I can improve since they will check alignment. they only do front and rear toe.
but as I understand, toe changes when camber is changed so I'd like to make any changes to camber before.

yup, my truck would slow down quick with foot off pedal before alignment was done.

I would try to get the caster to at least +1.00. 0 -4 is acceptable. The heavier the hmmwv, the higher you want. I can't find the table for the m998, but the basic newer model chart suggests +1.7.

I have read some article the compare the front wheel to a shopping cart wheel. If your caster is negative, the wheel is dragged. If the caster is positive, the wheel is pushed. That shopping cart wheel that shakes all the time is being pulled.

 

[McSpeed]

This is a great post - found in with the search feature. I need to get the positive camber out of the back of mine. Looks like the "crab" as discussed going down the road, and lord knows it is dangerous for handling. Summary of what I see here - I should try to remove the rear shims. Also, I should make sure all the adjuster sleeves will move PRIOR to taking it to the shop for an alignment. My local shop is willing to try it - but I know they will come to a screeching halt and or jack up my wallet if they have to mess with frozen bolts.

 

[NateM1123LA]

once i have my lift installed this will be much easier!

ive never seen a truck(that’s not brand new) with no rust.
the bolts look like they were made yesterday.
frame paint looks perfectly preserved.
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Hey curious bout this old project, did this fix your camber or did you also have to get diff springs? was it super hard getting the u a arm back together? thanks!