Recent content by aw113sgte

I did this with a pipe. Eliminates any chance of slipping (on that side at least).

Verified they are the same top and bottom (the control arm balljoint boots). You can order new ones from ATAP at $60.72 each - they have them in stock. You have to remove the spring, axle, drain the hub to change them out.

Changed all the diff fluids today, front one had a sliver but looks like its a piece of the NPT threads on the fill/drain. Middle may have had a tinyyyy bit of water but scoping the diff internals showed no rust. Got the new batteries and the wallet is hurting (6-700 a piece) from the AGMs but...

Less than surprised...mine from the same people leaks as well.

Newer versions of install instructions. Has some better detail - especially in diagrams of connectors and pins.

I have cruise/set/res wired correctly, and cat see cat ET registers all 3 switch positions correctly. I wired a relay to cut the cruise on circuit when hitting the brake. All that works as it should...just can't seem to adjust speed while in CC.

Another weekend out making memories! Highlight was the trout stream. Noticed cruise control doesn't let me increase or decrease speed once engaged. Normally clicking set/resume would increase and decrease speed by 1mph but this didn't work. Holding seemed to error out cruise and had to cycle...

So.... If you were missing your dash vent pieces, take a look in your vent panel. Looks like a bored Marine was pulling out 223 bullets. This was also in the air vent.

Looks like the classic YouTube drama for clicks. We've been in some high winds in a the MTV, noise is the main thing. Yeah it can rock a little bit no big deal at all.

"Whine" is not really descriptive. Air will release from the quick release valves. Yes the system can take a long time change pressure as these are high volume tires. Increasing pressure will take longer if revs are low as the compressor is spinning slower. If the light eventually goes solid...

Being that it's a unimog I wouldn't be surprised if it has one of those torsionless subframes. Post up the video and we can take a look and see if there's other information to get from it. I've not heard any issues with people with spring captive subframe mounts.

I read that I worried the same. Learn from my mistake. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/dealing-with-issues-due-to-half-assed-ctis-engineering.221606/

Can you post up the OD, ID, height, coil resistance? Can probably cross reference something.

Nevermind....it shows the 5 solenoids as a "harness". Shouldn't be too hard to figure out, you have the ID, OD, height, voltage, I bet digikey will have some options.

I I think there was a parts break down in the MTVR manuals, they likely have the same solenoid.