Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
The fast idle solenoid is not powerful enough to move the throttle lever on its own. Any time the key is on and the coolant temperature is below 94° the green wire to the fast idle solenoid should have 12 volts. If you don’t touch the throttle after turning on the ignition the fast idle solenoid...
If you had to bash out the internals of the return line check valve. Your injection pump is coming apart inside and needs to be rebuilt. Getting that done will probably fix your problem.
Another thought I has was your fast idle solenoid. Do you push the throttle about half way down after...
I didn’t open LMC to follow up each part number. However, the name of the parts look like you are on the right track. I would also suggest new biodiesel grade hoses at the fuel tank to solid line connections. Follow the metal line all the way from the tank to the fuel pump and replace any other...
Have you checked the ground from the batteries at the frame connection? Same with the ground strap from the starter if it has one and the ground strap from the engine to the frame.
You can turn the fuel up a little to get some power. But the reality is that without a turbo it is never going to set the world on fire.
I see in your signature that you have CUCV 6.2 experience. So, you might actually feel a difference turning up the IP. No one with out 6.2 experience will be...
If there is not much but rust in there. Patience and lots of lube with the thread chasers will be the less destructive. A tap will work, but it will remove the most metal while doing so.