Recent content by Barrman

I forgot to address the dog walking. How do you know? If someone told you they saw it doing that. Have that same person get behind the other side of the vehicle and watch how it “dog walks” that way too. The rear axle is not as wide as the front. It will always look like it is going sideways by...

Rear mounted turbo’s have been done before. My problem with them is the oil supply and return.

Well in that case. Add a GM turbo, run the exhaust outside the frame rail to in front of the rear tire and then do the HMMWV single exhaust fording stack.

Are you just going for the look? I ask that because nothing on a CUCV is prepared for water above the bottom of the differentials

TM 9-2320-289-34 Section 6-12 page 6-78 is where the M1009 ball joints are discussed. Just use a ball joint puller on each of them. The uppers have an adjustment sleeve. I don’t remember a flange on the ball joints.

True, neither the Banks or the GM turbo units will whistle like a M35A2 C model turbo as for what can be heard from the drivers seat. However, they both do make turbo sounds at the tail pipe for people next to the vehicle.

You have two basic options for adding a turbo to a square body Chevy with a 6.2 or 6.5 engine. Banks or GM. here is a video about it and what is good about each:

Take the terminals off the discharged battery and charge it. Once charged, leave it disconnected and see if it will hold voltage. Once it does that hook it back up and then test hours or a day later.

Here is another video on the same theme:

The battery closest to the headlight on a stock CUCV is the battery that provides the 12 volts to run the basic Chevy stuff. Here is a video about it: I would suggest checking the voltage on both batteries separately. If they both have 12.6 or so volts then move onto the battery terminals and...

Fork lift loading to sell at auction has done that many time in the past.

I would suggest putting the switch on the ground wire of the starter relay. That way if the switch ever fails you can hot wire it and not worry about getting a jolt in the process.

You get to wire the 3 pin flasher plug into your harness. Along with the I think 7 pin plug at the blinker arm. It will be fun. You get to work with wire A or B or C and match them up to wire 20 or something like that. I have done it several times now.

Everything you wrote about alternative fuels is correct. So is the reply about filtering at least some way. Reality is that by the time you get a good pump. (Note that the air operated harbor freight 55 gallon drum one might work for about 30 gallons in my experience.). Source barrels, metal...

Do you have the solid state blinker wiring or the old mechanical Spartan unit wiring for blinkers in your new harness? As long as you have your old 3 pin plug for the box and the harness from your blinker arm, it can be made to work. I did that on my M715 which is exactly the same as the M35A2...