Recent content by Coug

The gauges are pretty much only there for reference, not to be treated as accurate. As long as the gauges are showing the same results under the same operating conditions, don't worry about them. When they start showing you something different, then you start worrying. Feltz tire is 100%...

First step is always verify. If you still have the old gauge I'd reinstall it and see if it goes back to your old readings, just for comparison's sake. An IR thermometer used at the sending unit in the block to verify the temp would also be very useful. I know in my HMMWV I've had to do...

For oil extractor I've been using an Extoil brand manual extractor for about 2 years now for my business and it's held up excellent. They appear to be unavailable from the place I bought it, but found one on ebay for about what I paid. Bought it for my VW engine (I don't have to put it up on...

Insulation, tunnel Top NSN 2540-01-610-6115 I didn't find it in the manuals either, but midwest had an image of it in their "cab interior / insulation" parts and an NSN to look up from there. Of course they have none available and no price, but a search of the NSN did turn it up elsewhere...

Parts are typically separated by serial number, so if you know your truck's serial number that will also help.

Not sure if the newer paint cans suffer the same issue, but the older cans they used seemed to have issues if they sat for too long, even brand new. Purchasing directly from Rapco is the easiest way to get the freshest cans of paint.

Radiator hoses will be the same for either, but the R1 series is a bit of an oddball (recapitalization program trucks that started out as either 3 or 4 speed and upgraded to heavy suspension). For other parts, if you have a 3 speed use the M1097A1 for parts, if it's 4 speed use the M1097A2 for...

Most things that run on JP-8 will run just fine on diesel fuel. Diesel isn't quite as clean as JP-8, but that usually isn't an issue for most engines. If it were mine I would start putting a load on it and see if it runs any better. Diesel engines like to run hot to properly burn the fuel...

I think it gets wired in series with the neutral safety switch, as the truck won't crank if it doesn't see that circuit.

If it was incorrectly hooked up, was the wrong type, or wrong voltage, then yes, it is possible to fry the start box. Typically they get fried by connecting/disconnecting the start box wiring while the batteries are still connected. You won't fry glow plugs with a battery charger. You'd have...

Military equipment has a usable life. Easiest way to measure that life is years from date of acquisition. Many of the trucks seem to have a 10 year rebuild, then surplused out at 20 years from acquisition. My truck had on it's decal that it was reset at 26 miles, and auctioned off at 32 miles...

If the truck is idling and the tach reads 900+ RPMs, then it's extremely likely that it has a 400 amp alternator with the small pulley, which makes the tach read about 36% higher than actual RPMs. At 50mph a truck with 3.08 gearing (any of the turbo motor trucks, most obvious external feature...

Operating range is 180-220. Once the engine is warmed up, it should stay within that range during idle. Outside temperature will affect engine temps, but it should still be in that range in all but the most extreme conditions. In very cold weather it might take a long time to warm up to that...

Might want to start by posting the actual model of the units in question.