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It's how the TS switch is connected internally. Power comes in and then goes out to the .mil flasher. It then comes back to the TS switch. The indicator bulb is wired between the power going out and coming back giving you the effect of a 80s Chevy fender marker light blinking out of sequence...
1Q: Yes
2Q: 5th battery, separate 12V system. [toys]
3Q: Waterproof connector is the temp sender, It's behind the bypass hose. Output wire looks correct in your photo.
4Q: My red 4g wire from alt output to large stud on starter with cable going to batteries.
5Q: No, my green wire is the ground...
I should add leave the current output wire on the alt, you will have power on both sides of the run relay of the PCB and not need to use the Battery switch on the dash if you are using a separate cut off switch.
It took more than a week, but I have AC now. Of course, ambient temperature is now low and I don't need it..........
Yes, I dismounted the spare. If I need it I'm calling somebody younger!
Did you mean to say that the Parking-Running lights in the front do not stay on when the headlights are on?
If so, that is how the three lever light switch is internally connected. You can [fix] that with a three amp/50v
diode. It's been too long since I did it myself so I can't tell you which...
You are somewhat close. While an inverter is not designed to be a charger, a battery should charge and level off depending on the output voltage of the inverter. If the inverter puts out 13.8-14.2V then the battery should charge at about 12.6V, or what we would normally expect. Your liftgate is...
There use to be a company out of Longview WA that made complete armored M923s. Don't remember the name and can't even find a picture
but would know it if I saw one. Logging company that did it on the side I think. Anybody with better search foo?
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