Recent content by GeneralDisorder

Typically in such cases they are designed to use the control valve body assembly mounting bolts (once removed) as the jacking bolts. I don't know that for a fact but that is convention in the industry so I HIGHLY suspect that is the case here. That's not a pan. It's a control valve body...

You remove the Phillips sheet metal screws above and to the back and on the front where the strip of sheet metal that the lid hooks to is mounted and the entire PDP pulls out on a wiring service loop. The military has specifications that require such service loops for maintenance accessibility...

You don't need the support for a hatch - just a weapons system because a tall weapons system will hang off the cab when you tilt it and pop the windshield out on the ground in front of the truck due to the torsion of the tall mounted turret assembly. A hatch will be low profile and will not have...

Just put the evap core and expansion valve in front of the recirculation vent inside some sheet metal. Valve off the heater core, and close the fresh air flapper. Toggle switch to turn on the compressor clutch and condenser fans. (wired through a standard trinary switch of course). AC is basic...

Which unit do you need the diagram for? AC was only officially installed in LSAC, LVAD, and LTAS cabs. And yes some of the ETM's don't have the breakdown of the internal components and there are multiple generations - one cable operated variant and then the stepper motor gen-2 and then a further...

The redline didn't change - you can't go faster without changing gearing. Not a matter of power in this case really. The 370 makes a difference in acceleration. Top speed is achievable with any of the C7 maps.

I have noticed over the last couple thousand miles, with the engine now fairly broken in, and with ECO hubs and stock gears I'm not getting any blowby and not losing ANY engine oil. Checked it on a level surface a couple times recently at about 2500 to 3000 miles (on the oil) and it is DEAD NUTS...

Which he is in the process of swapping out like two other guys I know - because ECO hubs are already falling down the backside of the benefit curve with 3.90's. 3.07's with ECO hubs is just a transitional state that is not preferred over one of the two options on its own.

There's where I left my gazinta....... Gazinta the trash.

Probably needs a cleaner / wipe flash file loaded onto it first to blow away whatever the previous application was. I've encountered ECM's that had to be flashed 3 or 4 times to step them through different revisions and such. Never seen that specific issue but it doesn't surprise me - the CAT...

Depends what you are doing and what your GVW will be fully loaded and equipped. NEVER recommend highway gears and ECO hubs at the same time. That is never something you want. People have done it by circumstance not by choice.

Vapor from the vent is considered normal operation and is mentioned in the manual as well as PS Magazine articles. Read the -10 soldier.

Could also run them strictly from the slave receptacle and not have any permanent wiring.

Clean the sensors and reinstall. They almost never go bad. I've never had to replace one. They are mildly magnetic and do pickup ferrous dust and shavings from the brakes and the road. The sensors just pull out the back. Wipe them off, inspect the hole with a flashlight and then reinstall and...

All you really need to accomplish this is a ridgid floor pan for the habitat that duplicates the mini-frame that is bolted directly to the floor of the M1079 van box. It's made of 3" x 1/4" wall "C" channel. As long as the floor is capable of ridgidly supporting the box when it lifts one corner...