Recent content by GeneralDisorder

Sure you can torture any data set til it tells you what you want to hear. But the point is that I didn't have to even look for that clip. It just happened to be posted yesterday and came across my feed with no searching. They are crap. You don't actually believe they aren't do ya? Really...

Nope. They are 100% all horrible. None of them are getting my money.

2008 M1079 is my daily for the last four years. 28k miles. Alternate is my 1984 M1009. 9k original miles. Secondary alternate is a 2004 Nissan Quest that I inherited with 75k. It's worth nothing because no one wants them. It's paid for. It's low mileage. It's pre-CANBUS. It's horrible. I hate...

I don't see the point in wasting my time. If I'm going to have to fix it myself anyway why am I paying a premium for a pile of poorly designed plastic with a warranty not worth the ink?

Video from yesterday from a repair shop that comes across my feed: Jeep gladiator engine warranty nightmare - 45k miles - engine failure (jumped out of time). Replacement engine from dealer failed with under 300 miles. Then they give them the total run-around on warrantying the replacement...

I'm guessing they copied the higher pressure map over to all the unused program slots so if there's some wiring malfunction and it loads a different profile it's less likely to be "too low" as that would be more dangerous than too high if you're heavily loaded. But I have not actually checked...

Nothing that I can find. Looking in the software all the settings match 1088/1089. I just went with it. I was going to reroute to pin Z but my truck has no wire there so just because I'm lazy I checked the settings with it just cut and it was already set to what I wanted so I just left it that...

That's how I have my truck wired. I can select 55 or 81 with a toggle switch. Works with all the controllers I've tried. I went over that in post number 1 of this thread.

You don't have to do that - just cut wire number 1911 and leave it as an open circuit. That will enable 81 psi mode (M1088/M1089).

You misspelled Stellantis. Or Fiat..... Whichever is closer for that particular model of their progeny. "Jeep" is a brand name. Fully owned by a European investment group that is not headquartered in the USA therefore Jeep is no longer an American brand. Not that this matters in the slightest...

Pretty much noises or leaking or the bushings are falling out, etc. If you don't see any oily stains streaking down from the shaft - it's likely just about as good as when it was made...... Which is not a statement of suitability for any particular purpose.

I've installed several BRAND NEW (not even old stock - as in manufactured in the last 2-3 years) shocks and compared them to my 2008 units and can discern no difference between them. If you move them slow they move very easy. If you try to move them fast they get so stiff you can't move them at...

Deleting the springs turned them into a simple shock - other than *not* buying a new thing - I did "delete" them in the sense that they aren't a coil over anymore. It was a free modification that ended up making a lot of sense. I'm still technically using the stock parts though so I'm calling...

They aren't nitrogen filled shocks. I've never seen one fail that wasn't rusted out. And in any case they are all over the place being used on A1P2's manufacturered up through 2021 and will still be used on the A2 wrecker that is staying with the A1P2 LTAS cab layout. So these will be literally...

I would just encourage you to delete the coil spring first, install a habitat second, and then the third step will be deciding if you even need to do anything else once you have removed the armor package springs and have full habitat weight........ I'm not. It's perfectly fine IMO. And I'm not...