Recent content by HelluvaEngineer

Thanks again to everyone. I was just able to pull the lock and install the new one. In my case, I used a narrow flathead in the slot on the top left while jiggling the key and it walked right out. Now I'm just waiting on the 7830377 screw to arrive from the Ebay vendor and I can put...

Thanks all for the feedback. I want to save something here. I think ChatGPT hit a home run. For our non-tilt steering wheels, it appears that GM P/N 7830377 should be the correct retaining pin, with no spring required. I'm going to pull out the old one, use the new style, and hopefully this...

I've found that most of the M1009 owners have the newer models with the forward radio mounts. Unfortunately, mine seems to be a very early one. Apparently I got some leftover parts.

Yes, absolutely. That's when the cheapo cast cover broke off. What I'm trying to explain is that I think there were two versions of the lock cylinder. Some if the 84's apparently have this style. I do not have the pin nor the cover screw that most of them have.

There was nothing in that hole. In my case I think this is the older 70's style release that is farther back. Honestly if I don't figure this out in the next couple of days I'm gonna jam a small screwdriver in the back slot and liberally apply the slide hammer.

I currently have the exact same issue except your 1984 is a LOT cleaner than mine.

I am replacing some parts in my M1009 steering column and while I'm in there I wanted to replace the lock cylinder to one that doesn't have the universal CUCV key. Also, I pretty much have to now as the face of it just broke off as I was trying to remove it. What is the trick to get it to...

I've sorted out a lot of things on my M1009 over the past couple of years. I would like to put a fluiddampr on it sometime this fall. I have done dampers before, but with the engines out of the bay. I'll be doing this one in my driveway, unfortunately. What needs to be removed to do this job...

I realized yesterday that I seated the seal on the back of the rotor too far down. Should have been flush. It still has plenty of clearance from the bearing so I'm going to live with it for now, but I'm kicking myself after getting everything else right.

Coming back to this issue. I finished rebuilding the driver's side and moved on to the passenger's side today. Things are going much faster now that I know what to do. I just pulled out the short half shaft and sure enough, the u-joint is locked up on one axis. The locking hub was...

Thanks for the screen cap. It's interesting how that order of operations is completely different than what I saw everywhere else.

I think it's the right size but the taper it's mating with is now nice and greasy. I really don't want to push directly on the ball joint with a jack but that may be where this is headed. That would put a lot of pressure on the c-clip.

I was hoping to get a quick win after work today by installing my steering knuckle with the new ball joints. No dice. The lower ball joint is just spinning in it's assembly. I can't torque it. I tried using a jack and a cylinder from my press kit to push up on the knuckle without damaging...

Thanks for looking. I saw the same in the TM. Just referred to it as a group of parts or something. Update: installed these tonight. That is indeed the correct part number for my application (M1009)

Amazon had these with next day delivery so I took a chance. These do appear to be correct. They are greasable but it's on the cap. You get a flush plug and I assume that when you want to service them you need to screw in a zerk. That's OK with me since they will be much easier to get to...