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if there is no plan to make it automatic, then why not a manual switch? its a ton cheaper
https://www.ebay.com/p/Eaton-Corporation-DT224URK-NPS-C-H-200-Amp-2P-DT-SW-240-Volt-Safety-Switch/2254921694?iid=273194583352
its a great answer.
last question, like you said the regulator adjusts the voltage, so how did the op adjust the voltage (too low) while in start? apparently the excitor regulates as well to some degree?
guyfang,
can you explain to me how the voltage regulator works in start but not in run? if it was burned out, he would not have correct voltage? what am i missing here?
inverter/ regular generators, changes nothing in regards to gauges. the inverter changes are on the DC side of the circuit, not on anything you care to monitor
the generac from what i have been told works off frequency and is completely independent of the generator, thus should work with any of them, i would go smm modules
rv won't split anything out, load balancing is done by breaker per phase, so if there is an air conditioner and a microwave on the same phase, he risks overloading only 1 side of the generator.
for the best load balance and NOT requiring 240v in the rv, the generator should be run in 120v mode...
Have to read the specs. right from your post
Input Voltage: 105-130 VAC 50/60 Hz 1025 Watts
1025/120=8.5A,thus at max load the charger will use about 8.5A, not factoring in power factor(that's another subject)
Ranger, be careful, that 20 amp charger is prolly at 12v DC, not 120v AC. if it pulled 20A AC, it would have to be capable of almost 200A DC ( which is about 1% chance it is).