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if there is no plan to make it automatic, then why not a manual switch? its a ton cheaper https://www.ebay.com/p/Eaton-Corporation-DT224URK-NPS-C-H-200-Amp-2P-DT-SW-240-Volt-Safety-Switch/2254921694?iid=273194583352

its a great answer. last question, like you said the regulator adjusts the voltage, so how did the op adjust the voltage (too low) while in start? apparently the excitor regulates as well to some degree?

guyfang, can you explain to me how the voltage regulator works in start but not in run? if it was burned out, he would not have correct voltage? what am i missing here?

they are talking about modified sine wave inverters. that is not the case here.

inverter/ regular generators, changes nothing in regards to gauges. the inverter changes are on the DC side of the circuit, not on anything you care to monitor

it doesn't talk to anything, it watches frequency on the line, if it drops it sheds, you can use up to 8, which has predetermined time out periods.

the generac from what i have been told works off frequency and is completely independent of the generator, thus should work with any of them, i would go smm modules

Um, what? the AC in a RV is 120v, not 240.

then change the wiring to 6gauge, and run in 120v on the MEP, and you should be fine

Ranger, please read the post a couple up that i wrote. i explained it correctly, Triple is incorrect. i gave you the connections you needed.

rv won't split anything out, load balancing is done by breaker per phase, so if there is an air conditioner and a microwave on the same phase, he risks overloading only 1 side of the generator. for the best load balance and NOT requiring 240v in the rv, the generator should be run in 120v mode...

should be fixed

correct 26 amps total PER LEG 2 LEGS = 26+26=52 120v is 1 leg =52A His cutter is 240v, NOT 120v

Have to read the specs. right from your post Input Voltage: 105-130 VAC 50/60 Hz 1025 Watts 1025/120=8.5A,thus at max load the charger will use about 8.5A, not factoring in power factor(that's another subject)

Ranger, be careful, that 20 amp charger is prolly at 12v DC, not 120v AC. if it pulled 20A AC, it would have to be capable of almost 200A DC ( which is about 1% chance it is).

yes ranger, when you flip the switch to 240, it reverses one of the winding's in the generator head to give you 240v, the wattage does not change, just the amperage per leg, so in 240v you get 26a per leg, or l1(26A) +l2(26A)= 52A total, in 120v single phase mode the winding's are in parallel...

you are using a 200 amp dc battery charger?

think about what your saying, 26*2=52, there is no more power. the only difference is if the loads are greatly unbalanced and one side pulls more then 26 amps. generally though the big use items are on either side of the panel. ultimately if you are sure you will never run anything 240...

lets be clear here, the 30 amp connection is a 120v 3 wire setup. 50 amp is a 4 wire 240v connection REGARDLESS if only using 120v from either phase. people need to be careful with the 30 amp connection as its similar to a 30 amp dryer plug, yet the dryer plug is 240 and will smoke stuff in the...

http://www.proheat.com/PDFs/SL9500.pdf