Recent content by Mogman

In any case if the start wire is hot all the time you likely toasted the starter/solenoid. Back in the day the wire that was only hot when the starter was engaged to was to by-pass the ign resistor on gasser motors to give a hotter spark while cranking, I have no idea what it would do on a diesel...

I keep meaning to look and see if there is a reason they did not include the ability to "jam" the pump rod like the SB and BB chevys.

Do you have good power to the rest of the truck, head lights etc?

Did the red fluid come out of the vent side or diesel side of the pump? You should check the transfer case first to see if it is over full, you should also check the diffs and hubs, it does sound like you are pumping trans fluid into the vent system, via an over full transfer case.

I almost always test circuits with everything connected, you can get "good" voltage on a circuit when disconnected from the load for it to simply go away when the load is connected. If all you are trying to trouble shoot is a single circuit from the IGN. switch to the starter with only one...

How are you coming with this conversion? I was wondering if you were able to make the late model fuel tank work, I bought one but ended up using the early tank for clearance issues.

That is definitely a hydraulic pump noise, could be the trans but most likely the steering pump, some are just noisier than others, if it were the Cadillac valve the noise would drastically change as the fan turned on and off.

Sounds pretty normal to me for a truck with the remote PS reservoir, maybe a little more pronounced than usual, but does not sound like a "present danger" sound.

What are you going to test? the solenoid will not do anything without the plunger being installed so it can slam into the back of the solenoid and close the starter contacts. Also if it is like most Delco solenoids the coil in the solenoid grounds through the terminal going into the starter, one...

One other thing that you did not cover, have you made sure the return line is not plugged, if the IP wires being switched does not pan out try running a line from the return fitting on the IP into a bucket and then give it a try.

Just put one hand on the bolt and then try to touch that hand from the inside, should be able to do it with your eyes closed.

The nuts are inside the cab, not all that hard to get to, I change them all the time by myself and I am really old. EDIT, without the doors

According to RWH who likely changes more IPs than anyone else said he would only go to HPG or MAC motors for ether a rebuilt or new IP. These are not the cheapest options but the labor to change the IP 2 or 3 times until it is right is massive, do it once and be done with it.

You would have been wise to come here first, if you look down a few posts here to "injection pump reinstall" you would see that DCP is listed as an unreliable source for IPs do not cheap out as it WILL bite you in the ass. ditch those tires they are too old unless you do not plan on driving on...

Welcome to the SS forums! Your truck has 2.73 gears, they are available in 2.56, 2.73 and 3.07 so yes you could switch to 2.56 gears but then you might not have enough power to push that box any faster. The oil pressure is somewhere from diddly to squat, if you get 10psi hot idle to 25-30 hot at...