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568 was a left over from the 60A alt days and should have been plugged (capped) off and tied back to the harness.

That U joint is bad at the transfer case, you can clearly see the play in it (at the 2 second time mark), also any time you see red (rust) around a U joint it is likely bad.

What model wiring diagram are you looking for?

I could see that possibility, if the ign. terminal (5A) was back-feeding voltage to the system, but surly by now he has disconnected all the terminals off of the regulator to eliminate that possibility, that was suggested early in this thread.

Do you have an electric lift pump installed?

I'm pretty sure you would simply put the new valve in line with the original valve (series connection)

29A is power to the run circuit.

When it died the first time was it "sudden" as in the engine seemed to seize all of a sudden? Then when you tried to restart the engine would not turn over (rotate)? If so it probably did hydro lock and you likely have a bent rod.

Pulling the connector on the regulator would have been the first thing I would have tried. Disconnecting wire 29A off of the master start switch would have been second. If you have changed six smart boxes it seems very doubtful it is a smart box.

Use a mirror or an endoscope and check the gear on the output shaft of the transfer case.

Looks like it is well laid out! Sorry for your health issues, hope you get better soon!!

PICTURES!!

The grade 5 bolts at TSC are not painted, it is some type of plating/coating

The only caveat to what Coug said is that if your M1097R1 has a 4 speed and a GVWR of 10K (vs10.3K) it has A1 half shafts, hubs and springs and possibly drive shafts

Dang, another LMM followed me home, this one is a 2007.5 year model I have not been able to power up the dash yet but I found a receipt where he installed $2400 worth of tires at 279K and the tires look like new so it does have high mileage. But the engine is just too clean for going on 300K and...

Just remember not to let a tire shop try to break the bead in a conventional manor, it will not work and damage will likely result.

Turned 25K on the conversion this week with no significant re-work of the original installation, still loving every minute

I would like to hear who is insuring your FAV, JCT says heck no that is a dune buggy

Before you spend allot of money putting lipstick on a PIG, if increasing performance is important then a re-power is cheaper with a much bigger boost in performance.

Look around any old shop or garage and you may find one, air compressor, Oxy/Acetylene regulators etc. (DO NOT return any gauge used with oil to O/A service!) You can also remove the lead from the sending unit and open/short it to ground, I never can remember which is which because over the...