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If it is in limp mode and the trans light works you should have codes if the TCM is good, you should not have to run it hard to get a code.

It could be one or both squirrel cages are loose, or there is some crap floating around in there or the bearings are gone in the motor, you are going to have to unbolt it and turn it over to see, I think you should be able to fix it without disturbing the lines if you are careful

I don't think RTV would be good enough, a good epoxy would be my answer, and as DREDnot stated I would buff (lightly grind) all areas to be epoxied to expose a virgin surface.

Did it measure as a short?

If you would be kind enough to put together a short guide I would be happy to make it a sticky!

What would the neutral switch have to do with the transmission? it is only to prevent starting in gear.

Until the gen starts working it can be no higher than battery voltage, did you test it with the gen connected? (to wire 568) use a sharp meter lead and pierce the jacket, you always want to test voltage with the circuit complete, otherwise the voltage and be there when disconnected but go away...

Do you have 24v going to wire 568 with the truck in run.

Day late and a dollar short :D

Yes that is the cross but I have never bought one.

What is the serial number of your truck?

I am not sure I would condemn it based on that small black spot, if it is bad it should measure as a dead short . MOVs are protection devices that are insignificant in the operation of a device, to say you can cut it out and it should not affect the operation only that circuit will not have any...

By the way, Welcome to the SS forums! I do not believe you should have 5V at the TPS when off, it looks like you have a defective TCM. It seems you have done a thorough job of troubleshooting the issue. All HMMWV TCMs are basically interchangeable only the shift points are a little different...

You need to check 290C/291C (connected to trans relay) to make sure the trans relay is releasing when run switch is off.

There is a seal kit, I would have to see if I have the number, it is a "universal" kit that has a couple different size seals. You will need a seal lip tool like pictured and do not follow the youtube videos where they just cram the thing together and hope for the best as you will likely ruin...

If you have the 400A alt. you need to carefully check the wiring harness passing behind and below the alt, they are very bad about shorting out because it was never intended to pass around such a large alternator.

Welcome to the SS forums! How did I miss this? anyhow as 155MM said use the supplement, the first thing to do is try and get the codes, it is real simple...

Boy, one of those dealers really lays it on thick? I am really cautious about anyone that puts that much fluff on their sales (trying to be as diplomatic as I can)

The rods are very hard and brittle, they do not bend they break, and yes the pump can break it.

If you do not make sure the rod is up in the block it will break.