Recent content by Roadracer86

Thanks for the offer Anthill, my concoction actually worked pretty darn good and it took only a few hours to assemble and about $100 in materials. I sold the genset last week so I'm all set. I do appreciate your offer though, everyone on this site is very helpful and accommodating; I can't say...

Lol, you're a braver soul than me; I would never try that. Electricity scares the crap out of me, mainly because I don't know that much about it.

Did you notice a difference? Less smoke emission? Do you add the ATF once or for a couple tanks? I've used the Marvel Mystery oil for other stuff but never as a fuel additive, thanks for the advice, I'll pass this on to the buyer. I did tell him about Steel Soldiers so I'm sure he'll be...

Yes, counter sunk 1/4 inch screws, nuts and washers and globed them up with elephant snot, AKA silicon bathroom sealer. No backer plates just the screws and nuts; I let the silicon dry for 24 hours to make sure it was dry and used liquid pipe sealer on the heater elements to stop the threads...

You can get them at Lowes or Home Depot; here's the Lowes link for the 1 inch floor flange. Get a good 1 1/4 metal hole saw to cut the holes in the drum; I burnt up two hole saws getting through the drum but the drum was thicker than normal...

I'm selling it to upgrade to a Kubota GL11000 which are mighty expensive but much quieter and smaller. I got $4k out of it but I added some stuff to it such as an oil pan heater, new marine batteries and I have a bunch of new filters that go along with the unit along with the trailer which is...

It smoked some but I've only run this thing with slight loads such as hand drills and an 110 volt welder for a few minutes so the exhaust is probably chalked full of oil from running this thing for 26 hours with little or no load. I bought it with 3 hours on the clock since the reset from...

Ok, load test completed; 13,500 watt with 100% load and it ran like a champ. My make shift water boiler worked wonderful, thanks guys for all your input. Could not have done it without ya. Here's a video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SL23eFODgQ&feature=em-upload_owner

Nice work Lee; my welds would never look that good hence the silicon and flanges. My welds always come out looking like chewed bubble gum with more holes than swiss cheese. I'll snapped a few pics of my make shift rig before the melt down on Sunday. Should be interesting.

Thanks guys, So far I'm going to use a 3 separate wire set up with three elements rated at 240v 4500 watts. One thing that I came up with that I think will work with mounting these elements into or onto the side of the 55 gallon steel drum is a 1 inch pipe thread flange that I can mount with...

Great points Ratch; I've been thinking about this and adding an additional element would make it that more of a proper test. I'm assuming that the ground lug on the set L0 will not be used and I'll just run the L1 and L3 lugs to each post on the 3 heater elements each with their own #12 romex...

Ok, thank you just want to make sure. I appreciate everyone's help!!! You guys are wonderful.

When you say box are you talking about the L1, L2, L3 and L0 box correct or the Square D box with the breaker? Just want to make sure I don't destroy anything in the process.

Ok, I've lost ya here; the bonded jumper is on the skid frame of the generator correct? Mine is connected and it also has a copper lead that runs from that bonded jumper to a flat part of the trailer with a butterfly nut. I was thinking the bonded jumper stays connected and I run a copper wire...

Ok cool, so the 100a picture is the Square D box. I'll snap some photos once I get everything set up; do you think a Copper rod spike for ground is needed or can you use a solid steel ground spike?