Recent content by Ronmar

if you unscrew the nut you can lift the coil and cover off of the valve core to look for a P/N. the whole core should unscrew from the valve block to access the actual solenoid valve seat to confirm if it is free and clear to move. Did you measure coil resistance on any of these... they are...

you can leave ground connected to the truck, but disconnect AND INSULATE the terminals on the 14, 28 and E terminal cables. Connect one jumper cable lead from alt gnd terminal to - on your 24v test battery connect a second jumper cable lead from the 14V alt terminal to the middle of your 24V...

What general said. If i recall from the neihoff troubleshooting manual, the E terminal input only needs to be above 21V . It comes from relay k11 pin 87A(de-energized contact) in the panel. K11 de-energizes to power/enable the regulator E terminal once you see 15PSI of oil pressure. The...

did you pull the bottom plastic cover of the PCU and confirm the wiring inside?

have you confirmed it is indeed a bad solenoid coil? the PCU connector on mine is jammed up against the structure, and if yours is also, you could be experiencing a wiring issues for the control solenoid circuit at the PCU or somewhere else in the dash, and not necessarily a bad coil. beyond...

yea that sounds about right. after you went to sand it went back to its programmed highway pressure.

Yea 5 solids is a dead controller. Should be able to simply power down and plug in the new one. Make sure the ground connection at the bottom case bolt is good… CTIS usually has issues with air leakage, and since it is trying to control the air bombs we call tires with a pressure gauge and a...

The PPD isn’t an issue as the only current that goes thru it, is the current consumed by the truck via the dash power panel and that only changes if you add load… the PPD does serve as a tie point between alternator and batteries, but the 14 and 28 volt leads from alt and batteries are simply...

Looks like a crimp blank that mis-fired? there are pass-thru ports with rubber covers in them for all the cab wiring just down each side of the engine tunnel at the front, both left and right...

The alt and batt are a system. The alt will not work right if there are connection and battery issues, so you must insure those things are correct before you can call it a bad alt.

The dual volt alt must have a proper connection to 12v in the middle of the 24v battery, with decent battery condition to regulate properly. It is not just a regulator it is also a balancer. If it does not see proper battery connection/response, this it will derate… your loose connection at...

Ok, looks like someone already downsized the bank to group 24 batts. To drop to 2 batts is easy. Simply remove the terminals on a front(front of truck) or rear pair and tape over the disconnected terminals… innermost terminals are 24v, middle 4 tied together are 12v outermost are ground… You...

Group 31’s need box modifications, dropping to a pair if the 6t batts that are in there is probably the easiest. You may be able to charge and load test your 4 and find you have a serviceable pair right there already… since the truck has more 12 than 24v load, the 12v pair is often the pair...

Yea the dual volt alt was not the best idea, paired with the monster battery bank it was the kind of problem that class action lawsuits are made of in the real world. The 100A dual volt with the 14v side fully loaded only puts out @ 1930W compared to the 2800W of a straight 24V@100A alt. With...

Absolutely do NOt do that! First off you are an A1 and don't have a governor or run solenoid to hook to. Second of all they went to great length to insure the alternator was kept offline until after the engine is running(K11 that powers the alternator is controlled by the oil pressure switch...