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Mmmm smell that balance:)

Well new oil will do that:) There are 2 hooks on the cab that engage the stubs on the side of the arch to pull it into alignment at the last second as the cab lowers. You have a little leeway on where the latch can rest fore-aft on the top of the arch, which should help you set the arch...

special emphasis on that last line! this is the type of job that eats fingers if it goes sideways...

Ok, well a wtec3 would have been easy as they are already all 24v. On the side of the TCU in the drivers dash there should be a date sticker just to confirm you have a 95 or newer TCU. Then it is simply a matter of shifting the battery input to the TCU in the power panel from CB35(12v) to CB43...

Something would have to majorly fail for the engine to damage the transmission as all the parts are designed to deal with full engine output. strange... could be something shorted in the wiring activating solenoids to select a gear ratio AND engaging the lockup clutch. I suspect this would...

I like me a logical explanation…:)

yep, you will still need the 12V for all the lighting, but that is a simple converter like a Victron Orion 70A model. Is this truck a WTEC 2 or 3 transmission controller(they started phasing in the 3's in 98 )...

I guess another possibility is that the spring brakes did not fully release with applied park air? Wonky actuator or wedge? The operation is the sum of all the parts…

Yea, too much unobtanium in the system anyway…

If I recall, the spring loaded teeth(with sawtooth serrated faces) are pushed out of the way and ride over the spiral sawtooth grooves on the plunger as the plungers travel outward(pushed by the wedges) because the two sets of sawtooth ridges meet angle to angle(like teeth on a ratchet). Then...

Well the adjusters only cycle when the actuators cycle the brakes… That sounds weird… is the drum out of round? Take the wheel off, put on some lugs to hold the drum in proper position and spin it...

If it was applied, yep. When I got mine from auction it pulled horribly and brakes were marginal moving it on and off the trailer. 3 of the 4 front shoes were installed backwards...:) It tries to throw you thru the windshield now...

What year is your trans controller? After ~94 the controller can run EITHER 12 or 24. That is also the voltage output to the VIM relays controlled by the TCU, so those relays(neutral start) would have to be swapped. From the 3060 Troubleshooting manual: NOTE: Model Year ’94 and earlier...

The shoes have a perch and an actuator end. If the shoes are ever put on backwards, it can damage the adjusters...

But I did design my own:) works great!

Actually deleting it would be quite easy. Some say 4” box or round tube cut to length and welded in place of the shock assemblies… way easier than building my own system:O

Yep could be shock absorber bushings, the ones on mine I disassembled, the shocks were fine, the bushings had disintegrated, and of course the airbags looked like a cat scratching post… if it is squeaking, look to the hooks from the cab that hook over the pins on the arch. Lube them to quiet...

I have always used a large screwdriver with a notch in the end of the blade… the first time I ever used a set of spring pliers was a genuine “holy shit that was easy” moment:)

IS yours still intact, or are you needing one because you don't have one? If you have one, you can pull it, remove the covering over the center and access the bearing, replace the bearing with a comparable sealed bearing and re-install...

Yep, lotta simple ways to fry this fish...:) Planning something similar for stability, 2 angled struts(~60 degree down angle) with baseplates, running from hardpoints, with a strap or cable winch across between the bases to pull them into tension. kinda like the crank down stability legs seen...