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You don't really need the fuse. There is a digram on the side of the polarity box To confirm, and using a meter to confirm is also a good idea, but the top and bottom studs should be 24 and 12 battery and the two middle studs are 24 and 12 load. You simply put all 3 cables for one...

The park brake must be set/park air removed in order to get air to the air/hydraulic push button control...

And yet another variable are the front cab mounts and pivots... Is your cab on square? Clamp a straight edge onto the frame and measure out to the rear cab edges. Depending on how the front was bolted together or impacts the chassis may have sustained, your cab may be askew IRT the frame...

The sole purpose of that switch is to disable the ether dash switch when the coolant is a little above freezing. mine opens above ~35F. The original P/N out of the 24P manual for the A0 is QS-1190-2SS, specified by the manufacturer of the Ether start system, Quick Start. I don't think they...

yea air in the fuel lines and low primary fuel pressure is not really healthy for the injectors either...

No low coolant switch.. power flows thru CB79(same CB that powers the trans controller), Thru the de-energized contacts(30-87A) of relay K19, the start inhibit relay(allows cranking without starting for maintenance after you push the button in the power panel). From there it’s right on down...

The gauge temp sensor should be on a T fitting on the rear of that housing where this switch is located(To the left in that last pic). There should be another switch(230F high coolant switch) on the inboard side of the yellow thermostat housing, directly opposite the switch in your last pic...

the first set of numbers denotes the wire specs on the wire used on the sensor, 125C thermal rating, 600V insulation rating AWM is the wire type and 46017 is probably the manufacturers cage code. The second set of numbers looks like the sensor part number info, i suspect 30F is the temp...

does the primer work/is it moving fuel?

The more I look at it the more I am thinking, that is the ether high temp cutout sw... which probably means the cable tag will indicate P42. if there is no tag, if you unwrap the wires on the truck side of the connector you will probably find wire numbers 1402 and 1403 stamper on the wires...

I was referring to the cable tag. Out near the electrical plug on either the sensor or the truck side of the plug. There should be a aluminum tag that has the plug or jack number P?? or J?? so we can identify the circuit. based on this second photo it may indeed be the idiot light sw. i...

Need year and model truck, and there should be a label on the wire harness near this sensor’s connector? Also need to know EXACTLY where it is installed… I suspect this is an early A1 and that is the 230F high coolant temp idiot light switch installed in the thermostat housing… yes, most...

Here this may help… If the dash arrows are flashing the front bumper signals should also be flashing. If K30 & K31 are clicking the rear lamps should also be flashing, so some of this may be lights in the bumpers and or bumper grounds… Unlike a normal auto flasher, this is a solid state...

Yep, your ABS light is because the data bus end resistor is fried And it cannot communicate properly… If I recall there is more than one in the system, but I forget their locations. back to your original problem what exactly was flashing on your first controller? Specific LED’s or all 5? I...

30 minutes was a bridge too far for the way S&S did these grounds:) When i get home I can put up a 1 page drawing of the A0 lighting system that may help you look for clues/answers... Pay attention to the 4-5 pin relay differences General alluded to. If i recall there is one of those in the...

If you know someone with a small lathe, you can probably turn one out in aluminum/bronze for a small fraction of that...

oh yea, i guess he could have been talking about the CTIS module below the park brake control... I was referring to the main idiot light panel in the dash in front of the steering wheel.. if the OP was talking about CTIS, leave it unplugged, that's an issue for a later date...

That is simply a wobble cap vent(NPT to hose barb fitting with a brass cap loosely crimped over it to keep insects/debris out) that vents the governor housing. That second pic appears to be the inboard side of the governor? if you unscrew the plastic plug on the forward end that will get you...

well it needs power to light. it being plugged or not can affect relay K11 operation, but your other descriptions lead me to believe you have some power supply issues to resolve first...

4ea of anything will work, 2 of anything in series is probably better in there, as long as they are properly charged... the 6T batts they originally specd for these trucks are too large for the 60A/40A alt they used... Cat specifies a pair of group 31 batteries for the power equipment that...