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Ok thats a mess… Like many .mil systems, this one is a little complex to meet a spec. It can accept light inputs from a towing vehicle, it can provide service or blackout lighting, it can feed a towing vehicle and operate it’s lights remotely and it can provide 24V trailer output to a...

They are not even idiot proof, how could they possibly be EMP proof…

What is the number on that white wire in your hand?

Well it uses a “carburetor” so I suspect a small low pressure oscillating electric diesel pump(auto parts store) may work… Maybe… it might even work with gravity feed. Not sure never played with one and I didn’t see any specs on fuel pressure in the manual… it uses 2 separate blowers. One for...

The oem solid state flashers are a pretty high failure item, and this design has the flasher pulsing 100% of the time. Y0u can disconnect it(under passenger dash) and put a jumper across pin A-B which, if power is available on pin A, will send power thru the rest of the circuit for testing. I...

It ain’t broke till you can’t make(or remake) parts for it:)

It is a special type latching relay, so commanded on and commanded off by signals from the dash switch and LBCD. Remove it, and the busbars connecting it to the output of the manual switch, pull the 12 and 24 wires from the inboard side(may have to find some slack in the wiring) and connect...

Or for us 3 lever crowd, release the lock and rotate the left hand lever to service drive to power brakes and signals… beyond that here is a basic lighting diagram. Full details and component and wire numbers are in the official electrical diagrams in the back of every manual…

Yep, looks like a pressure regulator hamging on the side of the tank. Inboard of that tyere should be a T fitting woth a 1/2” and a 1/4” line on it. The 1/4” is your cab air suspension feed…

Well the cab deflating when park brakes are released tells me the cab is connected to the wrong source. i basically did what General suggested when i deleted my AOP hydraulics. On the rear side of the wet tank there should be a device that looks like a pressure regulator. That is the...

Sounds as if something is not plumbed correctly. the hydraulic/air control manifold that controls the air operated hydraulic pump and the cab air suspension should have 2 separate air sources. The air/hydraulic pump control source comes from a remote control valve that disables that source...

yea that looks pretty good, basically what i built...

No drawing, look back thru the transfer case discussions i linked to on the first page of this discussion. You will find pics of the Allison part there.. There is a single ~.06“ U/V profile channel groove in the middle of the face between the ID and OD (~.06” wide x .06” deep). There are 4...

You may, mine came off perfect and I re-used it, YMMV. It‘s plain paper and round, so I could cut and tap one out with a small ball-peen hammer in perhaps 10 minutes?

You can get aluminum bronze plate 3/8 x 3 x 6(enough for 2 bearings) from Grainger for ~100… There are also a couple of marine thrust washer suppliers that make close dimensions 1-3/4ID to 3” OD but nothing that thick. They could be stacked and sweated/soldered then machined to the correct...

On e the P6 cover and clutch are off the truck, skill level 1, and about 5-10 minutes of your time. 1. With the assembly laying on a bench open end up, use a Large flat bladed screwdriver find the end of the large snap ring just inside the lip of the case and pry one end out of the groove and...

Well the manual says governor should be set to 125…

Is your governor pumping the tanks up to 125PSI? That switch needs something over 117 PSI to close…

Naw, that's clearly a typo... That is all the stuff you must disconnect before the nuke hits...

What general said. And look for flammables under the truck as well. The battery cutout is fine, Keep your weld or PC ground close to your work. Ultimately your current path is from torch to that ground and back thru your equipment. Most mig welders run 30-40VDC. A plasma runs several...