On e the P6 cover and clutch are off the truck, skill level 1, and about 5-10 minutes of your time.
1. With the assembly laying on a bench open end up, use a Large flat bladed screwdriver find the end of the large snap ring just inside the lip of the case and pry one end out of the groove and work your way around the ring to remove it from its groove.
2. Grasp the center protruding portion of the inner plate carrier and lift it and all the clutch rotating and stationary plates and grooves straight up out of the case and set it on a clean surface. This lifts everything except the rearmost stationary disc which is resting on the piston…
3. Pry off the old bearing and install the new thrust washer(both have a lightly tensioned fit).
4. On the center carrier you can lift off each rotating and stationary disc, inspect the clutch media and measure the clutch disc thickness with a vernier calliper.
5. If you unstacked the discs for inspection probably best to re-stack them in the clutch case. There should already be the rearmost steel stationary disc(teeth on outside) in the case setting on the piston. Place the center carrier in the case resting on the new thrust washer. the discs alternate outside/steel-inside/clutch, ect starting with that outside disc that is already on the piston. So on the bare carrier place an inside/rototing clutch disk, than an outside steel disc just like it was when you took it apart, you should end with the top steel outside disc
6. Starting with one end of the large snap ring place it in its groove and bend the ring inward as you work your way around the groove untill the ring is completely inserted in its groove.
basically the piston compresses the steel outer discs against that snap ring, compressing the sandwiched clutch discs together with all that friction surface area, to lock the inner spinning carrier and the shaft it slides over to the outer case…
here is a pic showing the snap-ring still in place before disassembly.
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here is a pic after the snap-ring, carrier and discs are removed, showing my failed bearing. Note that the rear most outer disc is still setting at the bottom on the piston. Depending on how sticky the oil is, it is possible that that rearmost disc might stick to the clutch disc and lift out with the assembly. Just remember that there should be a plain steel disc with outside grooves all the way at the back against the piston and one all the way at the front against the snap-ring. They are the bread in this oily stacked sandwich…
The top steel disc below the snap ring is also thicker than the other stationary steel discs in the stack…
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