Recent content by zarathustra

congrats

The circuitry to hold the K1 contactor shut is fairly straightforward. It is only complex in that the generator has built in overload / short sensing circuitry that will shut the AC off if a fault is detected. I do not believe that the Battle Short switch will override that fault. The S5...

If one battery is bad, then it is likely that the second one will be going soon even if it is OK now. Good luck with Ian....

i have found out that it is easier to work on that separator if the side panel of the control box is off. It can still be a pain to get an (overly) tightened filter off, but that is what mechanics gloves are for. good luck.

It seems as if the speed sensing ciruitry is cutting the starter on and off. You could try simply disconnecting the speed sensing unit and starting the gen. If it runs and doesn't oscillate then something is akilter in the circuitry that shuts off the starter motor. If S 14 is known to be...

The first 802a I ever owned had an intermittent AC interruptor switch. Metered OK when unit was not running, but would fail once it got started (vibrating). That's a weird switch... I always think of it as two switches in one housing. What gave it away was that the indicator light would go...

Could you have the wires to the ammeter gauge connected backwards? Even with fully charged batteries the gauge should normally read high amp draw after first starting the gen and gradually head back to zero or near zero. That is exactly what your ammeter is doing, except it is starting in the...

the problem may not be in the alternator. --- it might be in a phantom "vampire" load that is outside of charging circuit. One way to check this is to shut down the generator when the batteries are fully charged and instead of disconnecting the battery cable, disconnect the alternator. If the...

It's the AM-VM switch. Now I know that seems odd that a switch in the metering circuit can cause an overload error, but when that switch starts to go, overload problems begin. That was the switch that was referred to in the pictures earlier in this thread. When that switch begins to go it'll...

That switch.... A slight amount of corrosion on one of those contacts can cause your problem. If the De-ox seems to work then go ahead and use it ,But I'd buy a new switch and keep it available for backup 'cause that old switch will cause problems in the future.

you might try looking into the storage box on the inside of the right lower front door. The aux filler hose is normally stored into that box. Many times the line might be missing, but ya might get lucky and have one in a generator.

Y'know, I've managed to install S14 backwards and got some pretty odd results. Some of the later S14's are 'murphy proof" but some of the earlier ones weren't.

y'know, the signal and return terminals on a "new" (Beede?) fuel gauge are not necessarily in the same physical position as the original. So, if you are carefully removing the wires from the original gauge, and re-installing them on the "new" gauge in the same physical position as original...

If one battery is discharging and not both I'd replace the batteries. It is false economy to replace only one battery with the two in series. I have three 802/3 gens and have installed battery isolator switches on the ground side of the battery (battery on the left, fuel pump side). I do...

What can happen with the am/vm switch is that it can develop a slightly charred set of contacts internally, yet still make a connection. That slight char creates a tiny resistance. Current across that tiny resistance creates a voltage. That voltage plus the normal voltage generated by the...