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M1009 electical issue

Tbone594

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Hampton, CT
I bought an 85 1009. I have no brake or signal lights. When the key is off there is power to the fuses. When the key is turned on there is no power. The mechanic working on it thinks it has something to do with the 24/12 power conversion. Any ideas as to what I should be looking for?
 

Rvitko

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Austin tx
There is no conversion, everything 12v just use the front battery only, 24v uses both. Lighting suggests a problem in the blackout circuit, key issue suggests the ignition switch which the key actuates has moved or was replaced by a wrong one.
 

Tbone594

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Thanks for your reply. I will pass it along to the mechanic. When I first bought the vehicle when I activated the right turn signal the fuel gauge would drop, indicating a bad ground or short some where. Then about a week ago I lost brake lights. He tells me now I have no signal lights at all. Black out lights had been disconnected when I bought the vehicle. The vehicle originated in Texas, then went to a fire department in Oklahoma, where I suspect some bells and whistles were added and subtracted before it went to auction. Would you suggest converting the system to a straight 12 volt...not as any sort of solution but for practical application?
 

Jeeperjoe

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Ramsey, MN
dumb question as im sure you have already looked,have you made sure the blackout light switches are in the correct position? take a picture of the blackout light switches in the current position and post it up.
 

Tbone594

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Hampton, CT
dumb question as im sure you have already looked,have you made sure the blackout light switches are in the correct position? take a picture of the blackout light switches in the current position and post it up.
I will have to do that tomorrow. The truck is not here right now. thanks
 

Tbone594

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Hampton, CT
There is no conversion, everything 12v just use the front battery only, 24v uses both. Lighting suggests a problem in the blackout circuit, key issue suggests the ignition switch which the key actuates has moved or was replaced by a wrong one.
Thanks for your reply. I will pass it along to the mechanic. When I first bought the vehicle when I activated the right turn signal the fuel gauge would drop, indicating a bad ground or short some where. Then about a week ago I lost brake lights. He tells me now I have no signal lights at all. Black out lights had been disconnected when I bought the vehicle. The vehicle originated in Texas, then went to a fire department in Oklahoma, where I suspect some bells and whistles were added and subtracted before it went to auction. Would you suggest converting the system to a straight 12 volt...not as any sort of solution but for practical application?
 

Rvitko

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Austin tx
I would keep it stock, personally, it was the 24v system that sold me on the Cucv. Search eBay for 24v mil surp tools or truck driver appliances and you will see all the functionality it adds. It is a very simple system, I think people over complicate it rather than just following the wires and keeping it easy.

The blackout light switch/ relay was what I was referring too. Check that someone didn't simply turn off the lights.
 

Rvitko

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Austin tx
My guess on your gauge/ turn signal issue, someone removed the dash cluster in the past and the plastic sheet that has the "circuitry" has peeled so the contacts for the plug are overlapping, when you switch one thing, power crosses over to something else. I had this problem myself and it seems possessed until you get it sorted.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
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Virginia
I bought an 85 1009. I have no brake or signal lights. When the key is off there is power to the fuses. When the key is turned on there is no power. The mechanic working on it thinks it has something to do with the 24/12 power conversion. Any ideas as to what I should be looking for?

  1. Look for another mechanic. Yours knows nothing about electricity. No, it's not about not being familiar with the CUCV system, it's about being clueless about the basics of electricity and therefore guessing wildly.
  2. Did you test for power at the fuses with a meter or a test light? If a meter, try it with a test light instead. If it's no good with a test light, look for corrosion or other bad connection upstream of the fuse block (possibly the fusible link powering the 12v or the big connection that goes through the firewall).
  3. Check grounds.
 

86m1028

Active member
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Location
Murphy TEXAS
1ST OFF, FIND A DIFFERENT MECHANIC !!!

or better yet learn it yourself.

This system is very easy to understand & figure out.
EVERYTHING you need is in stickies in the cucv forum.
 
Last edited:

Rvitko

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Austin tx
I would be inclined to agree on the mechanic. All this is is a gm square body, over a million made and anyone over 50 with mechanical knowledge should be familiar. Most police cars have a comparable black out system so a decent mechanic should know that too
 

Tbone594

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Hampton, CT
dumb question as im sure you have already looked,have you made sure the blackout light switches are in the correct position? take a picture of the blackout light switches in the current position and post it up.
Turns out the black out switch had been flipped, likely by accident after I left it at the garage. Also even though the right side bulb when tested for continuity looked fine but when inserted into the socket did not work. Replaced the bulb and now I have functional brake and signal lights. I am still left with the situation of activating the right hand signal causes the fuel gauge to drop until it shows empty. This is all a new process to me I do have a multimeter and have been gaining more knowledge of how when and to what purpose to use it.

The good news: No charge from the mechanic. He remains puzzled about as to why the signal light effects the fuel gauge. But at least it's back on the road. The solution is bound to present itself at some point.

Again - Thanks to all for your help.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
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The CUCVs are tricky and sometimes will really make you want to shoot it, but once you get the issues worked out and stay on top of maintenance, they are wonderful.

Don't give up. It is worth it.
 

Tbone594

New member
10
0
0
Location
Hampton, CT
1ST OFF, FIND A DIFFERENT MECHANIC !!!

or better yet learn it yourself.

This system is very easy to understand & figure out.
EVERYTHING you need is in stickies in the cucv forum.
Slowly but surely I am learning the mysteries of how things actually work. I have been using the same garage for years and have always been satisfied with their service, attitude and fees. This is the first time I brought an electrical issue. They did not charge - said I had basically done the research and solved the problem myself. I picked up the TMs for the truck off ebay. They are certainly useful, but here is nothing like personal experience.

again - Thanks for the assistance.
 

Tbone594

New member
10
0
0
Location
Hampton, CT
The CUCVs are tricky and sometimes will really make you want to shoot it, but once you get the issues worked out and stay on top of maintenance, they are wonderful.

Don't give up. It is worth it.
No chance of giving up here. This was a small but annoying issue that has been mostly solved. I have had no formal mechanical training and what little hands on have goes back 30+ years. A lot of re-remembering going on. I would sure like to break the tend of missing that one detail that makes all the difference. I'll get there.
No this truck is here to stay. If nothing else I like the fact that there is actually room inside the engine compartment for you hand to fit.

Thanks for your response.
 

Tbone594

New member
10
0
0
Location
Hampton, CT
I would keep it stock, personally, it was the 24v system that sold me on the Cucv. Search eBay for 24v mil surp tools or truck driver appliances and you will see all the functionality it adds. It is a very simple system, I think people over complicate it rather than just following the wires and keeping it easy.

The blackout light switch/ relay was what I was referring too. Check that someone didn't simply turn off the lights.
Yes. Somehow the switch did get moved while at the garage. That was certainly a big part of the problem. However, interestingly even though one bulbs tested okay for continuity it did not work in the socket. I replaced the bulb and brake and signal lights worked again. The mystery of the dropping fuel needle when the right hand signal is activated has not yet been resolved.
 
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